Logan 820 Write up #1 - Friction Clutch repair

CDBEAM

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Hello All… This is my first post to the Logan section !!!

I am a new Logan 820 owner, Serial # 40926, born in 1946 !! I purchased this machine….Rebuilt. It is not in "museum condition"….but very nice !!!
A few… Idiosyncrasies……Chip pan is backwards, Forward/Off/Reverse switch wired backwards, missing Holding bracket for Headstock Cover….and a problem with the Friction Clutch.

Locking wheels are great to move the Lathe around....BUT....I will likely migrate to the " Hockey Puck " design feet in the near future for most accurate leveling !!

I have had a chance to start to learn the machine. My neighbor( Paul) is a retired machinist….and a great Mechanic / Machinist. He has taught me MANY things….and is most patient !!! I am very grateful !!

In his opinion....which I trust completely.....Ways are great, Headstock was rebuilt ( New bearings), Run-out checked and very good…..+/- .001 @ 12”. Original 3/4 Hp motor - 110 VAC. QCGB all working good and Lead screw good.

SO....yesterday......we just fixed the Friction Clutch. How fortunate it was a simple fix !!!!! The Clutch knob would NOT engage….Cross direction or Longitudinally.

I searched the forum….and found this…….
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/820-logan-apron-question.76592/

Thank you 58A !!

So….we open the Apron Clam Shell up…..Note, Handles can stay attached….just remove ALL bolts you can see.
All gears are in great condition….including the Half-nut !!
We only found that one ….. of the two….very small springs in the inside of the clutch unit had fallen out….and would prevent the clutch washers from compressing properly !!!

SO….put the spring back in….cleaned up the Clam seating lips, applied a very thin layer of GE Silicon Sealant, bolted the Clam Shell together, mounted the unit back to the Lathe and reconnected the Lead Screw end clamp.
Note: One must remove the Lead Screw clamp to slide the Apron assemble off the Lead screw. Used 80W Gear Oil to refill the Apron reservoir.

Works perfect !!! Paul is a genius….and this forum is of GREAT HELP !!!! THANK YOU !!

SO….sorry if I have failed to us any correct names…..I am new to this Lathe Repair business….and I am sure I barely qualify as an Apprentice Machinist….BUT….It is a great feeling to keep this vintage machine ready….for another 73 years of duty !!!

I am very glad I opted for a vintage unit....built like a tank....and with good tolerance....and...it just seems right to give this lathe TLC and more opportunity to continue to machine with purpose and pride.

Just thought I would share my joy and experience !! I did not want another hobby....but am oddly attracted to this passion !! I get it !!

CDBEAM
 

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Welcome -- this is a great place, the Logan group particularly so. For more Logan-specific stuff you should know there is also an old-style forum moderated by Scott Logan himself, was until recently Yahool board, is now at https://groups.io/g/Lathe-List/topics. You should also get your lathe's s/n in Scott's database, a long-term effort to identify the survivors. With that you'll also get your 820's history.
Tim
 
That 80 wt gear oil might not be the best choice for your apron, it may make clutch engagement draggy or slippery, or both. Way too many exclamation points!
 
Welcome -- this is a great place, the Logan group particularly so. For more Logan-specific stuff you should know there is also an old-style forum moderated by Scott Logan himself, was until recently Yahool board, is now at https://groups.io/g/Lathe-List/topics. You should also get your lathe's s/n in Scott's database, a long-term effort to identify the survivors. With that you'll also get your 820's history.
Tim

THANX Tmen...I would luv to find out where my 820 has lived before !!! …. If I understand your post correctly.
Did some additional Rattle Can work this AM....just stick'in with the basic medium gray.111qw

That 80 wt gear oil might not be the best choice for your apron, it may make clutch engagement draggy or slippery, or both. Way too many exclamation points!

OK......What oil do you recommend ?? Easy to drain and refill !!!

CDB
 
There is a copy of the Operator's Manual on the Logan 800 Series in Downloads. In the section on lubrication, it says to use grease on all gear teeth and SAE 10 everywhere else. That specifically includes the apron where it says to remove two set screws (oil plugs) on the front of the apron toward the lower right and upper left (there is a photo with the locations indicated). Inject oil into the upper hole until it drips out the lower one. Then replace both screws.

Edit - According to the parts list for the automatic apron, the lower set screw is actually a 1/8" pipe plug. And the drawings and list also shows a 3/8" pipe plug that must be for draining the apron.

Also, one of the apron drawings indicates that the same apron is used on the 900 Series. The 900 Series manual that we have does not include a parts list so if you have a 900 Series lathe, also download the 800 Series manual for a few parts. I didn't look at the entire 800 Series manual to see what else is common to both.

Note that because of the monthly expense, access to downloads requires Donor status. This can be as low as $10 good for a year.
 
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Well...Thanx !!! My Apron has a bottom Drain Plug....and a front fill plug. I do have a copy pf the owners manual....I missed that part !!!

I will replace with Logan's recommended oil.

As a side note....I want to reverse the direction wires in the F/N/R switch box ( Reverse and Forward are backwards)...I assume this is easy....anybody have a pic of what is inside.

Thanx again,
CDB
 
You're welcome.

There are at least several dozen different switches that you might have on your machine. If you unplug the lathe from the AC mains and remove the cover on the switch, most of them will have a schematic of the switch inside. Assuming that you have a single phase Capacitor start motor (the most common type found on small lathes) you will have to ID the two wires that go to the START circuit in the motor. Then disconnect and swap the two wires in the switch. You might remove the cover plate over the wires on the motor. Usually the cover will have a note on it saying to swap two wires that it will somehow ID in order to reverse the motor. Those two wires plus two or three more will run over to the switch. One wire is usually the safety ground. Common color is green. Two other wires will go to the switch and will be connected to the AC line the same way in both F and R. The two Start wires should be switched one way for F and the other way for R. Those are the two wires that you want to disconnect in the switch and reconnect the other way.

If you have a 3-phase motor (not likely), three wires will be hot when in F or R. Swap any two of them at the switch.
 
THANX . I have a single Phase 110 V Motor. IIRC....the switch was made by " American Furnace " . My other neighbor, Bob, is a Industrial Electrician. I will likely bug him to look over my shoulder. Electrical or Electronics are NOT my strong card.
Thanx, Again
CDB

Note: I keep solvent cleaning/brushing/ Steel wooling, and section by section, I am giving my pride'n'joy a new medium gray coat. So far....Looks good.
 
That's certainly the safest approach!
 
THANX . I have a single Phase 110 V Motor. IIRC....the switch was made by " American Furnace " . My other neighbor, Bob, is a Industrial Electrician. I will likely bug him to look over my shoulder. Electrical or Electronics are NOT my strong card.
Thanx, Again
CDB

Note: I keep solvent cleaning/brushing/ Steel wooling, and section by section, I am giving my pride'n'joy a new medium gray coat. So far....Looks good.

New thought, R could stand for "Rotating Right Direction" and F could stand for " Fearful Direction " as the Chuck can spin of in that direction !! HAHAHAHA
 
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