Machining Cast Iron Dumb Bells

[Allan]

Thanks for all the replies. I would love to use known quality material but my budget is almost non-existent. The other problem is I doubt I can find a local source for cast and if I could the price would be exorbitant, I'm sure. As some folks have mentioned some turn beautifully but some are granite. I didn't know the plastic coating was an indicator of a harder material. I'll have to check that out. As for inclusions, I haven't found any yet.

So, as much as I would like to use known great material, I will have to try a file and relegate them to weights if they are too hard. There is always a wood working project that needs to be weighted down.

I started to make a surface gauge and for the base I used the cut off stub end of a CV joint. It was one of the nicest machining metals I have ever used - except the hardened spline and race area. But a carbide tool took care of that. I don't know what that metal is by SAE grade but I'd sure like to find out. I would use it almost exclusively.

 

[silence dogood]

Thanks for all the replies. I would love to use known quality material but my budget is almost non-existent. The other problem is I doubt I can find a local source for cast and if I could the price would be exorbitant, I'm sure. As some folks have mentioned some turn beautifully but some are granite. I didn't know the plastic coating was an indicator of a harder material. I'll have to check that out. As for inclusions, I haven't found any yet.

So, as much as I would like to use known great material, I will have to try a file and relegate them to weights if they are too hard. There is always a wood working project that needs to be weighted down.

I started to make a surface gauge and for the base I used the cut off stub end of a CV joint. It was one of the nicest machining metals I have ever used - except the hardened spline and race area. But a carbide tool took care of that. I don't know what that metal is by SAE grade but I'd sure like to find out. I would use it almost exclusively.

View attachment 281787View attachment 281786

Allen, I should clarify about the plastic coated dumbbells. It's still a hobson's choice when it comes to the hardness of the iron, First, you have to get past the plastic to see what you got. When something gets covered like that it makes you wonder. One thing that you can try is go to a music store and see if they have an old piano with a cracked harp. The harp is the cast iron frame. Chances are the store will let you haul it away for nothing. You'll have your self some high quality iron and some really nice wood. They do come apart in some what insections, Just ease the tension on the strings slowly. There is a lot forces there. I'm like you, I do a lot recycling

 

[tertiaryjim]

I also picked up a number of cast iron weights of differing sizes for $1 each at a thrift store.
Have only made use of one so far but it machined nicely ( with carbide ) and had no inclusions or voids.
Am always looking for more.
Be green- Recycle

 

[Downunder Bob]

Thanks for all the replies. I would love to use known quality material but my budget is almost non-existent. The other problem is I doubt I can find a local source for cast and if I could the price would be exorbitant, I'm sure. As some folks have mentioned some turn beautifully but some are granite. I didn't know the plastic coating was an indicator of a harder material. I'll have to check that out. As for inclusions, I haven't found any yet.

So, as much as I would like to use known great material, I will have to try a file and relegate them to weights if they are too hard. There is always a wood working project that needs to be weighted down.

I started to make a surface gauge and for the base I used the cut off stub end of a CV joint. It was one of the nicest machining metals I have ever used - except the hardened spline and race area. But a carbide tool took care of that. I don't know what that metal is by SAE grade but I'd sure like to find out. I would use it almost exclusively.

View attachment 281787View attachment 281786

Good choice Allan, CV joints and also axle shafts are a great source of quality hard steel. they usually machine well with carbides, and can be got for free. A local mechanic friend lets me rummage through his scrap bin whenever I'm Looking for some good hard steel. I also use truck axle shafts for larger dia. another scrap I like to find is the hinge pins on heavy excavators, they get thrown out regularly, not as hard but machine well.

 

[NCjeeper]

What do they charge per lb. scrap price? I pay $1/lb for quality steel remnants, but I 'm thinking its a bit high.

We went a couple of weeks ago and we paid if I remember right 35 cents a pound for ferrous and 80 cents a pound for non ferrous.

 

[jdedmon91]

We went a couple of weeks ago and we paid if I remember right 35 cents a pound for ferrous and 80 cents a pound for non ferrous.

You are correct I looked at copy of my invoice


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[middle.road]

I guess maybe look for vintage weights?
There was a company here in the Knoxville area that manufactured weights back in the day.
and now I can not for the life of me remember the name. I keep an eye out for them at estate sales and the thrift stores.

EDIT: found an image. Southern Barbell Co, Knoxville Tenn. No inkling who was the parent company, there were a lot of mfgs around here.
Looks like they might have started out in Richmond VA, and then moved to TN in 1960.

 

[Downunder Bob]

Good sources of quality cast iron. Flywheels off old manual cars, brake drums from old cars, Note discs are usually cast steel. Large gear wheels from old machines even old engine blocks, it all depend on what sizes and shapes you want. Crown wheels from old diffs Larger items can be found at truck wreckers.

 

[Bob Korves]

I am retired from the heavy trucking parts business. One of my former customers has a truck wrecking and salvage yard, fairly close to my shop, and he gives me free reign to dig through his scrap metal bin, which is about 8 x 8 x 40 feet long and can be empty or near full, depending on when the last pick up was. Usually there is way more good scrap metal in there that is usable in a hobby shop than I have room to store. Still, it is a good resource for when I need something. Carrying a bag of doughnuts when you arrive to ask for scrap metal will often open the gates wide open from then on.

 

[middle.road]

I am retired from the heavy trucking parts business. One of my former customers has a truck wrecking and salvage yard, fairly close to my shop, and he gives me free reign to dig through his scrap metal bin, which is about 8 x 8 x 40 feet long and can be empty or near full, depending on when the last pick up was. Usually there is way more good scrap metal in there that is usable in a hobby shop than I have room to store. Still, it is a good resource for when I need something. Carrying a bag of doughnuts when you arrive to ask for scrap metal will often open the gates wide open from then on.

I have some friends with the same. I attempt to stay out of the roll-off but it seems to have an off-world force drawing you to it.
The Brass pins out of older diffs are a nice score.
Very easy to get carried away and overload on stuff.

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