Machining off cross slide nut protrusion (hump) - SB9

martik777

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I can't understand why SB did not design this nut to be flush with the top of the cross slide. It is so annoying not having a flat surface for a height gauge or milling table/attachment. I guess the easiest option to make the nut and set screw flush, would be to machine or file about .020 off the shaft and .050 off the set screw, although that would not leave much of a slot in the screw, it should still tighten adequately. Remachining the conical end of that tiny screw would be too much work IMO. Any one else deal with this?

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Hi Martik777. I replaced that nut about 5 years ago on my SB and thought the same thing so i machined it flush with the top of the compound.I cut the screw slot slightly deeper also. -^^ i also don't like where they put the 0 mark, you have to lean over the lathe to see it. anyone have a fix for that?
 
I just lean over and use one of several small magnifying glasses I purchased off ebay for about a $1. They are very handy for inspecting small parts, finishes, tool bits etc. Make sure you get a glass lens.
 
It's interesting that Hercus, the Australian builder of a licensed version of the SB9, recessed the nut and screw slightly. They also stamped the degree marks all the way around, with zero marks on both the near and far sides.
 
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Ditto on that mirror Jim, I cut approx 1" square piece, added a magnet and it works great!
 
I recut mine flush with the top of my cross slide since i went with the MLA Tee slot i wanted everything flush...Bob
 
I chucked up the nut in my 3 jaw (no 4 jaw yet) and started to face it, then decided it wasn't worth taking a chance on a crash, 5 minutes with a file and it was history.
 
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