Machinist Level???

Thanks for the help guys. This has to be the best place for a beginner like me. I truly do appreciate the help to newbs here. I have one more question. My lathe cabinet(which I really like) has a wooden top. It's 1-1/4" thick plywood sitting on top of the metal cabinet. Will this be a problem?
 
Shouldn't be, unless you do end up fighting with a lot of twist in the bed, and then it only means it will take a while to get it to settle down. The plywood will indent where the leg is that you need to pull down, and periodically you will need to do through the anti-twist actions again. You will start seeing it creep into your work, so you just have to remember that you need to check it with the test turning and re-establish a straight bed. Other than that, I like a wood top under a small machine. It absorbs some of the noise and vibration.
 
The ship floor can move and twist, let this lathe would still cut fairly straight. I think it's a 16/24.
Beautiful lathe, I wouldn't expect any twist since it is a 3 point floor support like the Monarch 10ee lathe. Wonder why it is not used in new lathes.
 
as long as you can flip your level end to end on a straight surface and get the same reading both ways your level is good.
 
If you are looking for levels on Ebay or wherever, be careful of what you are buying. Especially on Ebay, price and size are not necessarily a good guide for quality and precision. The important thing is the accuracy per unit distance. The brand of the level does not tell you. Starrett makes .005" per 10" as well as .0005" per 10 inches. They are not the same, count the zeros. One is 10 times more accurate than the other. Starrett also makes levels more and less accurate than either of those. The other companies do, too. A 12" level may look more manly than a 6" level, but if they have the same stated level of accuracy, they are the same other than size. Size can matter depending on what you are measuring. Too small can not bridge a gap, too big can not fit in many places. I have an import level with an accuracy of .0005" per 10", and it is quite precise, but it is also a pain in the butt to use for leveling machines. It needs to be re-calibrated for each session. If you hold it in your hand for a minute, your body heat will throw it off wildly. You have to wait for a couple minutes to read the bubble accurately. A minor tweak of the feet of a mill or lathe buries the bubble off the end of the scale. Yes, it works, but it is overkill for the job and just too fussy to use for that work. I guess a level with .005" per foot or so would be quite useful for leveling machines that are making parts that will stay in the earth's atmosphere. Electronic levels: Watch the numbers. Resolution, repeatability, and accuracy are quite different things, and you need to understand what they mean and which is being quoted. There are a lot of not very accurate or repeatable electronic levels out there which are being sold as precision levels at prices that are way out of line for what they really are.
 
Thanks for the help guys. This has to be the best place for a beginner like me. I truly do appreciate the help to newbs here. I have one more question. My lathe cabinet(which I really like) has a wooden top. It's 1-1/4" thick plywood sitting on top of the metal cabinet. Will this be a problem?

Sounds like a solid piece of plywood! Just the same it is wood and wood works from changes in humidity, some species of wood more than others.
It may or may not be a problem but you might be able to mitigate the potential in certain ways; controlled humidity, good full coat of PU floor varnish, leaving the tailstock bolt down a bit looser, and maybe others.
May we see pictures of your lathe and cabinet?
 
This pic is before the restoration but right after I got it all cleaned up. I can get more pics if needed. I have all the drawers. The cabinet weighs as much as the lathe

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Thanks, looks like a solid machine! Not so concerned about the plywood now.
 
I have always wondered about using one of the digital angle blocks for a level. I thick sheet of paper will change the reading on mine by about .2
I don't have any idea how accurate they would be compared to a machinist level, has anyone else used them to level their lathe?
 
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