Making "Kant" Style clamps.

Hi Canus,

Did you take my advice and download Qcad ?
If so have you had a play with it yet ?
 
Downloaded it but can't make hide nor hair of it. Will try to find something on line that provides instructions. Have used simple cad type programs in the distant past (mid 1980s DOS based) but am lost with Qcad.
 
Based on your avatar I assume you are running Linux.
 
Hi Canus,

Yes you are correct. I've run Linux since around 1991 - 2. The last windows version I used was 98 ! Even then it was a pain.

Qcad is not difficult at all ! OK some bits can be confusing, but that applies to any software. Can I assume that you have installed it and it is running OK on your machine. If you want we can take this off the forum and use PM, or continue here.
 
BaronJ said:
Hi Guys,

This is a dimensioned drawing, showing the hole sizes. I said previously 8 mm diameter, it should have been 10 mm. Sorry about that. Its only just over a year since I made these.
View attachment 275110

I used M5 counter sunk screws to hold both threaded nuts and the side plates together and made brass cup washers to support the CSK screws.
The central pivot was made from 10 mm round bar drilled through and threaded M5 from both ends before pressing it into a PVC spacer.
View attachment 275111
All the cup washers were turned from bits of brass scrap picked up at the local scrap yard. They were drilled 5.25 mm in the lathe, then placed on a mandrel and turned to 10 mm diameter. I had several bits of brass of different diameters and different lengths. When they were all the same diameter, I put them in the chuck and countersunk the end to the depth of the head of the screw, just under 3 mm and then parted off slices of three millimeter long. Countersunk the next one and did the same again. I did this until I had 24 washers.

View attachment 275112

View attachment 275113
These are the completed spacers and nuts.

At this point you should be able to test fit everything together. The side frames should be a close fit on the pivot points and have very little play.
I said earlier that the nuts were drilled and threaded M8, these nuts were drilled and threaded M10. Which ever size one you use, the bottom anchor will need to be drilled to suit the threaded rod machined end size.
View attachment 275114
This is a picture of the threaded rod used to operate the clamp. The end is turned down so that it is a loose fit in the bottom nut. The turned end is drilled and tapped M5 for the screw that is used to retain it...

I'm going to take a break here. Thanks Guys.
Click to expand...
I am about to attempt to make a pair of clamps as per your excellent posts.
I have just received the laser-cut blanks and will start machining soon.
Quick question - what spacing distance between the 2 pairs of arms do you recommend? I am using your overall dimensions ie 120mm fully open.
Cheers
 
Hi Airbusser,

The nuts for the screw was a simple piece of turned bar with a M8 threaded hole. You need two of these nuts. The spigots on either side were turned so that they fitted into the 8 mm holes in the side plates. You can set the spacing between the side frames to what ever you like as long as you have room for the clamp screw.
Click to expand...

I actually used M10 on mine, originally it was intended to be M8, I forget exactly what the overall width was. I have just measured the inside distance between the sides on mine at 18 mm. Its not at all critical as long as the screws through from the outside don't hit the thread.
 
BaronJ, you haven't been around lately, good to see you posting again.
 
BaronJ said:
Hi Airbusser,



I actually used M10 on mine, originally it was intended to be M8, I forget exactly what the overall width was. I have just measured the inside distance between the sides on mine at 18 mm. Its not at all critical as long as the screws through from the outside don't hit the thread.
Click to expand...

Thanks BaronJ, I will follow your advice.
Any chance of a photo of your completed clamps?

Regards
 
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