Making "Kant" Style clamps.

BaronJ

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Hi Guys,

I know that some of you like projects, and tools ! So I thought I would do a little write up on how to design and make your own "Kant" style clamps.
These clamps are quite unique in so much that they behave very much like a vise. Unlike an ordinary "G" clamp they don't twist when being tightened up, in fact they can exert two or three times the force than can be achieved with a "G" clamp of the same size.

The design is quite flexible. You can make them from various materials, I made mine from steel plate, you could use aluminum or brass, or even plastic sheet material.
This project requires some turning and threading, but little else.

Kant-01.jpeg


The picture above shows the basic layout of the Kant clamp. Notice that all the holes fall on the diameter of two concentric circles.
In this drawing the circles are 22 mm apart. To make larger or smaller clamps just scale the circles. The Odd hole is for a spacer.
You will need to turn this spacer down so that it clears the screw when the clamp is fully closed. The other spacer fits in the knee of the longer side piece.

01-09-2017-001.JPG

This is a picture of the side frames made according to the drawing. The pivot holes, larger ones are 8 mm diameter and the small ones 6 mm diameter.
You need two of each for each clamp. These were made from 3 mm laser cut plate. The original ones were cardboard templates.

02-09-2017-002.JPG

The nuts for the screw was a simple piece of turned bar with a M8 threaded hole. You need two of these nuts. The spigots on either side were turned so that they fitted into the 8 mm holes in the side plates. You can set the spacing between the side frames to what ever you like as long as you have room for the clamp screw.
I drilled each end and threaded for M5 CSK screws.

You also need to make some spacers. I made mine from PVC bar with a short length of 6 mm steel rod pressed through and pressed into the side frame. The laser cut holes were a quite tight fit on the 6 mm rod. But since they are only there to support the side frames it doesn't matter.
02-09-2017-003.JPG

At this point I'm going to take a meal break. I'll continue later.
 
Hi Guys,

This is a dimensioned drawing, showing the hole sizes. I said previously 8 mm diameter, it should have been 10 mm. Sorry about that. Its only just over a year since I made these.
Kant-03.jpeg

I used M5 counter sunk screws to hold both threaded nuts and the side plates together and made brass cup washers to support the CSK screws.
The central pivot was made from 10 mm round bar drilled through and threaded M5 from both ends before pressing it into a PVC spacer.
02-09-2017-013.JPG
All the cup washers were turned from bits of brass scrap picked up at the local scrap yard. They were drilled 5.25 mm in the lathe, then placed on a mandrel and turned to 10 mm diameter. I had several bits of brass of different diameters and different lengths. When they were all the same diameter, I put them in the chuck and countersunk the end to the depth of the head of the screw, just under 3 mm and then parted off slices of three millimeter long. Countersunk the next one and did the same again. I did this until I had 24 washers.

02-09-2017-015.JPG

02-09-2017-012.JPG
These are the completed spacers and nuts.

At this point you should be able to test fit everything together. The side frames should be a close fit on the pivot points and have very little play.
I said earlier that the nuts were drilled and threaded M8, these nuts were drilled and threaded M10. Which ever size one you use, the bottom anchor will need to be drilled to suit the threaded rod machined end size.
02-09-2017-020.JPG
This is a picture of the threaded rod used to operate the clamp. The end is turned down so that it is a loose fit in the bottom nut. The turned end is drilled and tapped M5 for the screw that is used to retain it...

I'm going to take a break here. Thanks Guys.
 
Hi Guys,

Right let me continue.
02-09-2017-021.JPG
This a picture of the end of the screw, the part that runs in the bottom bearing, showing the M5 thread in the end. The CSK screw that goes in here is the retainer for the clamp screw. There is very little force on this screw, it only has to pull the clamp open. The top of this turned down section is a square shoulder. This shoulder takes all the force from the clamp screw when closing the clamp. I did put a thin brass washer on here to prevent binding, which it does well.

21-10-2017-004.JPG
This picture shows the amount that this clamp will open, about 5,3/4" inches without the feet. Also the layout of the parts inside.

21-10-2017-005.JPG
This is just an anotated close up of the clamp screw, the nut and the bottom bearing for the screw. The spacer acts as a stop when the clamp is fully open and just clears the clamp screw when fully closed. There is a countersink in the bottom bearing that the CSK runs in. When the length of the machined part is correct, the clamp screw and the retaining screw have very little play. The head of the retaining screw is hidden just inside the edge of the bearing.

Before I move on, just a word about dimensions ! Very few are really critical, I know of people that have made clamps to my design that have jaws that can hold large 12" inch plus, items. However if you get stuck, well you know what they say ! There are no silly questions, just ask.

I'm going to start a new post covering the clamp jaws and how to make those.
 
No comment up or down... It looks good and I appreciate the effort. I may even make a few "small" ones, for my model building. Never have enough clamps and this type has gotten rather costly. Thanks... ...

BTW, I like the penguin. Look into www.hudsontelcom.com for some "sea stories" about (real) penguins.
 
Great write up. Another one on my project list. Can't wait for the rest.
 
At the risk of stealing a design, the dimensions for all the commercially available clamps of this type are available on line. If you search you can find all sizes, some in metal some in wood. From what I have seen, it is looks right, it probably is right. (I stole that quote from someone). Seems to me the greatest amount of effort will be getting the sheet metal cut out and ready for assembly. The turning and drill / mill work look easier.
 
No comment up or down... It looks good and I appreciate the effort. I may even make a few "small" ones, for my model building. Never have enough clamps and this type has gotten rather costly. Thanks... ...

BTW, I like the penguin. Look into www.hudsontelcom.com for some "sea stories" about (real) penguins.

Hi Bill,

The clamps are quite easy to design and make !
I'll do some notes on the design method.

PS. Thanks for the link.
 
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