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your cutter should be centered top/bottom height
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Matts Precision Matthews 1236
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- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2013
- Messages
- 130
I believe a 20A breaker requires #12 wire. 14 gauge is good for 15 amps.
- Joined
- May 29, 2014
- Messages
- 188
At the risk of coming across as an arrogant butt-head (or worse), I feel compelled to add a few comments. Please treat the following as constructive criticism, and not belittling or making fun of you.
I own a PM 12x36, and before that used a Grizz 9x19 for many years. I understand your excitement and your desire to learn quickly. HOWEVER, (and this is a big HOWEVER)--I feel strongly that you need to SLOW DOWN a bit.
I have watched a couple of your videos, and quite frankly, I was very nervous about your safety. For example: using your fingers to remove swarf (even the aluminum) while still cutting--extremely dangerous. Leaving the machine running while searching for pliers to remove the swarf (instead of using your fingers -- excellent choice) Parting off with the live center in the work.
These may seem like I am picking on you, but I am not--just pointing out a couple of things that jumped out at me.
On one vid, your tool was at least 1/4 inch above the center of the work. Another member pointed that out earlier.
I never observed you checking the parting tool for perpendicular alignment prior to parting the aluminum--it must have been close, because you were successful.
You stated that you don't know what the knobs do--the chart on the headstock does list the settings and the feed rates that those settings yield.
Please, please, slow down a bit and get to know the machine. Then start with the basics and advance gently--adding operations one at a time.
MrPete222 on YouTube (a retired shop teacher) has hundreds of videos covering every aspect of lathe operations. Mostly, they are very good.
If you feel you are ready for threading, I have a short treatise on that subject on my website that I created for the 9x20. It may be of value to you--it is not lathe specific. Here is a link:
http://www.akpilot.net/Threading Setup/Compound Setup For Threading.html
Again, please do not think that I am belittling you--I AM NOT. I really don't want to read a post from you about losing a finger or an eye.
Best to you, & enjoy the new machine
Jerry in Delaware
I own a PM 12x36, and before that used a Grizz 9x19 for many years. I understand your excitement and your desire to learn quickly. HOWEVER, (and this is a big HOWEVER)--I feel strongly that you need to SLOW DOWN a bit.
I have watched a couple of your videos, and quite frankly, I was very nervous about your safety. For example: using your fingers to remove swarf (even the aluminum) while still cutting--extremely dangerous. Leaving the machine running while searching for pliers to remove the swarf (instead of using your fingers -- excellent choice) Parting off with the live center in the work.
These may seem like I am picking on you, but I am not--just pointing out a couple of things that jumped out at me.
On one vid, your tool was at least 1/4 inch above the center of the work. Another member pointed that out earlier.
I never observed you checking the parting tool for perpendicular alignment prior to parting the aluminum--it must have been close, because you were successful.
You stated that you don't know what the knobs do--the chart on the headstock does list the settings and the feed rates that those settings yield.
Please, please, slow down a bit and get to know the machine. Then start with the basics and advance gently--adding operations one at a time.
MrPete222 on YouTube (a retired shop teacher) has hundreds of videos covering every aspect of lathe operations. Mostly, they are very good.
If you feel you are ready for threading, I have a short treatise on that subject on my website that I created for the 9x20. It may be of value to you--it is not lathe specific. Here is a link:
http://www.akpilot.net/Threading Setup/Compound Setup For Threading.html
Again, please do not think that I am belittling you--I AM NOT. I really don't want to read a post from you about losing a finger or an eye.
Best to you, & enjoy the new machine
Jerry in Delaware
- Joined
- May 29, 2014
- Messages
- 188
Great! I'm glad you are thinking about things.
With a center installed while parting, there is a very great chance for the work to flex away from the operator resulting in a pinch on the tool, which frequently results in unpleasant things happening to the workpiece and also the operators underwear. Generally accepted practice requires the parting cut to be as close to the chuck as possible (eliminating the need for the center). In your case, it appears that it would not fit in the spindle bore -- Steady rest, maybe -- Or hacksaw, then facing cut.
With very rare exceptions, virtually everything I have ever read calls for the tool to be exactly on center height.
Good on the previous adjusting of the parting tool. I have recently learned that only a few degrees off perpendicular is usually not good.
Here is another link to my site. This one is also about threading--very old pamphlet from South Bend.
http://www.akpilot.net/How To Cut Threads/How To Cut Threads.pdf
Best to you
Jerry in Delaware
With a center installed while parting, there is a very great chance for the work to flex away from the operator resulting in a pinch on the tool, which frequently results in unpleasant things happening to the workpiece and also the operators underwear. Generally accepted practice requires the parting cut to be as close to the chuck as possible (eliminating the need for the center). In your case, it appears that it would not fit in the spindle bore -- Steady rest, maybe -- Or hacksaw, then facing cut.
With very rare exceptions, virtually everything I have ever read calls for the tool to be exactly on center height.
Good on the previous adjusting of the parting tool. I have recently learned that only a few degrees off perpendicular is usually not good.
Here is another link to my site. This one is also about threading--very old pamphlet from South Bend.
http://www.akpilot.net/How To Cut Threads/How To Cut Threads.pdf
Best to you
Jerry in Delaware
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 4,806
The NEC code and local electrical code describe the required wiring standards in different applications. Although you may see just about anything when it comes to wiring, it does not mean it is safe or acceptable. If you see a washer, dryer, dishwasher on a 20A breaker, it is connected to a 15A receptacle. That you are having issues with the breaker tripping on occasion and the motor making noises on start up are indicators that there is a problem at hand, as this should not occur in normal use. Since this seems to be occurring when the motor is starting, the voltage is probably being pulled down as the motor can draw 4-8X its rated current at start-up. The motor may also not be coming up to full speed for the start capacitor to disengage. This is why the breaker calculators for this size motor usually specify a 25A breaker for 2Hp single phase 230V. A 20A circuit/outlet per NEC should use a minimum of 12G copper wire. On longer runs, it may require 10G when one factors in the voltage drop. Motors come in all types and ratings, suffice it to say, they are not all created equal, and when you take into account the power factor/efficiency the motor could be drawing a lot more current than you think. I often have a good laugh at HD when they talk about a 3 or 5 Hp motor in their vacuum cleaners/ compressors/etc. that can be plugged into a 120V 15A socket.
