Mauser action rust pitting

Unless it will be for cast bullets or other low pressure loads I would not. There are too many important things in close proximity to the chamber.
 
sorry, that's a wall hanger. :(
military ammo would likely break the action (>56,000 psi)

i have 2 FN Mausers, a M1936 and a M1908 that are sweet shooters (7x57)
 
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I don't know if the pitting affects the strength of the action. There are guides on how thick the steel has to be in barrels but don't know if that would apply to the action. Most of the pitting will be hidden by the stock. I would measure how deep the pitting is and how thick the remaining steel is. Then make a decision. I recently read a thread on another forum where they did actual destructive testing of small ring mauser and carcano actions. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181256-Channeling-P-O-Mauser-blow-up-project It was very informative. One thing that they discovered is the weakest part of the actions was the right side the action. When the actions failed the top of the action always peeled off counterclockwise from the right side to the left side of the action.
Probably the thing to do is load up some proof loads (blue pills) and fire them off in a controlled environment where no harm can come to anyone or anything. If the action does not blow apart remove the barrel and closely inspect the action and the bolt for damage.

Or save the hassle and move on. Hang it on the wall.
 
Thinking you could pick up a stripped action and transfer parts.if you go ahead be sure and check for bolt set back..I'm all for saving a action but welding up pits,heat treating would cost more than replacement.
 
The pitting is ugly,but I dont think the visible pitting reduces the strength in any material way......provided there isnt pitting inside the ring,the action is usable.......large ring actions have lots of steel in the ring..........From the ring back is mainly for function,and doesnt affect strength.In a Mauser the ring is multiple times stronger than the bolt lugs,so the bolt is the more important part.......if I wanted to use it,I would simply fill the pits with a high temp filler,and get it coated........however the barrel might not want to unscrew.............if so,cut off ,bore out to about 3/4" and apply a few weld spots to shrink the threads...............................If you tig weld the pits,keep the heat down,and remember tig weld goes funny colours when blued.....even pale green and violet.
 
Looks like something is bent in pictures 3 & 4, where barrel joins action. And is not seated. Mauser barrels seat on the face of the receiver and on the end of the tenon
I agree with others best left to viewing only.
 
I don't know why anyone would consider putting one drop of sweat into a hundred year old relic when there are better platforms to build from.
 
That's like saying don't fix up a 67 mustang, old Chevy.dodge or whatever you like..much better platforms to build on now..but that's not what many want to do..me included.i like rolling blocks.martini..any newer platform might be better but that's not the point..I have several 98 Mauser builds that will not go anywhere until I'm gone.of course none started as rough as the one above..my .02 cents..I like old fords too.
 
I didn't say newer....I said better. There plenty of better Mausers out there, if that's what your'e in to. That one is a turd.
 
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