Metal Stamp Fixture

I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success.
The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down.
Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right.
some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough.

So I decided I would have a go at making a holder that would rigidly hold and space them correctly for marking on round stock.
A couple of years back I made a rotary table ( https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-rotary-table.53051/#post-448014 ) and it would be ideal for setting the spacing just right for each number.

I made some brackets from 1" X 1/4" aluminum stock for the supports and mounted them on the rotary table.

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I made the stamp holder and retainer from aluminum also.

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I wanted a way to always hit the stamp with the same force so a added a 5/16' X 7" long threaded rod for the steel slide hammer to run on. I also added an side screw to hold the stamp exactly upright.

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This shows everything assembled with a the first test piece.
I found that if I drop the slide from the top of the rod 5 times for each number they turn out very uniform.

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Encouraged by the first test I mounted a 3" diameter piece of aluminum on the mandrel.

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This is the result of the second test.

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Now what should I try next? Well right before me was the rotary table itself. I had not put any numbers on it before because I knew they would turn out poorly.
I added some spacers and switched the head around in order to line up the stamps.

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The end result is not perfect but much better than what I could do by hand.
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Thanks for looking
Ray

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I have an update and a question.
When I stamped my rotary table it turned out OK but not real nice. Some of the lines I had cut several years back were not all the same spacing and when I setup the 4 holes for my 3 jaw chuck hub I didn't start on 0 degrees so they were all off by about 5 degrees. I have since been making some machine dials with my CNC mill see here.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-12#post-585846

I disassembled the rotary table and in the lathe recut the outer rim to remove the numbers and lines.
I then moved to the 4th axis and cut the new lines and numbers.
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Much better nice and crisp numbers and all lines in the right places but I still have a problem.
I painted the lines and numbers with red paint and tried to wipe off the excess and still leave the color in the lines. I managed to wipe off all the paint so I went to plan "B".
I reapplied the paint and let it dry for several hours. I then chucked it up in the lathe and sanded off the excess paint. Well that didn't work either as the lines are so narrow even though the paint was still there it was very hard to see.
I cut those lines and numbers off in the lathe and then redid them on the mill as the pictures show.
Right now I plan on leaving them like they are unless someone has some other idea tomake them stand out more?

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
I once filled the difficult to read lines and numbers on a dial with black grease pencil and then rubbed the excess off with a tightly woven cloth, stretched tight. It worked fine, and is easily redone if necessary.
Grease_pencil.jpg
 
I will give it a try.
The lines are only 0.010 wide and 0.040 apart.
I tried an ultra fine marker but it would not fit into line.

Thanks
Ray
 
I used a Sharpie Magnum, covered the whole dial and let it dry. Then looked for unfilled area's and put on more, let dry and then rubbed off with paper towel.DSCN1313.JPG
 
I used a different feed and depth of cut to get this.
I think I will leave it as it is.

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Thanks to all
Ray
 
Nicely done, you could also try shoe polish for filling the lines and numbers. Filling makes a huge difference, if you don't like it a little lacquer thinner will take it right off.
 
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