Metal versus wood bandsaw

MikeWhy

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What differentiates a metal cutting bandsaw from its wood cutting cousin?

My Delta 14"wood bandsaw looks rather serviceable for aluminum and maybe even light gauge mild steel. The bi-metal blades I already have are the same ones sold for metal working. Guides and bearings, check. Maybe a bit light on horsepower, and not set up for coolant.

What else is different for metal cutting?
 
The biggest difference between the two is the SFM or speed of the blade past the material. Wood cutting tooling is moving way too fast and needs to be slowed way down to safely and effectively cut metals. Most folks who convert a verticle bandsaw add a reduction gearbox to lower the speed of the blade while turning the motor at or near peak RPM to salvage the torque that it produces. Many many folks have converted their wood working tools in just this manner. However you should not switch back and forth due to the possibility of fire from hot chips in contact with wood that has been exposed to oils and lubricant. I cannot quote an accurate SFM speed at the moment but consider how slowly a HF horixontal moves the blade across the material when it is vutting mild steel or harder materials. Aluminum pposes a challenge due to gumming in the teeth due to low tooth clearance of the expended chip from the area of the tooth. Also keep in mind that the rule of thumb is three teeth in contact with the material at all times, so thinner material requires more teeth per inch than thicker stuff, especially on aluminum. If you can find a reduction box that would eliminate trying to locate different size pulleys and allow you to return it to a wood working configuration if you decide you need to do that or decide to sell the machine.

Bob
 
Where most folks go wrong is trying to use the same bandsaw for both wood and metal. Metal saws like coolant and chip pans where wood saws like dust collectors.
Just a couple of things to think about, I am sure there are more like running the right RPM's.
 
I used a wood cutting bandsaw for years cutting aluminum and brass up to 1/2" thick for commercial sign lettering. Reduced the speed a bit just by changing the pulley sizes, upgraded the guide assy to a good quality Rockwell, and that was it. Used anything from skip tooth 6 on the thicker aluminum and 18 to 24 tip for the thinner brasses and coppers. No lubricant. Smallest letters I ever free handed were 1" tall Times Roman out of 1/8" T-6 using an eighth in wide blade. Kinda scary for the fingers, but after the hundredth letter or so you get used to it.

After a while the rubber tires get kinda thrashed on the saw, but little scrubbers made from toothbrushes help to keep them clean. Saw is finally getting scrapped cuz I'm tied of rebuilding the upper wheel pivot for the umpteenth time. Don't use it much more anyways, and still have my Delta for wood only. The one I used for the metal was a TWS, and nothing special about it.

-frank
 
What differentiates a metal cutting bandsaw from its wood cutting cousin?

My Delta 14"wood bandsaw looks rather serviceable for aluminum and maybe even light gauge mild steel. The bi-metal blades I already have are the same ones sold for metal working. Guides and bearings, check. Maybe a bit light on horsepower, and not set up for coolant.

What else is different for metal cutting?

I read all the pro's and cons of cutting metal on a wood bandsaw and made the conversion anyway I can cut both wood or metal and have never had a problem after the conversion.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...ndsaw-coversion-made-easy?p=100184#post100184
 
Oh. Ballpark is 2000 sfm. That's not gonna work. Thanks for the guidance.
 
I've used my Craftsman wood saw on other materials. Aluminum is easily cut as it doesn't need coolant, only lubrication. The cheapest stuff is WD40 spray. Use compressed air to keep blade clean. I use a 6-tpi bi-metal blade for 1/2" and thicker alum. Thinner alum can be sandwiched between wood to keep the teeth from tearing.

I tried a finer metal blade on steel but the speed is just too fast. Killed the blade on the first cut. Now I use my Sawz_all for steel.

I don't recommend cutting oil for alum as it really makes a mess inside the saw. Rule of thumb for me is minimum three teeth contact for what ever your cutting. I've been making aluminum flyreels plus fixtures and jigs for my sherline machines with few problems. Steel and aircraft aluminum are totally different materials though.
BB
 
Doing a conversion now myself. Last week I bought an old 14" Delta Rockwell on CL for $200. Jumped right in and started building new ball bearing blade guides. The biggest deal is there is not a lot of room below the table for Carter style guides, but I have things all worked out now.

I will change out the motor with a variable speed DC motor (which I have) or will look around for a 40:1 speed reducer. Would actually rather use the speed reducer, because I can make the pulleys the size I need for the 3 speeds I want.

I now own 4 bandsaws, there is no difference between a wood cutting and metal cutting saw, other than the speed you run it at, and the blade you put on it.

Larry
 
A VFD sounds interesting.

Even though I was doing most of the cutting for the shop on my converted wood bandsaw, my boss had a real Rockwell metal cutting 14" upright with a two-speed gear drive off the motor. Noisy as heck, but it was the factory setup for the saw.

-frank
 
I swapped out pulleys to slow it down and had blades made to cut mild steel. As has been noted. You have to keep the chips out of the works with air or vacuum. These are made for wood, but will do thin steel and aluminum rather well.

http://sawblade.com/ These guys will make the size and type you need rather inexpensively.
 
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