I have sleeves that fit my boring bar holder for my QCTP and they hold the small shanks of these bars very solidly. I suggest you use them with zero radial rake; that means the flat on top of the cutting head should parallel the ground. I also suggest you align the bar in line with the spindle axis.
Stick out or extension on a solid bar like this is not like that of an inserted tip bar; your extension is dictated by the length of the shank (between the cutting edge and the round part that is held in the tool holder) so it cannot be varied. When buying solid bars, keep this extension thing in mind. A carbide bar can go about 10 times its diameter and hold its accuracy. For example, a 1/8" diameter shank can go 0.125" X 10 = 1.25" deep, which is considerable in view of the size of the bar. In most cases, Micro 100 bars will take this into account and a 1/8" bar will usually allow this depth of bore; the shank will be around 1.5" long and the part that is held in the holder will be about 1" long or so. Of course, this varies with the size of the bar but you get the idea.
In use, remember that a carbide bar does not like slamming into the bottom of a bore. As tough as a Micro 100 bar is, it won't tolerate bottoming for long. Therefore, I suggest you always use a carriage stop with these bars when boring a blind/flat bottomed bore.
Coolant is optional but I almost always use it because it alters the chip (tends to produce coiled chips that eject easily from the bore) favorably, while also enhancing finishes and reduces the incidence of a built up edge.
Speeds are calculated as usual. Feeds are adjusted to produce coiled chips, not strings; this feed rate will be faster than you think. Depths of cut varies based on the diameter of your bar; smaller bars require smaller cuts. For a 1/8" diameter shank, I would keep my cuts at 0.010" max for roughing and you can dial in your finishing cuts based on how the tool likes to cut for you. For example, say you dial in a 0.004" finishing cut and it produces a 0.0075" change in ID, then you can rough until you are 0.0075" away from final size and dial in that 0.004" cut and you should come in on size. So, you need to know how your bar likes to cut for both roughing and finishing cuts so you can close into your finishing cut.
There is a lot to this boring stuff. Fortunately, using a solid bar is easier than using an inserted bar and I'm sure you'll sort it out quickly.