Can you braze filler in place and distress the surface to look like a casting?
You beat me to it Bruce.
Great job on the PM #6.
You are very gifted.
I am convinced building these models will make a better machinist out of you.
I made a mistake of ordering the #7. I found I don't like working with such small parts.
My equipment is massive,(this is a family forum) better suited for the #6.
These can eat time as you have so carefully recorded. Maybe when I'm caught up on my to do list I'll try again.
Please keep posting your progress. Very well done sir.
My equipment is massive,(this is a family forum)
You made this task look easy.So I started on the new connecting rod but only got as far as facing the two sides. The next step is to drill and tap the bolt holes, then split the cap with a slitting saw. Since this requires flipping my mill head 90 degrees to the side, I opted to work on some other parts first.
The eccentric ring is the next big part needing to be done. I started with some hand filing to clean up the exterior flash then milled the two faces to size. I had the part sitting firmly on the parallels in the vise but still ended up with 0.003" of non-parallelism in the opposing faces so I think I need to inspect my parallels and vise to see if something is up. Thankfully this shouldn't affect function and I can always scrape flat if needed.
View attachment 359515
I didn't get pictures, but in a second setup, I faced the top of the bridge, drilled the connecting hole and oil hole, and drilled, tapped, clearance drilled, and spot faced the holes for the bolts which will hold the two halves together after slitting.
Next I tried out my new Tormach Slitting saw arbor for the first time on scrap aluminum and steel. The blade is 1/16" thick, 3" diameter, 30 tooth and is dish ground.
View attachment 359517
I got a full 3/4" depth into mild steel using a 1/2" pass followed by a 1/4" pass. The blade has some radial runout but nearly zero axial. The tormach holder is very nice and I suspect the blade itself has runout.
View attachment 359518
The part was indicated flat using a 0.0005" DTI on the spot faces and then the indicator was zeroed on one spotface.
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The blade height was adjusted to zero on the indicator such that the top face of the blade was level with the spotface. The DRO was then set at 1/2 of the blade thickness below zero.
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The slitting saw had no issue with the cast iron.
View attachment 359521
Here is the clearance I was working with.
View attachment 359522
View attachment 359523
A quick file stroke removed the bung of material left by the saw on the top piece.
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And the 2 halves lined up perfectly.
View attachment 359525
Next operation is to bore the precision hole for the eccentric.
I read so many horror stories about slitting saws, but found this to go extremely well.
More to come - Mike
Well if my successes in this project tell you anything, I'd be out of business. Thankfully this is all for fun and learning.my neighbor used to bore out airplane engines on a jig bore. one cylinder a day and a 150k an engine. he also used to run a CNC to machine caps for oil rigs and the part was the size of a car and cost the same as a house. I'm pretty sure both places were bought up and taken down.
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