Milling fixtures for finished rifle stocks...

[HighWall]

I am occasionally using my milling machine to modify factory rifle stocks and was curious about what folks are using to get finished stocks on and off the machine without vise damage but allows precise leveling and positioning. A lot of what I've tried so far is pretty cloodgy and I hate it when I'm in the middle of a cut and can feel the workpiece start moving a little.

Just curious what those with greater experience use. Finished gunstocks are delicate and oddly shaped.

 

[benmychree]

Noting your HM name --- highwall is my favorite rifle, mine is 38 - 55 WCF, what is yours?

 

[BWSmith]

OK,this is a touch "cloodgy" but is dang quick to setup and dial in. Think it's 3" channel? Can measure if you need it.

There's a cpl things that make this worthwhile; cheapness leading the effort. Drill/tap anywhere,and welding on it is easy too.

The opposing jack screws are ridiculously easy to dial in,either centerlines or offsets. There's 1/4" plywood pads that keep the stock off the bttm.... and also are used on the JS (jack screws). The key is to have the JS above the waterline of the stock..... so as you snug them,they also pull/push stock downwards in the fixture.

A surface gage works to set elevation,and by using the pins in the SG base.... the gage will set centerline. I use it with router bits for opening up barrel channels. They've been working fine and are easier(for me) to keep a sharp edge on...and contrary to what folks say about rpm's,have had zero problems running them at VERY low speeds. To the point that in some composites,the slower the better.

I've run a dz or so wood stocks through this fixture(and a BUNCH of plastics)and usually just throw some tape on things to keep from scratching. One nice thing is,the whole fixture pops out and can be moved to a drill press without undo figiting.

Might help someone?

 

[mickri]

More pictures please. I am looking to make a fixture to inlet a stock.

 

[HighWall]

Noting your HM name --- highwall is my favorite rifle, mine is 38 - 55 WCF, what is yours?

I'd have to say .40/65 with a PJ Creedmoor 424gr mould was my most successful. I built up a Meacham action when they first were available. The Bastogne blank for the stock was cut the year I was born. LOL.

 

[HighWall]

OK,this is a touch "cloodgy" but is dang quick to setup and dial in. Think it's 3" channel? Can measure if you need it.

There's a cpl things that make this worthwhile; cheapness leading the effort. Drill/tap anywhere,and welding on it is easy too.

The opposing jack screws are ridiculously easy to dial in,either centerlines or offsets. There's 1/4" plywood pads that keep the stock off the bttm.... and also are used on the JS (jack screws). The key is to have the JS above the waterline of the stock..... so as you snug them,they also pull/push stock downwards in the fixture.

A surface gage works to set elevation,and by using the pins in the SG base.... the gage will set centerline. I use it with router bits for opening up barrel channels. They've been working fine and are easier(for me) to keep a sharp edge on...and contrary to what folks say about rpm's,have had zero problems running them at VERY low speeds. To the point that in some composites,the slower the better.

I've run a dz or so wood stocks through this fixture(and a BUNCH of plastics)and usually just throw some tape on things to keep from scratching. One nice thing is,the whole fixture pops out and can be moved to a drill press without undo figiting.

Might help someone?

View attachment 404333

That is exactly what I was asking to see. It would be great so be able to see some more pix. I have several surface gages but never thought to use them in this manner. I inherited a bunch of machine tools and tooling a few years ago, although the milling machine (PM935TV)I have, I got on my own. Your setup has some of the features we see in the barrel and action jigs for the lathe. Nice.

 

[BWSmith]

Yes,it's plain jane 3" channel. This piece is 16" long. The fast part is that the front action hole is the pivot.....

In use I put the stock in the fixture paying enough attention to stock's finish protection. Using washers,wood,or whatever necessary to get the stock off the bttm of channel. The bolt through action hole does the work of centering and acts as a hold down.

The T jam screws are nice because of their "wingspan".... meaning,by paying attention to the clocking,or direction the wings are.... you can micro tune the forend irrespective of the mill vise.

2 simple machinist jacks set elevation and work peachy. Tigged a cpl 1/4-20 nuts on the outside of channel. Move your mill vise so that the toe of stock is hanging over the end of mill table,but not to where it interferes with crank handle.

Cpl ways of using it,very intuitive so don't need an explanation.

 

[derf]

I do enough stocks that it was justified to build a universal fixture. This is a completely dedicated fixture just for stocks, that I purpose built from scratch. It uses 2 self centering vises and a locator pin to position the stock fore and aft and always in center. There is a secondary fixture that locates the stock upside down for trigger guard and bottom metal inlets.

The stock is positioned with the top of the stock flush with the vise jaws, and the rear screw hole is located on a spring loaded pin. The self centering vises have a floating center that can be adjusted in or out till the stock is centered and then locked. The vise jaws are covered in leather.

My cnc mill only has 18" of x travel so I made the fixture with a base plate that can be slid back and forth to utilize all the travel. The fixture has a dovetail cut on the bottom, with a clamping gib on the base plate. The pin in the center locates the position over several predetermined holes in the base.

The stepped pin (closest) is spring loaded and locates the stock via the rear screw hole pre drilled into the stock. The far pin is just spring loaded to push the stock up to flush with the vise. The thumb screws are to lock the floating anchor of the vise screws.

The secondary fixture mimics the barreled action and is inserted on top of the vise anchors via dowels.
The Z axis depth is zeroed on the top of the secondary fixture so the inlet for trigger guards and such is relative to the receiver and not the stock.

 

[Harry Knutz]

Not as fancy as Derf's but with some fiddling around I can get my stock to work in this fixture I made and it works pretty well, I might do 2 or 3 stocks a year so buying 2 or 3 kurt vices was out of the question, Here is what I made to hold the stocks I do. I have a short mill vice I can hold the butt with if needed. I put stick on foam rubber on the vice jaws and be sure that there is no debris when tightening. I got these Wilton wood working vices pretty reasonably. They are bolted on the side and the bottom through tapped holes in very thick hitch stock.

 

[IamNotImportant]

Not as fancy as Derf's but with some fiddling around I can get my stock to work in this fixture I made and it works pretty well, I might do 2 or 3 stocks a year so buying 2 or 3 kurt vices was out of the question, Here is what I made to hold the stocks I do. I have a short mill vice I can hold the butt with if needed. I put stick on foam rubber on the vice jaws and be sure that there is no debris when tightening. I got these Wilton wood working vices pretty reasonably. They are bolted on the side and the bottom through tapped holes in very thick hitch stock.

If you ever get a chance to check him out, visit with Doan Trevor, i have only been to his shop once.,,,