Mini lathe restoration questions from a beginner

[Alex v.d.H.]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and also kinda new to lathes. I am getting an old mini lathe soon which has been sitting for a few years and gathered some rust. What I'm most concerned about is the small amount of rust on the ways and inside the tailstock taper. How should i go about removing it without impacting the accuracy of the lathe? Is it ok to just sand it away or would that be a bad idea? Also since I'm new to lathes i might as well ask which tool(s)/part(s) you guys recommend getting for the lathe. I already have a test indicator, a few calipers a 20mm micrometer and the lathe comes with a 3 jaw chuck. I'm looking into getting a independent 4 jaw chuck bacause i heard 4 jaws depend less on the accuracy of the lathe. I look forward to your answers.

 

[vocatexas]

Welcome to the madness!

Evaporust is the best thing I've found for removing rust. On machine ways I'd use the gel and cover it with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out.

Just remember that some products are rust removers and some are rust converters. What you want to do is remove rust, not convert it.

 

[Ulma Doctor]

another method is to use phosphoric acid
it is a relatively weak acid that is fantastically suited for removal of oxides of iron.

simply get you PPE (personal protection equipment-gloves, eye protection, long sleeves), some lint free rags/towels, and some phosphoric acid
use in a ventilated area or outside- like any acid don't breathe the vapors
soak a rag in the phosphoric and wring the rag until it is only damp
then rub the affected area until you are satisfied with the result
neutralize with a water dampened sponge or rag
finish with a coat of light oil for rust prevention

aluminum is a bit more reactive, but can be cleaned with the same method
don't let the phosphoric acid dry on a surface, there will be a white phosphate dusting on the part-
that would require the use of more acid to wet the surface again (don't ask how i know that )

commonly here in the US,
we can get phosphoric acid in the form of driveway cleaners as well as Etching for painting, and for use in the soft drink industry.

here is a couple examples,

 

[NortonDommi]

Welcome.
I would suggest using a Scotchbrite pad with a bit of Kerosene and just giving it a good scrub then wash/wipe down with some more Kero on paper towels and then have a good look at it after a sleep and a cup of tea.
Here are a few mini-lathe websites that might be of use: http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm
http://www.mini-lathe.com/ http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/ and the very well known https://littlemachineshop.com/info/business_resources.php?ID=-1975694443&CAT=1 Gadgetbuilder is listed on the Little Machine Shop site and I recommend having a visit.
As to tooling well it is my belief that you can never have enough. What have you got in the way of tooling?

 

[ThinWoodsman]

Also mini-lathe.com (ain't the FrontPage warning cute? It's all just ASCII, man!) for use/maintenance/modes.

Tools: drill chuck, live center for tailstock. Possibly a faceplate or collet chuck for the spindle when you get more into things. I haven't found either a toolpost or a set of tools for the mini-lathe that I consider fantastic - maybe a rocker toolpost with a set of HSS cutting tools (Accusze makes them, 2662-2001 or -2002) and a parting tool.

First thing you shoud make is a center height gauge - basically a free-standing cylinder whose height is exactly at the centerline of the spindle. You set it on the ways and use it to set the height of tools in the toolpost.

 

[T Bredehoft]

Once you have your lathe, and can tell us exactly what tooling you do have we can recommend many more dollars to spend.

 

[eeler1]

When working on the ways or other sliding surfaces, start with the least aggressive method to remove rust. For the ‘small amount of rust’ you mentioned, the kerosene and fine scotchbrite will probably be enough.