Mitsubishi Vfd - Wiring - Can't Figure It Out.

... Do you have the 33 page Installation Guide or the 300 page Instruction Manual? No, I'm not kidding, they can be downloaded and can give you some guidance.
Randy

Hehe, dang if it wasn't on the CD that came with the drive. I hadn't noticed.
Another cup of coffee and some reading coming up! Thanks!
 
VFD is only for connection to a 3 phase motor.

Just to be clear, I do not crimp the ferules mentioned. I pass the wire through the ferrule tube and solder the tip so the solder wicks into the ferrule tube. Takes about 5 seconds, and works fine. Otherwise you need to use stiff solid wire and/or larger gauge. Stranded wire would need to be tinned with solder. The ferules only become square when crimped, spades to a terminal block would also be crimped to the wire, but spades would take up way too much space for all the connections. These round ferrules work very well once you start to use them and are sized according to the wire gauge.
Box of 1000 assorted ferrules for $13 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000pcs-14-...rules-E2518-/111068172490?hash=item19dc2dd0ca
Crimping tool if you went this route for 20$ : http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-25-6mm2-T...re-end-Cord-/151278086106?hash=item2338e067da

Agree drum switch is way overkill, but it can be used as shown. In my mill builds, I use momentary switches for the run (guarded green), stop (unguarded red), a separate direction switch (forward/reverse direction) and an E-Stop. How it is wired/configured depends on the VFD, whatever works for you. Most VFD manuals are many pages to describe all the features, 99% which you probably will not use. The Mit's manual is no difference then many other VFD manuals. After you have done a few, they are all about the same.

I recommend 600V rating wire between VFD and motor, as the VFD can cause breakdown in wire insulation with time. Shielded wire is recommended for longer motor runs, the control wires should not be run in parallel with the motor cable (i.e. tied together). The Mit's is easy to program from the VFD, I had posted a previous link to a video showing this. Computer would work, but you need the software and a connection cable...., not worth the trouble for the few parameters you would change.
Mark
 
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I would submit that the VFDs are easy to setup, but translating the poor translation in the manual is the difficult part. For the most part there are very few parameters that need to be set to get up and running. Most VFDs have 100 or more parameters, but you only need about 5 of them to get going. Most of it is not useful unless you have a special application. If the manuals would give the basic setup in the first pages, life would be much easier. Having to wade through all of the parameter descriptions to setup is just wrong.
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As someone who has worked on VFD's for 25 years in sizes up to 125 HP, I can tell you that the parameters are extremely important to motor life, smoothness of operation, and many other subtle factors. I had two metalworking classes at the university back in 1978, where I learned to use milling machines. I have not operated one since. I am sure that if I claimed that they were easy to set up and get running (by someone knows very little about them) I would get a whole lot of disagreement. I should have stated "difficult to set up properly". But I do agree that they should have a quick start manual like many other machines, since most electrical novices are not going to spend countless hours studying VFD manuals.
 
I got my hands on my first VFD in about 1985 or so, a little smaller than 125HP, I think it was 100HP on a big lumber sorting system. Nobody knew anything about them at that time so I was elected. Still running today as far as I know. In the intervening years I have setup well over a 1000 units of all different brands. The largest single install I've done had about 900 motors from 3 to 10 hp (airport baggage conveyor system, all Allen-Bradley VFDs). My most recent setup was on a 3/4 HP surface grinder for a customer a couple of days ago with a 120v in, 220V out (set at 220v to match the motor nameplate). That was the first time I had ever had my hands on a Teco, it took about 10 minutes to configure, good documentation. In my shop right now I have a 1 and 3 HP GS2 units, one 10 HP Hatachi, and one 15HP SafeTronics, all running equipment. The documentation on the GS2s is excellent, the SafeTronics is good, the Hitachi not so much.
 
Success! Up & running!
I would submit that the VFDs are easy to setup, but translating the poor translation in the manual is the difficult part. For the most part there are very few parameters that need to be set to get up and running. Most VFDs have 100 or more parameters, but you only need about 5 of them to get going. Most of it is not useful unless you have a special application. If the manuals would give the basic setup in the first pages, life would be much easier. Having to wade through all of the parameter descriptions to setup is just wrong.
Very true Jim. I found a video on Youtube, and set the six parameters and pressed 'RUN' and she spun right up.

All the rotations are correct, so I at least got that wired correctly. It is nice to have a diagram to go-by, thanks Mark!
I'm going to post a summary and some picts after I get caught up on the stuff I let slide the last couple of days.

Is there a noob's guide to setting the various parameters? I basically just took a stab at them and crossed my fingers.

Thanks again All! It feels real good to finally have this beast running.

_Dan
 
Some Picts.
I went a tad over board on the low voltage connectors, figured that the rectangle shape was needed.
I made them up before I saw Mark's reply.
The two conduit runs from the head are separated from one another as much as I could get them.
Everything fit into the 6x6 non-metallic box nicely, I was even able to add two outlets one the backside
for the DRO and such.


P1070781r.jpg P1070785r.jpg P1070787r.jpg P1070790r.jpg P1070792r.jpg P1070807r.jpg P1070811r.jpg
 
Wow...This exactly that i was looking for. Thank you very much. Not to hijack the thread, but how would i go about adding the ability to jog? I'm wiring up a LeBlond Regal 17 with a Mitsu 720 VFD. I like having the drum switch for forward/reverse but am willing to forgo it if necessary to get the ability to jog. I'm guessing i could connect STF and STR to momentary pushbutton switches in parallel to the drum?


TIA.
 
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It would seem that the Mits needs both a JOG input and a direction activated at the same time. So SD to JOG and STF for forward or SD to JOG and STR for reverse. You can do this separately from your current controls (parallel), but must either use a dual pole momentary switch for the JOG that connects SD to the JOG and STF or STR separately (as shown below) or use a single pole with logic diode(s). Commonly what is done is to use a momentary push button JOG switch connected to SD, the output goes to the JOG input and a separate connection to a diode which connects to the input to a 2 way switch. One output connects to the STF the other to STR. This allows switching the JOG direction. You might also consider going to a 3 wire control with momentary switches (I use switch guards on the FOR, REV, JOG buttons). Did this for a lathe build and works very nicely. Would also work nicely on a mill.

Mits Jog.jpg
 
The diagram you posted would need to use diodes, otherwise when you operate the R/O/F switch you will always run at jog speed because of feedback to the JOG input. Also the way you have it wired, all the connections will be connected all the time. Need to use diodes or 2 pole switches.
Mits Jog diodes.jpg
 
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