Mitutoyo Tailstock DRO for my PM1236

Very nice installation, Will! What about the seeming lack of access to the quill oilers on top of the TS housing, now covered by the scale? I suppose you can remove the one screw to the quill block, and slide the scale out to reach the oilers. I personally don't like mods that make a machine more difficult to take care of, and try my best to address them during any mod. Laziness often surmounts good intentions...
 
Very nice installation, Will! What about the seeming lack of access to the quill oilers on top of the TS housing, now covered by the scale? I suppose you can remove the one screw to the quill block, and slide the scale out to reach the oilers. I personally don't like mods that make a machine more difficult to take care of, and try my best to address them during any mod. Laziness often surmounts good intentions...

Thanks Bob! I hear ya, I probably should have mentioned that. One of the oilers is no longer accessible but that one is the only oiler on the lathe that I rarely used. Although it did work it never took oil very well, probably because of the tight fit of the quill & no oil groove. I always just squirted oil directly on the quill. More effective & quicker. Same for the bed, I just squirt oil directly on the ways but I do use the carriage oilers if the lathe hasn't been used for a while.

The rear oiler on the TS is still accessible. A few turns of the handwheel exposes it. Also here's a pic of the TS quill fully extended which I never posted.

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Will
I like the mandrel you made. I'm going to save a picture of that for future needs.
 
Will
I like the mandrel you made. I'm going to save a picture of that for future needs.

Thanks. It's basically the same as commercially made expanding arbors but here, even better. Joe Pie has a great video on how to make them along with some extra tricks.

 
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When you shortened your arbor did you have any difficulty and how did you go about it? I have a chuck that I recently purchased an arbor for and it is hardened steel. Not having machined hardened material before what should I know to be successful and not turn my arbor into scrap?

I'm pulling up an older thread here but I thought my question might be beneficial to others.

Thanks,
Mark
 
When you shortened your arbor did you have any difficulty and how did you go about it? I have a chuck that I recently purchased an arbor for and it is hardened steel. Not having machined hardened material before what should I know to be successful and not turn my arbor into scrap?

I'm pulling up an older thread here but I thought my question might be beneficial to others.

Thanks,
Mark

My drill chuck arbors (Bison & Jacobs) only had hardened tangs. They're hard but not that hard. I just cut the tangs off on the bandsaw & machined them to length. They weren't difficult to machine with carbide. Got softer the further I got into the arbor. I used a straight MT sleeve to hold them.


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Most drill chuck arbors are case hardened, not through hardened. Once you cut through the case it should come off easy.
 
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