More threading questions

It s a practice mostly done in North America it seems. Personally I prefer it for it s one egde kind of contact at the anywhere in between 29 and 30 degrees bit other reasons more so.
It s how I was taught first off. I can get in a rythym with the two handles to work with and as stated earlier it gives me a chance to clean a ragged thread or something by infeeding with the crosslide for a .001" or less changing the position of the cutting tool laterly somewhat.
Slow is safe but for finish at times not too good so with this I have found it gives me a chance to clean them up a bit.
You Don t need no stinking dro either! I do like mksj set up though! Still wizardry for me. Set your handle with the weight on the right side. Zero out and from here on my hands stay on two of three things. My dials and the split nut Or machine is not spinning as rule to myself when threading.
 
Electronic stop. This works well for threading, in particular at higher speeds or if you do not do it often to get the reflexes down. The repeat accuracy surprised me, I use a high speed sensor with a 8 mm sense range that is incorporated into a low voltage relay system. You are still limited to around 450 RPM below around 18TPI due to the carriage travel once the sensor is tripped, recently I have been using a sensor with a 12mm range. The half-nut is left engaged through the threading process. Some larger lathes, have a mechanical stop system for threading, the 10EE and Hardinge HLV-H also had an optional stop system.
 
You learn something new every day. But I wont pursue it. Life would be too boring .Seriously though that is quite impressive. I wasnt aware a vfd shuts a motor dead.I wonder if a bigger chucks inertia would become a problem. ?
 
.I wonder if a bigger chucks inertia would become a problem.

When I was first setting up my VFD for my current lathe , I set the stop speed a little to quick and , well , it started to unscrew. 8 inch bison 3 jaw , kinda heavy :) (well heavy enough to be scary if it gets moving when not attached to the lathe) :laughing:

Stu
 
This topic can get heated. And has been gone over to death. And IMHO some of the stuff I read is fake news. Just thread the way that makes you happy and works on your lathe. For me personally, I thread straight in. I DO NOT get any bent parts from threading. I DO NOT have any problems threading coarse or fine threads. And I LIKE how the thread stays on point and does not creep to the left (if you used the compound), I like this a lot! For me no compound is needed for threading. EXCEPT, if I’m catching an existing thread, then I will use the compound set a 90°…Dave
 
This topic can get heated. And has been gone over to death. And IMHO some of the stuff I read is fake news. Just thread the way that makes you happy and works on your lathe. For me personally, I thread straight in. I DO NOT get any bent parts from threading. I DO NOT have any problems threading coarse or fine threads. And I LIKE how the thread stays on point and does not creep to the left (if you used the compound), I like this a lot! For me no compound is needed for threading. EXCEPT, if I’m catching an existing thread, then I will use the compound set a 90°…Dave

Yeah I totally agree , their are more than one way to do it and people should do the one they feel comfortable doing. Lathe rigidity, thread tool grind and or tool holder, amount of hang out on the tool, set up of any stops being used. They can all be a personal preference and so long as you are ending up with good threads then the method you are using is ok.

Stu
 
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