More torque

Is there a reasonable way to squeeze more torque out of the stock parts?

So the short answer is no.

Hi Shawn I just read the entire thread and came to a much different conclusion.

To me it sounds like a number of very reasonable ideas and the first few I'd consider "low hanging fruit"; stuff that's just worth doing for every machine just to add longevity.

1) use sharp tools,
2) check the power to the machine to make sure it's not getting "choked" by long runs and wrong gauge wire,
3) change the pulleys/belts to up the torque if you can sacrifice the RPMs
4) upgrade the motor

I would also add: mind your speed, use cutting fluid when appropriate, lock any gibs not required for this cut.
Try to stack every little detail in your favour, especially with smaller machines.

More info on the machine would also help folks with a similar unit compare results.
What make and model of mill, what HP motor? What tool and what material?

-brino
 
There are guys installing motors and controllers from used tread mills. Do an internet search if you are interested. They are a lot more powerful but then another weak point may show its ugly head. I've drilled up to 1 1/16" holes in aluminum and cast iron with my mini mill using Silver And Deming drill bits. It takes time to step up to the large drills. I keep my drills sharp and have not had a problem stalling the mill. Sharp drill bit, good cutting oil and drilling the large holes >1/2" in steps works for me. You give up speed and convenience with the small machines unfortunately. Check your brushes for defects also. I've seen some brushes that weren't radiused to fit the armature cause low torque.

Roy
 
It's the busy bee cx605. Same as the harbour freight mini mill, or x2 mini mill. I believe it's 300 watts. Stock motor. The bit wasn't in the greatest of shape, the machine had been used for several hours, so maybe overheating overload circuits. It was in low gear. Electrical feeds are not the issue. If anything at all in that area is the electrical cord provided with the mill. Could be a higher awg.
All in all, I think I was just surprised how quickly the controllers overload kicks out. I realize it's not anything close to a medium duty mill, and shouldn't expect anything close to the power... I'm still learning about this machine. Understanding it's limitations.
I suppose I was looking for someone with some kind of info on whether or not there is a potentiometer on the controller that could adjust the overload kick out. But maybe it's better I don't modify it...

I think I'll add the power feed to this machine and probably stop there, as far as upgrades go. It's clear I need a bigger machine for my expectations. I don't care for limitations. I don't like being held back by something. I want a machine that will do whatever task I need of it. But this was what needed to happen. If I started with a powerful machine, who knows, maybe I'd chop my arm off cause I didn't understand it's capabilities or respect it's power...
Besides, I really need to save up some money now and buy a proper mill vise. This drill press vise is awful. It's crooked 6 ways from Sunday! And constantly rigging up the clamping set is time consuming.
 
Hey Shawn,

The page at: http://www.busybeetools.com/products/milling-machine-mini-craftex-csa-cx605.html
states:
It features a 1/2 HP motor and has a maximum milling capacity of 5/8" and drilling capacity of 1/2".

I'd expect a little more than what you're seeing from a 1/2hp motor.

My little Jobmate 55-5901-6 drill press has only a 1/4hp, 2.4A motor and I would expect it to drill 1/4" holes in steel.
(I'll try to test it for sure tomorrow)
I'd want to run that drill about 1200 rpm, but given the pulley steps I have choices between 1100 and 1450 rpm.
The lower rpm should give slightly higher torque.

-brino
 
Sharp bits for sure, but as Tim the tool man always said, you can never go wrong with " MORE POWER ". I know, but what could possibly go wrong. Seriously though, sometimes too little power, is more problematic than too much. Mike
 
Also highly likely...
that the drill is dull.

Have you looked at the two support lands just down from the cutting lips? When someone pushes a dull drill bit, it breaks down the support lands - that leading edge will be smaller than the lands further up the drill bit. When the bit is resharpened, it will start cutting fine, but it is cutting a bit undersize. Then when the full size portion of the drill enters the hole, it will bind resulting in poor performance of the drill bit, lots of heat and require lots of torque (further damaging the drill bit). The remedy is to cut the drill back to where it is full size and repoint the drill. Of course a better solution is to stop drilling when the drill bit starts to dull and resharpen - then just a quick touch up and you are ready to go again.
 
The other question that has not been asked is: Is it wired for the correct voltage? Maybe wired for 230v and running on 115v?
 
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