Motor Capacitor Replacement ?s

I've seen proposals to DIY a non-polar capacitor using caps and diodes, but I doubt they are actually manufactured that way.
My point being that motor start and run caps are not electrolytic types but simply oil dielectric/foil construction.
Some may be electrolytic but I would say most are not.
 
Lots of good points and we do not need to sweat the details. Typically single phase motor start capacitors are electrolytic non-polar because of the uF size and voltage, other types would be too large. Also because the start winding is only 1/2 the phase you sometimes see the capacitor voltage rating of 125VAC and not 250VAC. But I also have single phase motors that use a single start/run capacitor that is a non-electrolytic (typically a non-polar oil type). Non-polar electrolytic are designed typically to pass AC voltage/signals and the construction as I understand it is two serial back to back electrolytic capacitors in the same housing, although I do not know the exact construction. They do not have internal diodes, but the construction is such that it is modeled with two diodes. The takeaway message is that in an AC system the capacitors/ratings are very different between AC and DC voltages, so that in an AC system one needs to specifically use a capacitor for the AC voltage rating. When a single phase motor often does not start and just hums, (excluding a short) the start capacitor typically fails, in particular with repeated start/stops because of the thermal heating. One reason why I recommend 3 phase motors in mills and lathes being turned on/off frequently. Run capacitors are usually oil filled or may be solid non-electrolytic types. The quality of the capacitor plays an important part of its longevity, also how long it has been sitting around on the shelf. Old electrolytic are exactly that, old and prone to failure. On VFDs sitting on the shelf, they recommend powering them up at least once a year under no load to reform the electrolytic capacitors.
 
I stand corrected. Aluminum electrolytic capacitors above 20uF or so that are used as motor start caps are bipolar....non polarized. There is precious little information to be found online in terms of internal construction, but I did manage to find a fairly detailed pdf that gets down to the nitty gritty on the construction of these devices for anyone interested. The file is mostly about polarized aluminum caps, but there is one sentence near the beginning that explains how non-polarized caps are made (just under fig.1-1). Whereas polarized caps have one of the two foils with an oxide layer the non-polarized variety have oxide layers on both foils. If you'd ever cut one of these apart, as I have, you'd never be able to tell the difference. And since the foils are wound one atop the other, the internal connection would be in series, not parallel as I had assumed. True we don't need to sweat the details, but I live for this kind of stuff. Another piece of the big puzzle in place. It's sickness really. lol

https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/electrolytics/tec1.pdf
 
An AC guy told me that the new motor caps are all junk. He says they changed the design due to environmental regulations and that if you can find older caps they are better. Is there any truth to this? Is this about PCBs?
Robert
 
They don't seem to last as long that's true- but then most all of them are made offshore also- all the old US brands are gone
 
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