Motor City motor

[Diecutter]

I just cracked open this motor that is spinning my "new" diy mill nearing the build finish line. It's what was on hand so I used it to cut the slots, etc. to power the mill. What are your thoughts on cleaning it up and using it until I can score a 1 or 1/2 hp motor to spin the ER20 spindle? Check out the nameplate. Packard/GM . It's a dual speed 1140/1725 washing machine motor rated at 1/3 hp, but it shows 6.8 amps or 816 watts on the nameplate which I always thought was about 1/2 hp. Also, it has bronze bushings with felt reservoirs instead of ball bearings, and is starting to squeal. Is this a deal killer? What are your thoughts on this motor?

 

[markba633csi]

Historical artifact

 

[hermetic]

Its probablt squealing through lack of lube, pretty standard fractional HP single phase motor, clean the centrifugal switch contacts, lube it up and give it a go, you have nothing to loose!

 

[WCraig]

The way things work, if you really need a motor, you'll have a tonne of trouble trying to find one. However, if you clean and lube that motor, you won't be able to get out your front door for all the free motors that follow you home. Maybe.

The only immediate concern I'd have with that motor is if chips can find a way into the openings. Bad/exciting things could happen!

Craig

 

[Bob Korves]

That motor is plenty adequate enough to drive an ER20 spindle.

 

[Diecutter]

Thanks hermetic. Lack of lube--check. Burned contacts--check. Lots of sawdust that smoked up the shop when I plugged it in -- Wait, that was supposed to be a secret. To Bob Korves. Appreciate your straightforward assessment. WCraig, Yes sir, I am well aware of that cosmic law and it's corollary; sell something and you will desperately need it within a day.

 

[WalterC]

Once it squeals, the damage to the bearing surface has been done. You can oil it and try it, but it may not run right or last. But that also amazes me too. I've had motors with bad bearings run for years off true and others just won't cope with it.

 

[rock_breaker]

While you have it dis-assembled measure the bushing areas and make some new ones to re-center the armature. That's how this all got started in the old days.
Have a good day
Ray

 

[john.k]

The bearings are oilite...sintered material......soaks up oil.....dont use solid unless you want to put up with a drip feed oiler.......small motors generally used sintered bushes for quietness....and price..............cheap ball bearing motors make a huge racket for indoor use.........I would (A) test the motor for electrical properties ..*,(B) if OK , check bearings for clearance,if OK rough up the glaze on the bearings with a sharp scraper...not sandpaper,(C) saturate the bearings and felts with light oil.......not car engine oil.......hydraulic oil...(D) assemble motor ,electrical test again ,if OK fit to machine..........*(test for continuity, shorts ,insulation values ,earth to winding resistance)

 

[Diecutter]

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I did overhaul the motor and it works great, at least for now. But I saw a 1hp tefc motor on ebay for a good price and bought it. It's now operational and runs fine on the mill. I'll post a description of the completed mill ( under member builds/DIY knee mill build) as soon as my milling vise arrives to complete the project. The motor city motor will find a future life on another of my projects.