Motors for an Older Craftsman Table Saw.

yendor

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I have a Mixed Shop.
Woodworking & Metal working.
This week I was cutting some parts on my table saw for a current project when it suddenly decided to just BUZZ and not run.
The Motor spins freely by hand.

I've done the basic internet research and will over the weekend look into both the Start Cap and Centrifugal Switch.
I also fully expect to find it packed full of sawdust as I can see some in the vent.
NOTE: I do stick a Stubby Vacuum Tool up to the vents frequently which is probably what has saved me so far.

But none of that is why I'm posting here.
It has a 1 hp 3450 rpm motor 110V 1PH
I've heard that Craftsman overstated the HP of there motors by a substantial margin.
I've always thought the saw could use a little more power as it slows down cutting anything thicker than a 1" thick anything.
Try to rip a 2x4 and you have to feed it like a baby. (and YES I have nice Sharp Carbide Tip Blades Several in different tooth combinations)
I am curious as to "IF", I find it is not easily fixed and need to replace it if the larger motor Mfg's overate their motors to the same extent?
IE: LEESON, BALDOR, DAYTON etc.
And all things equal would anyone here think it would be reasonable to upgrade to a 1.5 HP Motor TEFC, to keep out the saw dust, and add a little power.
I have found that motors that fit the spec's are NOT Cheap. $250 - $400.
Also I do have access to 208 so "IF" I do have to swap it out I will likely wire it all for 208.
Does that add any Real Power to the party or is it just mostly just cooler/smoother running?
I don't use if enough to make a noticeable difference in the electric bill.

Any & All Thoughts accepted.
 
Wiring for high or low volts makes no difference in a motor's performance, the voltage on the motor's coils is the same either way, the coils are in parallel or series depending on the connections. The only advantage to the higher voltage is that you can use smaller wire for the connections. Any of the brands of motors that you mention will give you honest horsepower, the Dayton will maybe be the cheapest, because they are cheaply made, Baldor is perhaps the best quality.
 
For what it's worth I have a 1.5 hp motor on my Unisaw. It cuts everything I throw at it, 8/4 maple is fine. I only use thin kerf blades which does help reduce the load.
 
I think Marathon has a pretty good rep also. Grainger used to carry a wide range of motors, but Ebay might be cheaper. I've heard good things about some of the Harbor Freight higher-end motors. Buy once, cry once applies to motors too :)
-Mark
 
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I've done the basic internet research and will over the weekend look into both the Start Cap and Centrifugal Switch.
I also fully expect to find it packed full of sawdust as I can see some in the vent.
I would bet the start capacitor has given up the ghost--they have a limited life. The good news is that they are usually inexpensive. The old cap should have markings for microfarads and voltage and a motor repair shop can supply a replacement. Often for less than $20.

You don't say how old your table saw is. Older machines have more honest horsepower ratings. The amperage rating of the motor is a good indicator of how much work it can actually do. A 3/4 HP motor likely has an amperage rating in the 11 or 12 range.

BTW, check the belts and pulleys while you have the saw apart. Belts get worn and glazed and will limit the amount of power that gets to the saw blade. Pot metal pulleys can get wallowed out and do the same.

Craig
 
I have a Craftsman 10" contractor saw (the kind where the motor sorta hangs out the back) and have had trouble with one of the pulleys slipping on the shaft. Last time I worked on it I ground a better flat for the set screw and locktited it. I seldom use it but no trouble since. Worth a check.
Aaron
 
I had time to look into the issue over the weekend.
And I am SAD to report I will NOT be getting a new 1.5 HP upgrade.

As expected it was pretty full of saw dust.
For some reason the engineers at Craftsman thought it was a good idea to put an OPEN Fan Cooled Motor in a Table Saw hanging out the back, right in the path of a major dust storm.

I had moved about 3 years ago and had to strip down the saw to move it and I had thought I had done a pretty good job of Vacuuming out the motor at the time.
The new shop has a 100% improvement in Dust Collection so I suspect very little was added to the insides of the motor since I moved but I have had the saw since the late '70's so time had it's chance.

When I opened up the motor the centrifugal switch was so packed with saw dust it couldn't move.
The one thing I'm surprised about - is why didn't it catch fire, although I am grateful it didn't.

A lot of vacuuming and brushing out with a tiny acid brush and it's good as new.
I will be vacuuming it much more frequently now, but I had been looking forward to a good reason to do the 1.5 hp upgrade.
Oh well maybe - it will still give up one day.
 
While the belt is off, verify the arbor spins freely. The bearing replacement is cheap and easy.

Carefully align the blade parallel to the miter slots. A bit of misalignment here makes for a frustrating cutting experience.

The Craftsman rip fence doesn't always clamp up parallel to the blade. Takes seconds to measure from the front and rear of the miter slots.

Replace the V-belt with a notched/cog belt. They bend easier around the small pulley on the arbor.

Check the side-to-side alignment of the drive/driven pulleys. Even a small bit off or twisted will absorb horsepower.

Since 220-volt is available, rewire for that and use a larger gauge, good quality wire lead and plug. Every bit helps.

Look at the clamp bolt on the front of the trunnion. I made a matching clamping bolt for the rear. The design of the Craftsman trunnion/motor mount puts a twist on it. If one wants the alignment as perfect as can be for ripping, use a machinist's square to make the blade perpendicular and then clamp the trunnion both front and rear.

Jack Vines, used those saws forever.
 
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I have my Dad's Uncle's Craftsman table saw (gold paint era- early 1970's?) that still does all I need from a table saw. I got a 1hp 110v Horror Fright motor on it that does the job as smoothly and quietly as the original. It's not a sophisticated tool, and the belt drive makes takes up any perceivable wobbles and vibes. @Packard V8 hit it square with the tip about setting the fence.
 
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