Mount myPM1340GT

[waverly]

Well there's been a lot of wasted time missing contractor, etc. My shop was supposed to be completed last June, but, if a frog had wings. Well you know.

Anyway It's done enough to move my lathe from storage to my new shop. I had two 20"x20" concrete pads added 4 inches high when the slab was poured. There is rebar, and wire in both. I'm trying to decide whether to bolt it down or put it on adjustable leveling pads. One of my friends( a retired machinist says bolt it down, but I've been curious about the leveling pads. It's 220 single phase. Threads have always been a little rough, but they work. I've never had the time to chase the problem, but I will after it's moved. Could be operator error, tooling problem, or a vibration thing. Lathe has been in storage for 14 months. I'm moving it next Saturday.

Right now I'm looking for input on getting set back up on stand and mounted.

Any and all input will be appreciated, Thanks in advance Waverly

 

[GL]

If you are using the factory stand, there are several threads about harmonics at certain rpm's. This could be an issue for threading. What I saw was the top plate on the head end of the base isn't stiff enough. I reinforced the top plate, inside the stand, with 3/8 plate both plug welded and to sides and ribs to that plate and sides to stiffen things up.

 

[mksj]

I would suggest just using solid feet not direct bolt, the S&W swiveling leveling feet are often used. The base I believe is a 1/2 thread, but needs to be chased with a 1/2-13 tap as the cabinets are ~12 pitch thread. The newer cabinets are heavier and have six mounting feet, they are much less prone to vibration nodes and flexing of the cabinets seen in the original cabinets. All machines will exhibit some vibration nodes, in particular when using the variable speed on a VFD drive. If you are in an earthquake area, there are pros and cons as to solid mounting to the floor. Lathes also have a high center of gravity so can topple over easily. Do not use soft mounts or anti-vibration leveling feet as they will settle and change the bed level.

FYI, I had the original cabinets on my PM-1340GT so direct experience, others tried bolting them to the floor and it did not improve the stability because the cabinet still flexed. I ultimately put 1/2" steel plates on the top and bottom along with 6 feet, in addition to bracing between the cabinets.

Steel Level-It™ (Stud Style, Inch) | S&W Manufacturing

www.swmanufacturing.com

 

[waverly]

Well it's been a couple of weeks, but my lathe is in it's new home. The pads are 4 inches high and now I will not be stooped over after working on it. My shop is a blank canvas. We have a little painting left to do in the back room(man cave). It's been a long year and a half since the lathe was even turned on. Sorry contractor, go figure, but I'm finally close.

I used concrete anchors to mount it, although it's still not tightened up. I'm going to give this a try before I do anything else. Now if I could only find my box of shims (they are in one of many boxes) to get the machine leveled up. It's very close, but does need a little tweaking. If the concrete anchors don't work then I'm going to reinforce the stand with 2 inch channel. I have still not put the center support in yet. MKSJ I love your stand, but I'm not sure anything like that would work with the pads I have it on. The guy that helped me move it(he moves heavy equip. for a living) made a 6 ft. welded aluminum channel with a block, and chain hoist to get it out of the way if needed. It spans 4 ceiling joists and picking it and sliding it down the channel is a one man job. Pretty cool.

After I get it level I'm going to change fluids, and lube everything up before use. Then I'll work on vibration or any other problems I find.

Thanks for the replies and ideas guys. stay safe.

Waverly

 

[Janderso]

Now that's a shop! Cinder block and all.
Well done sir, you dog.

 

[bretthl]

I don't believe the shaking is inherent to the PM1340 lathe. I get no shaking at all speeds when running without a chuck installed (I am still using the 3 and 4 jaw that came with the machine and the stand without modification). At any rate it is annoying.

 

[waverly]

Now that's a shop! Cinder block and all.
Well done sir, you dog.

It is cinder block with concrete and rebar. That room is 14x24, and my man cave room is 12x24. We had to attach to house because of the location of the addition. So I go down 3 steps into garage and into 5 ft. hallway(part of addition) and into my shop. We added a total of 764 square ft. There is a cassette type mini split in each room. There is also a set of steps (in lathe room) going up to a floored attic. We left attic floor open 2 ft. from edge so hvac could heat and cool it. It was 89 here yesterday and a fan at top of steps made it very comfortable while is I was unpacking boxes. We are sheltering at home during this mess.

I have another lathe a SB1001 8x18 also that is not set up yet. We've sealed the floor since I took that pic. I have room for a mill, and other equip. as I see a need in the future. I'm 65 in Jan. and going to cut back to 4 days a week. This is my retirement present from my wife.(I'm a lucky guy) I already had the lathes, but I do see a mill later this year or early next year in my future. I have 4 240 outlets in the front room.

Thought you like to know the particulars on rest of my he-cave.

Thanks Waverly

 

[7milesup]

IF you don't mind me asking, what brand of mini-split did you go with? I need to put one in my shop for this summer.

 

[Bamban]

Sorry, answered the wrong thread

 

[waverly]

IF you don't mind me asking, what brand of mini-split did you go with? I need to put one in my shop for this summer.

We went with 1 of these in each room. They are LG 1ton units. There is only one compressor outside for both units. Unlike dual head mini splits these can be on heat or cool individually. There is a separate control for each. We also have a Mitsubishi ( your typical looking mini split)unit in finished room over garage(she cave).