Mounting a bench lathe

Alcap

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This is my first post so just want to thank everyone here for such a great web site ! I bought my first lathe a few weeks ago , Chinese one that appears to be the Smithy AT300 but with no milling head , just a plate where the head would sit . Right now I have it sitting on a home made wooden bench that was used for a AMT wood lathe . I plan on putting together a steel one from some kind of electrical equipment , made from 2x2 angle , it has to be shortened in width to fit my very small basement shop , but it will still be 24" x 42" when done . Not sure how what I'll use for a top yet but I do have a large galv. pan that was sold as a drip pan under vehicles . I didn't see any mounting holes under the tailstock end so I would think neither at the headstock . The Smithy manual said you could use the carrying bars on each corner to hold it down , which I might do . Anyway the bottom of the lathe looks to be just cast , should I try some epoxy to smoothen it when mounting or semi hard plastic ? Open for suggestions , thanks Al
 
Hi Al, you see no mounting holes at all? Are there protrusions or lugs? I haven't examined the bottom of a Smithy but hard to believe they didn't provide some way of fastening it
Mark
ps I wouldn't worry too much about the finish underneath, you may have to use shims to level it though
 
As far as a base for the lathe is concerned, I've had good success with a double thickness of ¾" MDF, glued together with whatever wood glue you like. You can use a ¼" or ⅛" roundover bit in a router to smooth the edges, then give it a coat of shellac, varnish or paint to prevent spills from soaking in. Be aware that the "end grain" of the MDF is tremendously thirsty, and might well take a couple of coats.

I've used automotive-style drip pans for a couple of tools. Really like them! They're inexpensive, and if you wish, you can seal around the base of the tool with silicone or caulk to keep fluids/oil/swarf from crawling under the tool or seeping down through the mounting bolt holes - once you figure out where to put them :)
 
Just to add to the knowledge base: MDF= medium density fiberboard
 
i will look again under the lathe to see if there's any threaded holes . I reworked the steel stand today ,because I need to take it in sections to get it in the basement I cut it to width then borrowed a hydraulic punch to put 1/2" holes through the steel will use bolts to put it back together , also will need painting before a top and drawers/shelf installed , the mdf could be 4x thickness from a 4x8 sheet . Have to see what Home Depot carries .
 
Get an old metal desk. They are often dirt cheap to free and will have drawers, leveling feet and a top that is usually impervious to oil. There are several threads on here that talk about the virtues of using a metal desk for a bench top lathe.
 
Get an old metal desk. They are often dirt cheap to free and will have drawers, leveling feet and a top that is usually impervious to oil. There are several threads on here that talk about the virtues of using a metal desk for a bench top lathe.
I'll agree in a general way. Steel desks are indeed nice and sturdy. But the height of a desk is a bit low for a machine tool. However, you can add a bit of height with a relatively modest platform of steel or lumber (2x boards on edge, for instance) below.
 
Using a steel desk would have saved a lot of work but my workshop is tiny . 24" deep and 48" wide would be the limit . The metal stand I found fit my space , being 6" shorter at 42" and now cut down to 24" wide . I never thought about height so I'll need to see if that will need some kind of blocks or risers .
 
I’m not sure where you are located, but in my area a sheet of 3/4” mdf is up to $55. Personally, I’d spend $100 more and get a hard maple benchtop from Grizzly. I have these tops throughout my shop and the are very nice. Definitely more rigid than mdf, and also won’t absorb the inevitable oil spills like mdf will.

 
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