- Joined
- Jan 28, 2020
- Messages
- 192
In my inexperience regarding metal swarf + power strip, I enjoyed a couple instances of fireworks.You might want to move or cover your power strip.
Last edited:
In my inexperience regarding metal swarf + power strip, I enjoyed a couple instances of fireworks.You might want to move or cover your power strip.
It's interesting for me to see what you did. Thanks for the photos.Well I think I am “done” with my lathe stand. Took way longer than I expected but I learned a lot. The mill stand needs steel plate and then it should be about “done”.
If I had to do another I might do a few small things differently but generally I am happy with it. Thanks to Karl for his idea and support
My first uses of my Sherline mill was to drill and countersink the holes in the steel plates. Later, I used the mill to bore 9/16-inch diameter holes at the ends of rails when I changed to anchor fasteners, and to mill the ends of rails after I roughly cut them to length using a hacksaw. 8020.net supplies rails in whole-inch lengths, but I needed some rails that were not whole-inch lengths, for the mill base.Finished the Mill, time to start to actually learn these tools now
In my inexperience regarding metal swarf + power strip, I enjoyed a couple instances of fireworks.
It's interesting for me to see what you did. Thanks for the photos.
I see that your steel plates are deeper on your lathe base, perhaps 4 inches instead of the 2 inches on mine. I do find that I like to keep toolholders on the rear plate. Perhaps I will replace my rear plate with a deeper one
I have used the front plate for an indicator arm with magetic base, but not a lot. Mostly, it's been a little table during tool changes.
I recently realized a new another use of the steel plates: flexible work lights that have a magetic base.
It appears that you went with four feet, instead of three feet that I changed my lathe base to. I like three feet conceptually and practically, for leveling. I might make a three-feet base for a digital weight scale that I use in my kitchen; the scale has four wobbly feet. I also might make a three-feet base for a surface plate.
My first uses of my Sherline mill was to drill and countersink the holes in the steel plates. Later, I used the mill to bore 5/8-inch diameter holes at the ends of rails when I changed to anchor fasteners, and to mill the ends of rails after I roughly cut them to length using a hacksaw. 8020.net supplies rails in whole-inch lengths, but I needed some rails that were not whole-inch lengths, for the mill base.
I estimate that for my temporary combination base for lathe and mill, the maximum length workpiece that be turned is 51 inches.
To change the distance between the lathe and the mill, it's easier to slide the lathe on the rails than it is to move the mill. One need only loosen the four mounting screws of the lathe.
I centered the depth of the mill over the two rails. The OD of the 2.5-inch membrane modules was close to the column. To allow the large diameter work pieces to be turned, it would have been better to mount the mill more toward the rear.
I am amused by "definitely one of the odder adaptions that I've seen." It's a point of pride for me.I've seen a lot of unconventional mods made to Sherline and Taig lathes, but other than some resemblance to the pool cue lathe attachment Sherline sells this is definitely one of the odder adaptions that I've seen.
What are you turning, and what kind of accuracy are you requiring of this set up?
Are you using a steady rest with it, or other means to support such long pieces?