Mounting D1-3 Three jaw chuck

A question for Jim for runout, did you use the outer perimeter of chuck and the jaws tight on a shaft or is that an arbor?


That is just a chunk of 1 inch shafting I had laying around. The jaws are clamped on the shaft and I dialed in the OD of the chuck just to get it to run more or less concentric.
 
Here's the closest manual Grizzly had to my chinese 13x40.
G4016 Manual

BTW: I believe that the spindle and chucks should be D1-4, not D1-3.
 
Good evening guys,
Again thanks for the responses. To Bob Korves Light is still visible between the spindle face and the back plate with all three cam locks adjusted as recommended and the lathe spindle ran for a couple of minutes, the cam locks were still tight. I did coat the pins with oil and seemed to get a brief slipping feeling in the wrench I did try holding the chuck against the spindle face, awkward situation but I did get some light in the area of discussion. Next thing I am going to check is the back of the chuck for wobble with a dial test indicator or attempt a lever system for my 2" face dial indicator.

Jim Dawson, Thanks for explaining how you mounted your 4 jaw! I have some 1.25 bar stock and a piece if a 1.5" bolt that I think I will use for a shaft mounted between centers. Hopefully mounting as you did will let me check the runout on the back plate.

Chris Attebery, Thanks for bringing that to my attention. You would think D1-4 would mean 4 pins, but I noticed that Grizzly advertises a D1-4 mounting plate with only 3 holes. As I said earlier I stand corrected. My Enco is similar to the G4003 and I found neat information on the 13X36
ONE THING THAT I HAVEN'T MENTIONED IS THAT I TURN THE CAM LOCKS COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO SECURE THE CHUCK . I STUCK MY PINKY IN ONE OF THE PIN HOLSE AND IT SEEMS TURNING THE CAM LOCK CLOCKWISE WOULD PUSH THE CHUCK AWAY BEFORE GOING TIGHT. This is just opposite what the instructions say for the G4016. DEFINITELY GOING BACK TO THE SHOP IN THE MORNING.
Have a good day
Ray
 
Jim Dawson, Thanks for explaining how you mounted your 4 jaw!
ONE THING THAT I HAVEN'T MENTIONED IS THAT I TURN THE CAM LOCKS COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO SECURE THE CHUCK .

My pleasure to help out.

Something is not right, the cams should turn clockwise to tighten. The notch in the cam should be facing away from you when in the release position. The notch in the pin should be facing you.

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First, make sure you are actually tightening the chuck to the spindle by turning the cams. They should gradually get tighter as you turn them. Tighten each one a bit at a time until they are all tight. You do not want to force them, but they do need to be tight.

After the chuck is installed, if there is any light showing at the front spindle face, then the fit between spindle taper and back plate is not correct, the tapered opening in the back plate that the spindle taper seats against is not machined enough. Like I said in my first post, WARNING! Do not take off too much material. Fit the parts together and tighten the cams down after rubbing a very thin coat of high spot blue (Prussian blue) on the spindle taper. Then take it apart and inspect carefully for where there is contact against the taper. Get some 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the spots that were making contact -- only the areas where contact was made. Don't sand on the spindle, or get grit on the spindle. Try to keep the angle you are sanding the same as the spindle taper angle. Clean everything up quite well so there is no grit and nothing interfering with the fit. Try the fit again with the blueing, and check the fit at the spindle face. If there is still not complete contact, try again, and again, and again, little by little, until the cams just pull the back plate against the spindle face all the way around, no light showing. It should require very little metal removal. It should still require tapping the chuck to remove it after loosening the cams. Stop there, you are done.
 
My previous post, #26, assumes that you have parts that are designed and machined to fit together properly, and are adjusted properly and the chuck is being installed correctly. I am not there to look over your shoulder...
 
I’m confused just figured out their two separate people talking about chuck problems. Rock breaker if you skimmed the back of the backplate than the taper will be closer to the spindle by that much you took off and the taper will also need to be cut.
I would thing you need to start at the spindle taper and work out from there. Starting with the chuck and working to the spindle is gonna give a lot of error. If your chuck surfaces are all over the place it’s gonna be hard to even align to lathe to fix. Good luck.
 
I’m confused just figured out their two separate people talking about chuck problems. Rock breaker if you skimmed the back of the backplate than the taper will be closer to the spindle by that much you took off and the taper will also need to be cut.
Rock Breaker is the only one asking for help with mounting his chuck in this thread, so far...
 
ONE THING THAT I HAVEN'T MENTIONED IS THAT I TURN THE CAM LOCKS COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO SECURE THE CHUCK . I STUCK MY PINKY IN ONE OF THE PIN HOLSE AND IT SEEMS TURNING THE CAM LOCK CLOCKWISE WOULD PUSH THE CHUCK AWAY BEFORE GOING TIGHT. This is just opposite what the instructions say for the G4016. DEFINITELY GOING BACK TO THE SHOP IN THE MORNING.
Have a good day
Ray
It seems wrong. But by turning the cam clockwise, the backside of the cam pushes the back end of the chuck pins, inward. Do not think of the spindle cam, as pulling the chuck pins inward. I have a pic saved somewhere, that shows how they work, and then it makes sense. I'll keep looking for it.
 
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