Mounting Threaded Pipe to Turn

[Splat]

Rich, it's just slight surface rust. Nothing bad. I've got a few things I've gotta do and I'm trying to keep the alignment good, hence all the setup. I've just never worked with threaded pipe before and didn't want to screw this piece up and have to remake the whole thing.

 

[stupoty]

Rich, it's just slight surface rust. Nothing bad. I've got a few things I've gotta do and I'm trying to keep the alignment good, hence all the setup. I've just never worked with threaded pipe before and didn't want to screw this piece up and have to remake the whole thing.

You could try hand buffing on the lathe with some protection over the ways, any bend in the part would be less of a problem if doing the buffing by hand. or does it have to be a nice finnished surface ?

Stu

 

[Splat]

No, it doesn't Stu. I'll have the bull nose center tomorrow so well see how it goes then.

 

[mmcmdl]

Hit it with a belt sander in the lathe , just cover the bed !

 

[whitmore]

you could make an aluminum plug from a piece of scrap, that fits in the pipe with a center hole in it to use a regular live center and protect the threads.

Either turn the exterior of the threaded end, and have the plug/cap close-fit to the exterior, OR worry about threads centering (which they
will do, roughly, if a threaded plug engages with a flange against a dead-flat faced off tube end). Thread fitting clearance allows
a mil or three tolerance, which might bite you. I've seen threads cut with a final boring pass to make an accurate
internal diameter, which could also be good (in conjunction with an unthreaded plug).

Common plumbing pipe does not have good internal/external concentricity, if that's relevant.

 

[MalR]

Splat, if you’re just removing rust and accuracy/concentricity isn’t an issue, spin the pipe slowly in the lathe and power sand it (as someone suggested, cover the bed to catch the debris).

Steadies only work on stock that’s already round so it sounds like your pipe is only approximate!

If you need to remove metal accurately over the entire length you’d need to support between centres on a mandrel or threaded plugs, with the headstock plug longer so you can drive on it and with a shoulder so it doesn’t disappear up the pipe on first cut! But it doesn’t sound like you need this level of precision (just mentioning so you know for the future).

Mal

 

[Splat]

Finally got around to getting the pipe finished. Bought a bull nose center and it helped big time. The thing that really surprised me was seeing my dti jump around at the TS end of the pipe after I just dialed it in at the headstock. So I then dialed it in at the TS end. Came out beautiful. Thanks guys.