• We want to encourage those of you who ENJOY our site and find it USEFUL to DONATE and UPGRADE your membership from active member to donating or premium membership. If you want to know the differences in membership benefits, please visit THIS PAGE:

    https://www.hobby-machinist.com/premium/

    Donating memberships start at just $10 per year. These memberships are in fact donations that help pay our costs, and keep our site running!
    Thank you for your donation, God Bless You

  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

    We've seen a lot of changes. In March, 4 moderators left to start their own site. They took some of you with them. So now you have split loyalties. You know who you are. They didn't like my way of managing this place, and thought they could do better without me. They didn't. The only thing holding them together is that they hate me. Their site was down until mid July. That is why I wanted to stay involved on here until they could learn to run this place. But they wanted me to leave right away, without the training part.

    Anyway, I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too. I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation. I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will. Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with. I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons. Other than that, I don't want to know about this place.

    What about the 4 moderators who were disloyal? I don't care. It isn't my call anymore. I would think that, rather than fumble, they ought to come back and do good work. That's up to them. If they want to return to try to lead more members to their site, I am done caring. I suffered too much aggravation worrying about it. I don't plan to spend any more. What they do impacts on them. I have my own opinions including those of you who followed them there. No longer my problem.

    I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
    --Nelson
[4]

Moving -PM935 & PM1236

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

Stonebriar

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
149
Likes
32
#1
I have a question on pallets and pallet jacks. I am moving and will be shopless for about a year. I need to build pallets for the mill and lathe to be moved with a pallet jack. The top I will use 2x6 where the machines bolt in, 2x4 for the rest. The bottom I was thinking 3 rows of 3/4" plywood across. 2x4 or 2x6 for the uprights?

I see all the time where delivery has to set the load on another pallet to use a pallet jack. I want to avoid that. Please chime in with your knowledge.

Rick
 

Clock work

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
160
Likes
118
#2
The slackers who delivered my 935 came within maybe 20 deg of dumping it off the lift gate and again on a flat driveway... that second one still completely amazes me. Both cases the factory pallet began to lift off the throw-away pallet they had placed on the bottom. It's my understanding that a pallet on a pallet comes from the fact that the factory pallet is incompatible with their pallet jacks due to a horizontal ground-level board (2x4) it would have to climb in order to get into position ( https://flic.kr/p/SjPDw4 ). I designed a pallet-lifter for my tractor's 3-point and found numerous sources on line that specify the dimensions and construction of a standard pallet. Make the bottom of what you build comparable with the bottom of what a standard pallet is (openings, vertical climb-over) and they should have no reason to waste a pallet on you. I'd also suggest that your duckboards be the strongest wood you can find and employ fasteners that are at the upper end of the grip range because if guy on the fork truck decides to do a few donuts with your mill on it, it will be better able to resist tipping, at least within the first several degrees of tilt.
 

davidpbest

Registered
Registered
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
201
Likes
376
#3
Most pallet jacks will not get under a standard 2x4 on edge. I have all my machines on platforms so I can move them around with a conventional pallet jack and built the platforms out of 2x6's cut to 4.5" tall, glued and screwed the 3/4" plywood to those on the top. Leave the bottoms open.
 

Stonebriar

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
149
Likes
32
#4
I'll just add a strip of 3/4" plywood to my 2x4 edge boards and that should do it then. Thanks for the response.
 

wrmiller

Chief Tinkerer
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
3,379
Likes
1,359
#5
Can't help with the pallets, but just wanted to say "Good Luck" with your move. I just went through this and for me it wasn't the least bit fun. Maybe because mine was not planned, i.e., a unexpected layoff at work? :)

Anyway, I hope everything works out for you.
 

Stonebriar

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
149
Likes
32
#6
Thanks WRMiller I'll need it. This is a planned move money to build the house, but sadly there will be no shop until I sell the current house so everything goes in storage. I followed your move on here and having worked in the IT field understand your situation.
 

Clock work

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
160
Likes
118
#7
Something I promised myself I'd do when/if I move is... next shop, first thing I put in is a hoist on a rail. Even in a basement. Something I can lift and move with.
 

trottrr50

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
4
Likes
2
#8
Most pallet jacks will not get under a standard 2x4 on edge. I have all my machines on platforms so I can move them around with a conventional pallet jack and built the platforms out of 2x6's cut to 4.5" tall, glued and screwed the 3/4" plywood to those on the top. Leave the bottoms open.
David. I am considering purchase of a PM935 and a PM1340 for my limited space sholp and I am planning to have my machines movable with a pallet jack. Could you please post photos of the pallets you use on your machines. Steve McKay
 

davidpbest

Registered
Registered
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
201
Likes
376
#9
I should say that I don't normally move machines around in my shop - at least not the big ones. But they are all designed in some way to get a pallet jack under them if required.

My shop is in my basement, and I have gone to elaborate ends to fit the equipment into the space. If you're at all interested in that saga, have a look at this Basement Shop Setup.

My large European woodworking equipment is all designed to accept a 21" wide pallet jack under the chassis. I designed the stand for my PM1340 specifically to accept a pallet jack under the bottom rails (Custom PM1340 Stand). My current mill is a Rong Fu 45 (the real deal) and because I have 83" height restrictions in my shop I have it on a shop-built stand with integral pallet as mentioned in my post above. Here is a photo of that (excuse the mess, I'm chewing up aluminum by the bucket today).

IMG_2021.jpg

Nothing fancy about it. Two layers of 3/4" baltic birch plywood glued into a sandwich sitting on two stringers that are 4 x 4.5", also glued to the plywood.

I will caution you about moving large machines like this around on a routine basis. Unless you have one outrageously stiff stand for the PM1340, you are likely to throw the bed/headstock out of alignment when you move it around with a pallet jack on anything but a very flat floor. Twist in the bedways is a quick way to convert making a cylinder into making a tapered cone.

Although I can move my 1340 with a pallet jack, I leave it stationary until the floor needs painting. I plan on replacing the Rong Fu with a 935 soon, and due to ceiling height restrictions, I will not put it on a pallet, and instead let it sit on aluminum 4" round bar slugs that penetrate the wood floor and go down to the concrete into epoxy - much in the same manner I did for the 1340 as shown here:

IMG_5057.jpg

IMG_5058.jpg

IMG_5068.jpg

IMG_5070.jpg

IMG_5072.jpg

Hope this helps. You might also look around at some of the other posts for the 935. Lots of people have fabricated a stand with big casters to be able to move it around.
 

Attachments

trottrr50

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
4
Likes
2
#10
Ok, thanks for the quick reply. the pallets in your picture is similar to what I had in mind. I should not have to move the large machines often, but I want to be able to when needed. I have been searching a number of the forums on machining to get some other ideas. Steve McKay
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top