MT3 1" Slitting Saw Arbor

i started construction on a MT3 slitting saw arbor from materials in the shop.

here is the slug of what i believe to be 12L14 mild steel.
it was unmarked, but acted like 12L14 i have machined before.
it's very nice to turn.


the slug was a fraction over 1" in diameter and 7" long.
i centerdrilled both ends.
i turned the diameter on both ends down to .950".
one for the drive dog, the other to make the taper turning operation quicker



then i added the drive dog and offset the tailstock to a total indicated offset of .176"
and started cutting the taper


and after taking some passes, the arbor partially emerged from the rod!



i drilled & tapped the drawbar end to 3/8"-16 tpi x 1.250" depth and polished it up a bit more to fit into the MT3 test socket.
and here is the blank, pictured next to a MT2 blank i did the day before.



in the next episode...
i turn the cutter seat!
i'll do that inserted into the spindle of my Hercus ARH922.

Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel!!!

 

Warning, be careful with tapers. Sometimes the double taper is stated, sometimes single taper. Sometimes it is inches per foot, sometimes taper per inch, sometimes decimal degrees, sometimes degrees, minutes, and seconds, sometimes diameter change for a given length, sometimes metric. The various Morse tapers do not all have the same angles. And more. It can go badly wrong if you don't stay on the same page with all the units, and pay attention. The instructions Ulma Doctor gave you for the MT3 are simple, useful, and easy to follow.

 

Thanks
I need to get me a little book to put some of these formulas in. And for some reason I would have had it reversed as I would have had the flair on tapper backwards. I was thinking going away from the op.

Hi kvt,
i print up all kinds of charts and shop stuff and hang them in strategic places with thumb tacks or staples, as well as keep a binder in the shop.

believe me, adjusting out away from the op was the way i had it envisioned too, until i watched it being done!

Warning, be careful with tapers. Sometimes the double taper is stated, sometimes single taper. Sometimes it is inches per foot, sometimes taper per inch, sometimes decimal degrees, sometimes degrees, minutes, and seconds, sometimes diameter change for a given length, sometimes metric. The various Morse tapers do not all have the same angles. And more. It can go badly wrong if you don't stay on the same page with all the units, and pay attention. The instructions Ulma Doctor gave you for the MT3 are simple, useful, and easy to follow.

Thank you very much Bob
i agree 100%, having the taper in inches per foot is critical to using the formula i used.

if you get your math correct, the taper is not very difficult to reproduce- i hope anyone who reads this thread attempts to reproduce at a taper-
if only for fun!

 

There's the minor matter of offseting the tailstock though. I would never be able to get it back to 'True'

 

There's the minor matter of offseting the tailstock though. I would never be able to get it back to 'True'

sure you could!
you could reverse the process and dial Zero back in and go .176" the opposite direction.
then check with a test bar.
it's not difficult to do

 

Like Ulma said, it is easy to get it back if you have a test bar.

 

There's the minor matter of offseting the tailstock though. I would never be able to get it back to 'True'

Been thinking about that myself. What about drilling a shallow 1/8 hole in the joint between the top and bottom BEFORE offsetting it. Then to return to zero just align the top until a 1/8 pin fits in the hole.

 

Been thinking about that myself. What about drilling a shallow 1/8 hole in the joint between the top and bottom BEFORE offsetting it. Then to return to zero just align the top until a 1/8 pin fits in the hole.

I think I would use a less permanent solution. With wear the adjustments change over time. An adjustable stop might be useful, and the setting could still be changed when needed.

 

There's the minor matter of offseting the tailstock though. I would never be able to get it back to 'True'

If your lathe compound has enough travel? Cut the taper with your compound. And please don’t be concerned about re-aligning the tailstock. There are many good ideas on aligning the tailstock in the HM. It’s easy enough.

 

[QUOTE="i centerdrilled both ends.[/QUOTE]
Did you use a center drill with radius? Or 60° conical type?

 

[QUOTE="i centerdrilled both ends.
Did you use a center drill with radius? Or 60° conical type?

Hi Chips,
i used a standard 60° conical centerdrill