[4]

Muzzle brake

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
I'm going to bore holes 90 degrees to the bore of my 45-70 super 14 contender barrel to form a muzzle brake. My question is: If I bore the holes thru the barrel and then ream them to final size, will I still have burrs in the bore? I know I can send it out to have it ported by edm, but I would rather do this myself. Is there any other method to bore 90 degrees to the bore without burrs? There will be 6 rows of 4 each 3/16 holes beginning 1/2 inch from the muzzle and spaced 3/8 inch apart.

I understand it would be easier to thread the barrel and make a screw on brake but that's not what I want to do. I could also buy a new barrel with a built in brake but I spent all my money on lathe, mill, and tooling so I can't afford it.
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
That's simple. I guess I was over thinking it. I'll just fill the muzzle brake area with lead.

Thanx
Shelly
 

killswitch505

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
323
I’d just reach in with a boring bar an how much larger are you going to ream the brake section of the barrel and how deep
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
I was planning on leaving the rifling as it currently is. Just vent before the muzzle.
 

derf

Brass
Registered
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
714
You'll find that venting the barrel like you say will only yield about 10% in recoil reduction.
 

wrmiller

Chief Tinkerer
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
3,437
I start the holes with a normal drill, but do the break through plunge with a ball end mill. A couple of rounds down the barrel and everything is good. :)
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,786
Even if there are no burrs around the holes, the edges will be very sharp and scrape the bullets.
I think that you will have to open up the bore slightly (say .020'') in the area of the brake holes to avoid that.
 

dpb

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Oct 8, 2016
Messages
102
Even if there are no burrs around the holes, the edges will be very sharp and scrape the bullets.
I think that you will have to open up the bore slightly (say .020'') in the area of the brake holes to avoid that.
I realize that he would be making more holes, and larger ones, but gas operated rifles use a hole in the barrel to tap off gas, and accuracy can be excellent. Bullets are not damaged by passing the hole.
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
I'm not sure accuracy would suffer. I have some very fine shooting magna-ported revolvers. I know noise will increase substantially. I would be afraid to try opening the bore in the vented area beacuse I wouldn't be able to visibly cut a new crown. If this doesn't work I'll chop the barrel a couple inches, thread it and install a convention muzzle brake.
Thanx for all the input. I retire next Wednesday and this is one of my first (of many) retirement projects.

Shelly
 

38super

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
49
Rule of thumb, work on the cheaper part. Thread your barrel, experiment with add on brake/compensator. You're stuck once your barrel is drilled.
 

MarkDavis

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 9, 2018
Messages
73
Congratulations on the retirement Shelly.

You might remember me under another name on the catsboolits forum, I sent you some brass, we had a nice chat on the phone as a hurricane was bearing down on you, and forest fires were getting after it here.

I wouldn't worry about bullet scraping on those ports, high speed gilding metal and hot gas will smooth them up pretty quick.
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
This is really a training mission. I don't mind losing an inch or two of barrel if it doesn't work out.. A 14 inch barreled handgun can afford a couple inches.
Would a 5 or 10 degree angle toward the muzzle on the ports help with noise? Blast?

Hello Mark. I've got so many things I want to do that I don't know where to start. I want a load for this barrel that is confortable to shoot but with enough energy to be efficient in my 1895. 1895 loads in it now are a handful and tc loads in the 1895 are kinda wimpy.

Shelly
 

MarkDavis

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 9, 2018
Messages
73
I can't answer your questions with experience, but a muzzle break like this has a lot more surface area for the escaping gas to push on than smaller ports in the barrel does. www.google.com/search?q=muzzle+brake&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjf8uOOxOjfAhUKilQKHXygATAQ_AUIDygC&biw=1093&bih
Getting some scrap steel and trying your hand at making something similar would be a great training mission too.
Doing it enough times to make it look good in your eyes, would give you quite a bit of skill before cutting into a perfectly good barrel.
I have an ruined AR-10 bolt carrier around here, in hindsight, I sure wish I had more skill before cutting into it!
 

38super

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
49
Folks either side will be blasted, enough to move a toupe' sometimes.

edit: Depends on your load (chamber pressure), poofta loads are less annoying.
 

Shootymacshootface

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 17, 2018
Messages
259
If it were I, doing this project, and performance was the goal (you finally hinted ar your objective) I would fabricate a Howitzer style brake. Search JP Enterprises muzzle brake. My load would be a 300gr jacketed bullet with a healthy load of 4198 powder behind it. A comp or brake needs a lot of gas behind the bullet to be effective.

Once you make a hole in the side of the barrel it will be very loud. You might as well make it effective as well.
Shooty

Also, all of the recoil would already be in your hand with a heavier bullet by the time it exited the barrel.
 
Last edited:

wrmiller

Chief Tinkerer
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
3,437
The projects I did like this were to reduce muzzle flip, like a compensator, not to act as a muzzle brake for recoil reduction. Modifications like this have been done for years to competition and hunting pistols with good success.

This modification doesn't do much to mitigate recoil though. For this a more traditional muzzle brake like those MarkDavis suggested would be more appropriate.
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
This is what I had in mind except built into barrel.

Muzzle brake.jpg
I wonder if it will be effective with rifling all the way to muzzle.
 

derf

Brass
Registered
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
714
That style is the most effective for recoil reduction, not to mention better noise control. It would be 100 times easier to make this and thread on the barrel. Make the bore .020" larger than bullet dia.
 

wrmiller

Chief Tinkerer
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
3,437
Just curious, but why such a large bore?
 

Shootymacshootface

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 17, 2018
Messages
259
The 45-70 is an extremely versatile cartridge if you are a handloader. The only way imo one would benefit from the discussed mods would be with light bullets and shotgun and pistol powders. Magna Port style venting and a well designed brake would be the most effective.

If you are not a handloader and are shooting rifle ammo in a 10 or 14" Contender performance will be underwhelming.

My 2 cents.
 

shell70634

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
18
I handload. 12.5 gr Unique behind a 390 grain cast bullet. Fun low recoil shooter. 14.5 with same bullet in my 1895
 

lordbeezer

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
79
I have several 45-70's..cast 350 to 550 gr.bullets.use several powders.trailboss.unique.5744.3031.4198.Rx7 depending on application .from ez to not so ez.not so thrilled on the bruised shoulder any more..low recoil loads get the nod most days.
 

john.k

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
114
My experience with a swedish auto rifle.......the holes for the brake were very much smaller ,and a lot more of them......I think with the big holes,four holes would vent most of the gas,and rest be wasted.............there once was a device called a Pendleton,and the holes were similar to the Swede.
 

kb58

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Jan 10, 2019
Messages
47
I'm going to bore holes 90 degrees to the bore of my 45-70 super 14 contender barrel to form a muzzle brake...
I don't see how this can work. If the idea is to reduce recoil, it means that to counteract rearward movement of the rifle, the exhaust has to propel the rifle forward. The only way that can happen is for the above holes to be bored at a rear-leaning angle. What am I missing?
 

Shootymacshootface

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Mar 17, 2018
Messages
259
I don't see how this can work. If the idea is to reduce recoil, it means that to counteract rearward movement of the rifle, the exhaust has to propel the rifle forward. The only way that can happen is for the above holes to be bored at a rear-leaning angle. What am I missing?
You are not wrong, but the biggest thing that people are missing is that the 45-70 is not your average rifle cartridge. The bullet is so heavy and slow moving that ALL of the recoil will already be in your hands BEFORE the bullet leaves the barrel. Unless you are shooting some very specialized handloads any kind of muzzle device will have very little if any effect on recoil.
 

Gunnermhr1

Newbie
Registered
Joined
Jan 25, 2018
Messages
18
This is what I had in mind except built into barrel.

View attachment 284690
I wonder if it will be effective with rifling all the way to muzzle.
This is a very effective brake, not as effective as a clamshell style, but also not nearly as obnoxious. This is either a Vais or Vais copy. I've made several of these and am currently working on one with an integrated tuner. You're going to have a real hard time drilling the bolt circle if you plan on doing this to the end of the barrel, I'm not exactly how you would? You will most definitely want to run a boring bar through it after the cross holes are drilled, everything I've read indicates .020" overbore is safe and the most effective. I would also be a little concerned how much material is left after your done machining, there may not be enough to withstand the pressure of the gases being vented.

There is no way I would do this to the barrel, I would thread the barrel and make the brake as a separate piece.
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top