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Muzzle brake

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shell70634

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#1
I'm going to bore holes 90 degrees to the bore of my 45-70 super 14 contender barrel to form a muzzle brake. My question is: If I bore the holes thru the barrel and then ream them to final size, will I still have burrs in the bore? I know I can send it out to have it ported by edm, but I would rather do this myself. Is there any other method to bore 90 degrees to the bore without burrs? There will be 6 rows of 4 each 3/16 holes beginning 1/2 inch from the muzzle and spaced 3/8 inch apart.

I understand it would be easier to thread the barrel and make a screw on brake but that's not what I want to do. I could also buy a new barrel with a built in brake but I spent all my money on lathe, mill, and tooling so I can't afford it.
 

dpb

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#2
You can push a lead slug into the bore, drill & ream. This should mostly eliminate burrs.
 

shell70634

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#3
That's simple. I guess I was over thinking it. I'll just fill the muzzle brake area with lead.

Thanx
Shelly
 

killswitch505

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#4
I’d just reach in with a boring bar an how much larger are you going to ream the brake section of the barrel and how deep
 

shell70634

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#5
I was planning on leaving the rifling as it currently is. Just vent before the muzzle.
 

derf

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#6
You'll find that venting the barrel like you say will only yield about 10% in recoil reduction.
 

jbolt

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#8
and affect accuracy
 

wrmiller

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#9
I start the holes with a normal drill, but do the break through plunge with a ball end mill. A couple of rounds down the barrel and everything is good. :)
 

Tozguy

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#10
Even if there are no burrs around the holes, the edges will be very sharp and scrape the bullets.
I think that you will have to open up the bore slightly (say .020'') in the area of the brake holes to avoid that.
 

dpb

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#11
Even if there are no burrs around the holes, the edges will be very sharp and scrape the bullets.
I think that you will have to open up the bore slightly (say .020'') in the area of the brake holes to avoid that.
I realize that he would be making more holes, and larger ones, but gas operated rifles use a hole in the barrel to tap off gas, and accuracy can be excellent. Bullets are not damaged by passing the hole.
 

shell70634

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#12
I'm not sure accuracy would suffer. I have some very fine shooting magna-ported revolvers. I know noise will increase substantially. I would be afraid to try opening the bore in the vented area beacuse I wouldn't be able to visibly cut a new crown. If this doesn't work I'll chop the barrel a couple inches, thread it and install a convention muzzle brake.
Thanx for all the input. I retire next Wednesday and this is one of my first (of many) retirement projects.

Shelly
 

38super

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#13
Rule of thumb, work on the cheaper part. Thread your barrel, experiment with add on brake/compensator. You're stuck once your barrel is drilled.
 

MarkDavis

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#14
Congratulations on the retirement Shelly.

You might remember me under another name on the catsboolits forum, I sent you some brass, we had a nice chat on the phone as a hurricane was bearing down on you, and forest fires were getting after it here.

I wouldn't worry about bullet scraping on those ports, high speed gilding metal and hot gas will smooth them up pretty quick.
 

shell70634

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#15
This is really a training mission. I don't mind losing an inch or two of barrel if it doesn't work out.. A 14 inch barreled handgun can afford a couple inches.
Would a 5 or 10 degree angle toward the muzzle on the ports help with noise? Blast?

Hello Mark. I've got so many things I want to do that I don't know where to start. I want a load for this barrel that is confortable to shoot but with enough energy to be efficient in my 1895. 1895 loads in it now are a handful and tc loads in the 1895 are kinda wimpy.

Shelly
 

MarkDavis

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#16
I can't answer your questions with experience, but a muzzle break like this has a lot more surface area for the escaping gas to push on than smaller ports in the barrel does. www.google.com/search?q=muzzle+brake&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjf8uOOxOjfAhUKilQKHXygATAQ_AUIDygC&biw=1093&bih
Getting some scrap steel and trying your hand at making something similar would be a great training mission too.
Doing it enough times to make it look good in your eyes, would give you quite a bit of skill before cutting into a perfectly good barrel.
I have an ruined AR-10 bolt carrier around here, in hindsight, I sure wish I had more skill before cutting into it!
 

38super

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#17
Folks either side will be blasted, enough to move a toupe' sometimes.

edit: Depends on your load (chamber pressure), poofta loads are less annoying.
 

Shootymacshootface

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#18
If it were I, doing this project, and performance was the goal (you finally hinted ar your objective) I would fabricate a Howitzer style brake. Search JP Enterprises muzzle brake. My load would be a 300gr jacketed bullet with a healthy load of 4198 powder behind it. A comp or brake needs a lot of gas behind the bullet to be effective.

Once you make a hole in the side of the barrel it will be very loud. You might as well make it effective as well.
Shooty

Also, all of the recoil would already be in your hand with a heavier bullet by the time it exited the barrel.
 
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wrmiller

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#19
The projects I did like this were to reduce muzzle flip, like a compensator, not to act as a muzzle brake for recoil reduction. Modifications like this have been done for years to competition and hunting pistols with good success.

This modification doesn't do much to mitigate recoil though. For this a more traditional muzzle brake like those MarkDavis suggested would be more appropriate.
 

shell70634

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#20
This is what I had in mind except built into barrel.

Muzzle brake.jpg
I wonder if it will be effective with rifling all the way to muzzle.
 

derf

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#21
That style is the most effective for recoil reduction, not to mention better noise control. It would be 100 times easier to make this and thread on the barrel. Make the bore .020" larger than bullet dia.
 

wrmiller

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#22
Just curious, but why such a large bore?
 

Shootymacshootface

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#23
The 45-70 is an extremely versatile cartridge if you are a handloader. The only way imo one would benefit from the discussed mods would be with light bullets and shotgun and pistol powders. Magna Port style venting and a well designed brake would be the most effective.

If you are not a handloader and are shooting rifle ammo in a 10 or 14" Contender performance will be underwhelming.

My 2 cents.
 

shell70634

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#24
I handload. 12.5 gr Unique behind a 390 grain cast bullet. Fun low recoil shooter. 14.5 with same bullet in my 1895
 

Shootymacshootface

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#25
12gr unique behind a Lee 500gr spitzer for my trapdoor.
 

lordbeezer

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#26
I have several 45-70's..cast 350 to 550 gr.bullets.use several powders.trailboss.unique.5744.3031.4198.Rx7 depending on application .from ez to not so ez.not so thrilled on the bruised shoulder any more..low recoil loads get the nod most days.
 
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