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My 9A-#16490 NKR

finsruskw

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Finally got some spare time to begin clean up. Decided to start on the easy end first!
First question: What, if anything, goes in the hole on the tailstock opposite the cinch down lever?
More questions to follow I'm sure.

DSCN7899.JPG

I don't mind a little patina but this is ridiculous!
And totally uncalled for.
Some folks should not be allowed to own putty knives!!
The dial for the tailpiece is cracked and the knob is missing.
Anyone have a spare?

DSCN7899.JPG DSCN7898.JPG DSCN7900.JPG
 

benmychree

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The hole was for a dauber, a ball headed spike looking thing with a round shouldered part that kept the cavity more or less sealed when not being used to apply center lubricant when using dead centers; the little pocket was partially filled with whatever center lube you wanted to use, whether it was Dixon's graphite lube, CMD (I think) or white or red lead in oil. My HS machine shop had them on all the SB lathes and they were used.
 

finsruskw

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Thanks!
There was some kind of crusty looking cream colored stuff in it when I dug around with a screwdriver in there.
It has the standard UMD cabinet w/mounting lugs and w/o drawers. I think it will clean up nicely, at least it's not all beat up.
I tried a few "towels in bucket" hand cleaners on one side and the color came right back out through all the crud!
 

benmychree

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likely white lead. Mine has sheet steel legs without drawers also, seem like a waste of space, but cheap, I guess.
 

silverhawk

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UMD is an under mount drive. You have UMD if the engine is below the headstock in the cabinet.

joe
 

finsruskw

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More questions...
How does this come apart?
I want to dis-assemble, clean and lube it
I have the short gib out and the set screw that holds the base for the tool post as well as the screw holding the dial indicator including the peg underneath it.
I would think the screw would just unscrew off the end and the top just slide off??
It looks like it takes a special tool to remove the cap from the handle?
Also, I am missing several of the gib retaining screws on both the main slide and the tool post slde.
Anyone know the thread size on these? Does not appear to be NC or NF standard.

Thanks in advance
Oh, I did pick up a used Cushman 3 jaw chuck yesterday, better than nothing at all for now.
 

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benmychree

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I think you have to remove the screw assembly first, and the top slide tilts to one side to lift off over the nut
 

finsruskw

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Kinda what I thought but when I unscrew it all the way out, thinking it would just slide off after clearing the nut, it locks up and binds.
 

benmychree

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Yes, the back of the top slide runs into the nut, that is why the screw assembly has to be removed so that the top slide can be tilted off with the gib removed. I should think that the gib screws should be a standard thread. SB does not seem to be a company that bastardized things.
 

finsruskw

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Found them on the Illion Industrial sight, size 12 x 28
Ordered a spanner pin wrench to get the nut off and will have to locate a spanner bit to remove the nut on the handle end as well.
Looks like the lead screw will have to come off in order to drop the apron??
Or can I slide the apron off the right side after propping the 1/2 nuts open?
 

benmychree

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You should be able to slide the apron to the right, off the end of the lead screw, best to put some blocking under it to avoid the screw sagging. If the feed selector is left in the feed position, not in the thread position, there should be no need to "prop them open", they will be locked open.
 

finsruskw

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I dunno, but to these newbie untrained eyes, these apron parts look pretty good to me at least!
Have the casting clean and ready for paint as soon as I get the machined areas masked off.

DSCN7905.JPG DSCN7906.JPG DSCN7907.JPG
 
Last edited:

brino

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Great colour and finish!
-brino
 

finsruskw

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Thanks!
The color is Gloss Smoke Grey, Rustoleum rattle can is all, nothing special.
Thinking about a different color for the base, what say you guys?
Probably disassemble and haul to the sandblaster and have an auto body shop shoot that in automotive paint.
 

silverhawk

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When doing the bed (or any surface that mattress with another), don't sand blast it unless you can protect the ways.

joe
 

finsruskw

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Sand blast will be for the cabinet only, after the guts are all removed.
I'm thinking a little darker shade of grey to compliment the lighter color of the components.

Got the bed off and the gear box and head removed yesterday.
Will take the power washer to the bed today hopefully then mask, paint and set aside for now.
I'm gaining on it slow but sure.
 

Karlito26

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Nice project. I love it when people restore older machines.
Question for all: on the carriage, inbetween the ways there are two 5/16 x 18 bolt holes. What are they for?
 

finsruskw

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You mean on the back side of then saddle?
I wondered that myself.
Maybe something to do with a taper attachment?
I'll bet it's for that, part #10, bed bracket
 

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Karlito26

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Not on the backside but in the middle of the saddle. Inbetween the ways. On the last pic below the compound rest.
 

Karlito26

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My mystery solved! Thank you.
How often is something like that needed?
 

finsruskw

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My 33/64" bit and M14 x 1.5 tap showed up this week so one of the projects today is finish the "tee" nut for the compound on the 9A.
Will be using the mill to drill and would like to power tap the hole once drilled.
Couple of questions here.
Is there a rule of thumb as to what size pilot hole to pre-drill for larger bits?
I plan on using a small end mill for a pilot hole, good idea or bad?
The slowest my mill will turn is 80 RPM, is this to fast for tapping a hole this size?

Thanks?

DSCN7927.JPG
 

brino

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Sorry for the delay, I stopped getting notifications on updates to threads I "watch".

I know it's too late for you top-slide t-nut since you showed it complete above, but it may be useful in the future.

Did you power tap it? How did it go?


Is there a rule of thumb as to what size pilot hole to pre-drill for larger bits?
I like the chart from Little Machine Shop. I printed and laminated a copy and keep it in the shop.
The web page here shows only the imperial sheet: https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapdrill.php

However, if you download the PDF from this link on that page:
ScreenShot076.jpg


You get a PDF version with two pages Metric and Imperial.

What I like about that chart are the two recommendations for 75% thread or 100% thread depth.
You can choose what fits the application.

-brino
 
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