My Clausing 100 mk 3 Serial# 5396

[WEL0058]

I have a Clausing Model 100 mk3 standard lathe which has been in our family since the 1960's. My father had bought the lathe from a retired machinist and spent many nights make/rebuild parts. I have had this great lathe for 20 years now.

I have had visitors ask me a lot of questions when they see this lathe. It would be great to date this lathe and who the original purchaser was. There is no data plates other the serial number '5396' stamped into right side of the bed.

I reached yesterday out to Tom McNett at Clausing to see what they had on their records. He responded today with this response...
>
> Our records show that this is a Model 102 and it shipped to Indus. Elec. On 11/15/46. This is all the info I have on it.
> Best regards,
>
> Tom McNett
> Technical Service
> Clausing Service Center
> Ph: 800-535-6553
> Email: tmcnett@clausingsc.com

Had responded back to Tom if he had any more information such as a shipping address but he did not.. I assumed 'Indus. Elec' is 'Industrial Electrical' which was hopeless to search on. since any commercial electrical company is listed as 'Industrial Electrical Services'.

We where living in New Jersey at the time my dad purchased the lathe from the previous owner in northern N.J.

The lathe could hava been originally purchased by electrical company to repair electric motors.

Bob G.
Madison, VA

 

[34_40]

Congrats and welcome aboard. The lathe looks great.

 

[WEL0058]

Well I have been collecting part to install a QCGB and replace the standard apron with the newer heavy-duty apron with independent power feed. The new apron requires a 7/8-8 RH lead screw which I currently do not have. I do have a spare ‘Standard’ 3/4-8 RH lead screw which can be shorten to use with original apron. Just need to machine a coupler to the lead screw.

Right now cleaning the lathe and parts then give it a fresh coat of paint.

.

 

[WEL0058]

Well making progress. Disassemble the spindle from the head stock and left the back gear assembly in place. Removed at the paint from the bed. It was literally flaking off to bare metal with the needle scaler. Wire wheels, prime and paint with Rustulem medium gray paint.

Going to replace the five bearings in the QCGB with1622-2RS bearings. The old double shield bearing stiff with old grease. Little bit a puzzle taking it a part. Like a rubric cube.

What is the best order in disassembling the gearbox to replace the bearings?

I am replacing the standard apron with the advance apron. Believe I have one from a 4800 lathe with oil sight gauge on bottom of tail stock side. The standard carriage saddle holes are off by about 0.030“. Will oblong the saddle bore holes to fit the new apron.

 

[WEL0058]

Any one have a lead on QCGB gear train cover and a good lead screw?

 

[WEL0058]

Bought a 7/8” lead screw from a Clausing 5904 lathe on eBay. Made it fit with a sledge hammer and the torch.

Glad I bought all my parts ten years on eBay. There is nothing on eBay for Clausing 100/4800 series lathes. Most of the items for Clausing now are for the 5900 lathes. Guess they are now being scrapped.

Bought new split nut from Clausing, Bought the cross slide and compound lead screw nuts on eBay. Swapping out the original countershaft sleeve bushings with ball bearings. Most of the lathe was disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled.

Now working on countershaft then electric motor/wiring, paint cabinet exterior.

 

[WEL0058]

Since most of the lathe is completed, shift my focus on the electrical. Electric on the lathe consists of 1/2 Hp 1725 rpm 120vac motor, two large contactor and three push button switches.

Is this setup overkill for a 1/2 hp electric motor when I see most of these lathes just using a drum switch?

Down the road, may go VFD setup with 1 or 1-1/2 hp 3 phase motor. What do you think?

 

[34_40]

I think with a threaded on chuck, don't try to run in reverse. And yes, I think all that gear is way to much - a simple on and off is all that's needed.
My point oh two, ymmv, yada yada yada... fwiw..

 

[wa5cab]

I wouldn't exceed 3/4 HP single phase. If you go with the VFD and don't use a motor actually rated for VFD service, you might want to go with a 1 HP to offset the overheating problem when running it slowly.

As far as the problems with running in reverse are concerned, you should not do any turning or threading in reverse. However, if you plan to run a tool post grinder and don't want a face-full of sparks, you will need reverse. And any operation that uses a draw-bar will be safe. I have an Atlas 3996 with threaded spindle and have never had any problems with a properly seated chuck coming loose just from starting the machine in reverse, for example when doing a threading operation that required not disengaging the halfnuts for the duration. So long as I didn't do any actual cutting while in reverse.

 

[WEL0058]

Thank you Robert,

When I switch chucks, I give it a good clockwise spin to set the chuck. Removing the chuck reqires little more effort. I have done all my work with the lathe turning counter clockwise. Remember my dad doing some boring and grinding in reverse.

This will be my first VFD project. Have been reading about VFD for about three years now. I purchased a new Baldor 3ph 1HP 208-230v - 460/60/3 1750RPM 56 Frame motor a few days ago. From my understanding running newer motor in VFD 30% to 80% Hz range should not create much heat building up with a larger motor. I have a AT-1 220V 8A 1Pto3P inverter.

I have upgraded some components on this lathe to make more threading friendly. In the process have been tightening up the backlash in the lathe.