My first Bridgeport

May be enough meat there, so long as it wraps around past the mid point of the lock, that it'll hold just fine. The table locks don't need to be farmer tight, just snugged up.
 
Petrolero said:
What was inside the chip was the cross-slide locking pin...
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I was thinking of the unused holes on the other end of the saddle, bummer. You could bolt a piece of plate to the end of the saddle with a tapped hole for the lever and add a 2nd spacer.
 
akjeff said:
Removing the table and saddle for a thorough cleaning is a smart move, and well worth the effort. You'll be making chips in no time!
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I think you almost have to. At least I do.
 
Yer into it this far fix it now or cuss yerself later, I lucked out with mine last year and only needed a thorough cleanin
and adjustin .................... ;)
 
You should take a look at my Rockwell tear down: recent photos of pulling a knee.

While you have it out, cleannout the chips and close the hole in the back that let's chips in!

Also, note which way those sliding covers go in!!! I reassembled my Rockwell covers backwards 20 years ago... and bent one maybe 7 years ago. Fixed now ;-)

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Weldingrod1-

I'm planning to pull the knee - am trying to decide whether to use the tractor bucket or engine hoist - guess it'll be the tractor because then I can get it outside to power wash it. I hope my bucket will lift it.
 
Got the saddle freed of the oil lines and all cleaned up -

Question to the knowledgeable - I appear to have either brass or steel inserts where the oil lines plug into the saddle. What keeps the lines from falling out once inserted, simple friction? I've got new line and meters ordered so I guess you push the new line in as far as it will go and hope for a very tight fit. Anyone use a dab of silicone sealer around the edge after they're in to ensure they stay put? I know there's no real pressure on them to come loose but-
 
When I replaced mine, the factory lines had a JB Weld like material where the line entered the castings. I used some silicone when I installed the new lines.
 
Friction holds them in, they only need to be pushed in 3/4ish. Heat to bend after the tube is in the hole. Try to orient the rolled up bend so the tube tries to hold itself against the casting while you're at it.
 
I made a map of which line from the manifold went to which hole in the saddle- but after thinking about it, I don't think it matters - or does it?
 
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