My New 1340GT

I am open to thoughts on where to put the DRO and tach... if anyone has ideas... :thinking:

The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are. If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit. Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.

Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.

MachTach.jpg

MachTach.jpg
 
Bill.... have you decided how you are going to do the wiring? As in which controls to add, subtract, modify, etc?
I am thinking to pretty much copy what Mike did with his... albeit the red stop button will be wired to a different pin on the VFD.. a 'quick stop' feature.

The only thing different... will be the DRO head and MachTach (probably mount it below the DRO), not sure where to put it on the lathe... thinking out of the top of the rear elec box.... somewhere so when I look up from the chuck, I see the DRO and tach... rather than looking up and to the side. At this point, I am thinking to put the VFD box on the lower left side (below the belt/gears), with the cooling fan blowing out the back.
I am open to thoughts on where to put the DRO and tach... if anyone has ideas... :thinking:

No, haven't completely decided yet. But I'm thinking that I'll just use the controls available on the VFD (FWD, REV, JOG, etc.) and call it good to start. The circuit I remember seeing (Mark's?) had the VFDs 24v output sourcing the 'power' LED and the relay with the relay needing most of the available current. I'm thinking I need to leave the 240/24v transformer in there to power the halogen work light. I'll probably get the NEMA cabinet he recommended and just replace the factory electrical box. I 'should' be able to get everything into one box that way.

Won't make any final decisions on what to do until I get the lathe up on its stand and stare at it a bit. ;)

I have already bought those TE-CO leveling pads that Mike suggested though. These are some stout little buggers... :lmao:
 
The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are. If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit. Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.

Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.

View attachment 94344

THX Mark...

I have two of the MachTachs coming, both are the 'compact' design (stacked board). What you show in the pic is probably what I will do with the lathe. And thx for the heads up on the shielded cable for the pickup... that kind of issue is frustrating until it is solved.

On the 935 mill... I am thinking to make a new (and larger) switch box for the left side of the mill head... put the forward reverse, speed pot, emergency stop button, and machtach in the box. Probably need to do some internal shielding to keep the machtach separated from the other stuff.
 
No, haven't completely decided yet. But I'm thinking that I'll just use the controls available on the VFD (FWD, REV, JOG, etc.) and call it good to start. The circuit I remember seeing (Mark's?) had the VFDs 24v output sourcing the 'power' LED and the relay with the relay needing most of the available current. I'm thinking I need to leave the 240/24v transformer in there to power the halogen work light. I'll probably get the NEMA cabinet he recommended and just replace the factory electrical box. I 'should' be able to get everything into one box that way.

Won't make any final decisions on what to do until I get the lathe up on its stand and stare at it a bit. ;)

I have already bought those TE-CO leveling pads that Mike suggested though. These are some stout little buggers... :lmao:

I agree on getting the lathe in the shop, on the stand, and just look at it. Funny how the ideas just happen when one does that.
I may need to set up a computer in the shop... will need to post here while I fiddle... LOL
However... NOT when the machine(s) are running... :)
 
The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are. If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit. Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.

Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.

This is good info, thanks!

I am contemplating popping for a 8" PBA set-tru because I already have a 5" on the little SB and the 6" just doesn't seem like much of a jump in capacity. But it's $300 more than the 6" so I'm going to have to get a little creative in order to do this. Probably means putting off the Dorian for a while. I will pop for a 4-jaw when I find I need it, and it will probably be a Bison as well. Took a year before I found I needed one for my SB and have only used it once. I do mostly roundy round stuff on the lathe. :lmao:

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
Hey Mark,

That encoder you show: Is that optical?
 
I agree on getting the lathe in the shop, on the stand, and just look at it. Funny how the ideas just happen when one does that.
I may need to set up a computer in the shop... will need to post here while I fiddle... LOL
However... NOT when the machine(s) are running... :)

I have a iPhone 6 plus for that. :lmao:
 
You are welcome...

My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.

I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate. Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold. Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors). That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Seems like a portable gantry and a trolley would work nicely to get it in place. Up, slide, down, reposition, repeat.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356724_200356724 Maybe you can rent one?
 
Hi Bill,

I started with an optical and machined the cogged aluminum ring for it, but couldn't get a steady rpm. In hindsight it was probably that I was grounding the cable. When I spoke to the MAcTach designer, he said the optical works well, but the height setting given in the manual is critical. Too close or too far, and it will not work. He recommended the black tape and some of the reflective tape at evenly spaced intervals (which was missing on mine). I ended up with the hall sensor and some magnets, very stable readings. If I were to do it again, I would make a round aluminum ring, bore some small holes for the round magnets and glue them in with epoxy. So it was a learning experience.

PBA 8", that a big (bad) boy, really depends on what stock you normally use, otherwise use an 8" independent if infrequent. I did some square stock the other day, so had to switch it out to the independent, but had the vibration issue. I think a good QCTP makes a world of difference, but it is always a finical dilemma. Just get the QCTP alone if it is the Dorian, not the package. I like most of the Aloris holders better.

On another tangent, these tool cabinets from HF are great for all you tool holders, etc. I use one on the side of my mill and another for the lathe (you do need to add some wheels on the bottom), they are a good size and height for frequently used items. I also place stuff on the tops that I am actively using (indicators, holders, etc.). Good price and decent quality, just do not like the shiny red on the new ones. Won't fit most chucks, but I have seen people use square weld tubing platform between the cabinets to make shelves for the chucks and heavy tooling storage (also adds weight to the lathe base). http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-7-drawer-glossy-red-end-cabinet-for-roller-tool-chest-68785.html

If you mount the VFD in a separate NEMA cabinet like the one noted, I probably would mount it on the back of the splash shield if your lathe is not going against a wall. Otherwise, leave enough cable and mount to a wall. Just did a complete VFD build for another member, this is what we ended up doing, except he is mounting it on the splash shield back at the tail stock end instead of the headstock due to access reasons. I also mounted a 5C collet rack at the tail stock end on the lathe cabinet so I have quick access to the collets. You can also use a DIN steel rail for the the QCTP tool holders if you do not have a side cabinet to put them in. Also didn't like the light mounted at the headstock end, as it can interferes with the DRO when you reposition it (remounted mine more toward the center of the splash field). Lots of options....., have fun with your new lathes, you will really appreciate them in use. Look forward to your builds and comments.
Mark

Harbor Freight U.S. General Pro - item#68785.jpg
 
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