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[4]

My Power Scraper (Video Included)

January Project of the Month [3]
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ThunderDog

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#1
Just finished this last night. This model already had variable speed, but now has variable/adjustable throw.
I have the cover off to show the new access port and the second pic. just shows my very first cuts being made on a chunk of steel.
Video will be put on my channel in the next couple of days. Video is now ready. :big grin::big grin:
I put it in this post to keep the thread tidy. Enjoy!!

20180217_221007.jpg
20180217_220959.jpg


 
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middle.road

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#3
Oh Cool.
It would be nice to master scrapping.
So little time so many things to try and learn.
 

4GSR

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#4
When you power scrape, you work the scraper side to side, try not to push it as you do with a hand scraper. It's hard to do until you get the hang of it. Put some downward pressure on it. You want it to dig in into the surface. When I say dig in, it should leave valleys that when measured, will be 2 to 5 tenths deep. (Word taken from Richard King). The length sticking out is about right, don't shorten it! If anything, take the bend out.
Now, will it hold up to what the real McCoy Biax will?
 

ThunderDog

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#5
When you power scrape, you work the scraper side to side, try not to push it as you do with a hand scraper. It's hard to do until you get the hang of it. Put some downward pressure on it. You want it to dig in into the surface. When I say dig in, it should leave valleys that when measured, will be 2 to 5 tenths deep. (Word taken from Richard King). The length sticking out is about right, don't shorten it! If anything, take the bend out.
Now, will it hold up to what the real McCoy Biax will?
I'm sure it's no BIAX. But, the price is just about perfect;) for the current budget.
 

Bob Korves

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#6
You are using it more like a flaker than a scraper. It seems to work pretty well as a flaker, from what I can see. Like insurgent K said, need to go side to side to do scraping, and need to have very good control over when you cut and where you stay away from, and how deep the cuts are. Practice some more with it and see what kind of progress you make. Interesting, inexpensive tool mod. I suggest that you leave the tool shank as long as it is, and leave it bent. If you make another shank, try making it more flexible (thinner shank). Richard teaches a "dive bombing" technique to do finish work with power scrapers, where you pick off the individual small high spots. Roughing up larger surfaces is a necessary prelude to getting the surface flat, but only a prelude. Then you must keep picking off the high spots while leaving the lower spots alone.
 

Richard King 2

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#8
Pretty unique and more power to you on your scraper / saw but as a BIAX distributor and have been using a BIAX Power Scraper since 1972, I would say to keep an eye open on Ebay or place a wanted on the forum or other forums and by a BIAX. Keith Rucker bought a Green Motor 7ELM for $200.00 . Had a student buy on off the German Craigslist for $500.00 and after he made a step up transformer and freight was around $800.00

Thos blue BIAX Scrapers sell for $300.00 to $800.00 on Ebay and the usually have blades in the box.

I company I taught at made a similar version of your saw / scraper and it broke when it was used about an hour. Also as the other guys said move sideways. Also cut cross ways on machine marks so you don't make chatter deeper.

I sell a DVD and USB stick showing how to scrape. PM me or I have it on Ebay now. If you order fromme direct I will give you 10% off. Also if you go to You Tube and search Richard King Scraping you well see all sorts of shows on scraping my students put together. Rich
 

ThunderDog

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#9
Pretty unique and more power to you on your scraper / saw but as a BIAX distributor and have been using a BIAX Power Scraper since 1972, I would say to keep an eye open on Ebay or place a wanted on the forum or other forums and by a BIAX. Keith Rucker bought a Green Motor 7ELM for $200.00 . Had a student buy on off the German Craigslist for $500.00 and after he made a step up transformer and freight was around $800.00

Thos blue BIAX Scrapers sell for $300.00 to $800.00 on Ebay and the usually have blades in the box.

I company I taught at made a similar version of your saw / scraper and it broke when it was used about an hour. Also as the other guys said move sideways. Also cut cross ways on machine marks so you don't make chatter deeper.

I sell a DVD and USB stick showing how to scrape. PM me or I have it on Ebay now. If you order fromme direct I will give you 10% off. Also if you go to You Tube and search Richard King Scraping you well see all sorts of shows on scraping my students put together. Rich
Thank you, Mr. King. I'll keep an eye out for them, they just keep going for prices that are still outside my range...for now.
10-4 on the side-to-side movement of the tool. I'm going to put in some real time with it this weekend and post up the results.

As always, thanks to EVERYBODY on this forum for the continued support and feedback!!
 

Richard King 2

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#10
Here is what I call "The King-Way Scraping Rules"

Moving sideways when going for a 12 point bearing: Before that you move the scraper blade in a circle about the size of a nickle.

1. Move sideways to get individual scrape marks. That means , Moving side ways so you have a scrape mark and then an opening of the same wwidth of the scrape mark..

2. Scrape individual lines behind the first line so they are separated by about 1/8" so you make many lines of individual lines and marks.

3. Scrape down hard so when you measure the scrape mach with a tenth indicator you get a minimum of .0002" to a Maximum depth of .001"

4. Hinge the part...meaning you check the rotation of points or the Airy points on each side of the part > 30% from each side.

6. Wipe your part your scraping and the surface plate or machine you have blued up with your hand before bluing as you can feel the dirt,
 

ThunderDog

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#11
...continuing the process...
A few things I have learned along the way.
  • Wiping the surface plate with YOUR HAND is IMPORTANT!!!
  • It finally makes sense, leave a distance between each row of scrape marks. This is approximately the same width/length of your scrape marks. This creates the checkered pattern and evens out the highs and lows. Hope that makes sense.
  • It's very easy to screw up the distance between scrape marks with a power scraper. You actually have to move the scraper relatively fast across the part to avoid this pitfall. **You will see me make this mistake in the video**
  • As pointed out before, DON'T make scrape marks directly side-by-side!!
The video documents the experience and is my attempt to scrape parallel. I've NEVER attempted this before. I am currently within a tenth over 12". I know the pros would say it needs more, but this is a huge accomplishment for my current experience level.

 
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Richard King 2

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#12
It says the video is unavailable. Sounds like you are getting it...:)
 

ThunderDog

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#13
DOH!!! It would help if I hadn't set it to private viewing.

It should be up and running now.
 

Richard King 2

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#14
Looks pretty good. But your what I call "Machine Gunning It" when you shorten the stroke and just move it side to side your hitting the high spots and holes, like shooting a machine gun. Some hit the target and some don't. When you hit a hole your making it worse. Also you will lose % of contact. I tell students to be a Sniper and aim at the high spots and you do what I call dive bombing and a combo of what your doing and dive bombing. So if I were you I would draw 1" squares all over your part using a fine point sharpie of sharp pencil. Then scrape only the bluing by diving in above the high spot and coming right out as fast as you can. After you "graph the part" with the sharpie or pencil and make 1" x 1" squares over 100% of the part, start scraping in one square by Dive Bombing and you remove all the blue in that square move to the next, etc, etc. Do that few times and you will see a huge difference and will be 50% high spots and 50% low spots.

When I taught in Germany, lol..I woudsay Stuka dive bombing and make the Stuka sound...they got what I was saying. Dive bombing used to be called Technique 40 or spot scraping. You have the blade directly over the spot about 1/4" above the part and have the back end of the scraper at about a 45 degr. angle and you move sideways and down and up like your doing a U shape but fast at the diagonal line only hiitting the high spots.

A combo is hitting 3 or 4 close blues next to each other before lifting out of the part. That way you avoid the holes and get more PPI and POP.
(points per inch and Percentage of Points) I have all this on my DVD and Flash drive stick I sell on Ebay or can give you and other members a deal if you want one. Message me. Next time you do a video and if you have learned anything from me on here, how about a thank you to me as the other You Tubers do. If your looking for the same number of low spots as high spots for the best bearing. Plus next time you measure with your tenths indicator measure the height of the high spot. It should be .0002" minimum to.001" maximum. Remember the more spots and the higher the spots, the longer it wears, whether it's a Straight-edge, box parallel like you have or a machine way. :) Rich
 
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ThunderDog

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#15
Mr. King, do you find many people switching back to a hand scraper for the dive bombing technique? Just curious.
I think I understand what you mean. Holding the power scraper, make a U shape movement left to right as you attack each high spot? Essentially, dive down into the high and pull up before you travel too far to the side, "crashing" into a low spot. Hope that makes sense.

10-4, on the plug in a future video. I actually edited out some video about your extensive knowledge, I didn't want you to think I was ripping you off or anything like that. Your assistance has been extremely helpful, thank you.
 

ThunderDog

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#16
BTW, I would be interested in buying the USB video. It's the least I could do for all of your feedback on this forum and willingness to help.
 

Richard King 2

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#17
It is possible with your saw scraper it may break if you dive bomb, but I can scrape better with a power scraper then by hand. (Biax that is, lol) I have scraped 60 PPI for the fun of it. I seldom scrape by hand anymore unless its on a small part with a narrow dovetail. ...and my name is Richard..... I see your in Maryland. some weekend you should drive down to Easton and visit the amazing machine shop that is driven by vintage overhead belts. Several of the volunteers scrape. http://www.tuckahoesteam.org/ Oh and my name is Rich not Mr. King to students and I consider you a student now..:) Rich
 

Richard King 2

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#18
No need to review it as several members have it now and several of the members have taken my classes. You can also learn a lot on You Tube. Just search Richard King Scraping and many of the students have done shows.... Rich
 

ThunderDog

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#19
It is possible with your saw scraper it may break if you dive bomb, but I can scrape better with a power scraper then by hand. (Biax that is, lol) I have scraped 60 PPI for the fun of it. I seldom scrape by hand anymore unless its on a small part with a narrow dovetail. ...and my name is Richard..... I see your in Maryland. some weekend you should drive down to Easton and visit the amazing machine shop that is driven by vintage overhead belts. Several of the volunteers scrape. http://www.tuckahoesteam.org/ Oh and my name is Rich not Mr. King to students and I consider you a student now..:) Rich
Lol! Got it.

I'm still searching for a Biax.
 
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