My Power Scraper (Video Included)

...continuing the process...
A few things I have learned along the way.
  • Wiping the surface plate with YOUR HAND is IMPORTANT!!!
  • It finally makes sense, leave a distance between each row of scrape marks. This is approximately the same width/length of your scrape marks. This creates the checkered pattern and evens out the highs and lows. Hope that makes sense.
  • It's very easy to screw up the distance between scrape marks with a power scraper. You actually have to move the scraper relatively fast across the part to avoid this pitfall. **You will see me make this mistake in the video**
  • As pointed out before, DON'T make scrape marks directly side-by-side!!
The video documents the experience and is my attempt to scrape parallel. I've NEVER attempted this before. I am currently within a tenth over 12". I know the pros would say it needs more, but this is a huge accomplishment for my current experience level.

 
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It says the video is unavailable. Sounds like you are getting it...:)
 
DOH!!! It would help if I hadn't set it to private viewing.

It should be up and running now.
 
Looks pretty good. But your what I call "Machine Gunning It" when you shorten the stroke and just move it side to side your hitting the high spots and holes, like shooting a machine gun. Some hit the target and some don't. When you hit a hole your making it worse. Also you will lose % of contact. I tell students to be a Sniper and aim at the high spots and you do what I call dive bombing and a combo of what your doing and dive bombing. So if I were you I would draw 1" squares all over your part using a fine point sharpie of sharp pencil. Then scrape only the bluing by diving in above the high spot and coming right out as fast as you can. After you "graph the part" with the sharpie or pencil and make 1" x 1" squares over 100% of the part, start scraping in one square by Dive Bombing and you remove all the blue in that square move to the next, etc, etc. Do that few times and you will see a huge difference and will be 50% high spots and 50% low spots.

When I taught in Germany, lol..I woudsay Stuka dive bombing and make the Stuka sound...they got what I was saying. Dive bombing used to be called Technique 40 or spot scraping. You have the blade directly over the spot about 1/4" above the part and have the back end of the scraper at about a 45 degr. angle and you move sideways and down and up like your doing a U shape but fast at the diagonal line only hiitting the high spots.

A combo is hitting 3 or 4 close blues next to each other before lifting out of the part. That way you avoid the holes and get more PPI and POP.
(points per inch and Percentage of Points) I have all this on my DVD and Flash drive stick I sell on Ebay or can give you and other members a deal if you want one. Message me. Next time you do a video and if you have learned anything from me on here, how about a thank you to me as the other You Tubers do. If your looking for the same number of low spots as high spots for the best bearing. Plus next time you measure with your tenths indicator measure the height of the high spot. It should be .0002" minimum to.001" maximum. Remember the more spots and the higher the spots, the longer it wears, whether it's a Straight-edge, box parallel like you have or a machine way. :) Rich
 
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Mr. King, do you find many people switching back to a hand scraper for the dive bombing technique? Just curious.
I think I understand what you mean. Holding the power scraper, make a U shape movement left to right as you attack each high spot? Essentially, dive down into the high and pull up before you travel too far to the side, "crashing" into a low spot. Hope that makes sense.

10-4, on the plug in a future video. I actually edited out some video about your extensive knowledge, I didn't want you to think I was ripping you off or anything like that. Your assistance has been extremely helpful, thank you.
 
BTW, I would be interested in buying the USB video. It's the least I could do for all of your feedback on this forum and willingness to help.
 
It is possible with your saw scraper it may break if you dive bomb, but I can scrape better with a power scraper then by hand. (Biax that is, lol) I have scraped 60 PPI for the fun of it. I seldom scrape by hand anymore unless its on a small part with a narrow dovetail. ...and my name is Richard..... I see your in Maryland. some weekend you should drive down to Easton and visit the amazing machine shop that is driven by vintage overhead belts. Several of the volunteers scrape. http://www.tuckahoesteam.org/ Oh and my name is Rich not Mr. King to students and I consider you a student now..:) Rich
 
No need to review it as several members have it now and several of the members have taken my classes. You can also learn a lot on You Tube. Just search Richard King Scraping and many of the students have done shows.... Rich
 
It is possible with your saw scraper it may break if you dive bomb, but I can scrape better with a power scraper then by hand. (Biax that is, lol) I have scraped 60 PPI for the fun of it. I seldom scrape by hand anymore unless its on a small part with a narrow dovetail. ...and my name is Richard..... I see your in Maryland. some weekend you should drive down to Easton and visit the amazing machine shop that is driven by vintage overhead belts. Several of the volunteers scrape. http://www.tuckahoesteam.org/ Oh and my name is Rich not Mr. King to students and I consider you a student now..:) Rich

Lol! Got it.

I'm still searching for a Biax.
 
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