My Power Scraper (Video Included)

ThunderDog

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Just finished this last night. This model already had variable speed, but now has variable/adjustable throw.
I have the cover off to show the new access port and the second pic. just shows my very first cuts being made on a chunk of steel.
Video will be put on my channel in the next couple of days. Video is now ready. :big grin::big grin:
I put it in this post to keep the thread tidy. Enjoy!!

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Oh Cool.
It would be nice to master scrapping.
So little time so many things to try and learn.
 
When you power scrape, you work the scraper side to side, try not to push it as you do with a hand scraper. It's hard to do until you get the hang of it. Put some downward pressure on it. You want it to dig in into the surface. When I say dig in, it should leave valleys that when measured, will be 2 to 5 tenths deep. (Word taken from Richard King). The length sticking out is about right, don't shorten it! If anything, take the bend out.
Now, will it hold up to what the real McCoy Biax will?
 
When you power scrape, you work the scraper side to side, try not to push it as you do with a hand scraper. It's hard to do until you get the hang of it. Put some downward pressure on it. You want it to dig in into the surface. When I say dig in, it should leave valleys that when measured, will be 2 to 5 tenths deep. (Word taken from Richard King). The length sticking out is about right, don't shorten it! If anything, take the bend out.
Now, will it hold up to what the real McCoy Biax will?
I'm sure it's no BIAX. But, the price is just about perfect;) for the current budget.
 
You are using it more like a flaker than a scraper. It seems to work pretty well as a flaker, from what I can see. Like 4gsr said, need to go side to side to do scraping, and need to have very good control over when you cut and where you stay away from, and how deep the cuts are. Practice some more with it and see what kind of progress you make. Interesting, inexpensive tool mod. I suggest that you leave the tool shank as long as it is, and leave it bent. If you make another shank, try making it more flexible (thinner shank). Richard teaches a "dive bombing" technique to do finish work with power scrapers, where you pick off the individual small high spots. Roughing up larger surfaces is a necessary prelude to getting the surface flat, but only a prelude. Then you must keep picking off the high spots while leaving the lower spots alone.
 
Pretty unique and more power to you on your scraper / saw but as a BIAX distributor and have been using a BIAX Power Scraper since 1972, I would say to keep an eye open on Ebay or place a wanted on the forum or other forums and by a BIAX. Keith Rucker bought a Green Motor 7ELM for $200.00 . Had a student buy on off the German Craigslist for $500.00 and after he made a step up transformer and freight was around $800.00

Thos blue BIAX Scrapers sell for $300.00 to $800.00 on Ebay and the usually have blades in the box.

I company I taught at made a similar version of your saw / scraper and it broke when it was used about an hour. Also as the other guys said move sideways. Also cut cross ways on machine marks so you don't make chatter deeper.

I sell a DVD and USB stick showing how to scrape. PM me or I have it on Ebay now. If you order fromme direct I will give you 10% off. Also if you go to You Tube and search Richard King Scraping you well see all sorts of shows on scraping my students put together. Rich
 
Pretty unique and more power to you on your scraper / saw but as a BIAX distributor and have been using a BIAX Power Scraper since 1972, I would say to keep an eye open on Ebay or place a wanted on the forum or other forums and by a BIAX. Keith Rucker bought a Green Motor 7ELM for $200.00 . Had a student buy on off the German Craigslist for $500.00 and after he made a step up transformer and freight was around $800.00

Thos blue BIAX Scrapers sell for $300.00 to $800.00 on Ebay and the usually have blades in the box.

I company I taught at made a similar version of your saw / scraper and it broke when it was used about an hour. Also as the other guys said move sideways. Also cut cross ways on machine marks so you don't make chatter deeper.

I sell a DVD and USB stick showing how to scrape. PM me or I have it on Ebay now. If you order fromme direct I will give you 10% off. Also if you go to You Tube and search Richard King Scraping you well see all sorts of shows on scraping my students put together. Rich
Thank you, Mr. King. I'll keep an eye out for them, they just keep going for prices that are still outside my range...for now.
10-4 on the side-to-side movement of the tool. I'm going to put in some real time with it this weekend and post up the results.

As always, thanks to EVERYBODY on this forum for the continued support and feedback!!
 
Here is what I call "The King-Way Scraping Rules"

Moving sideways when going for a 12 point bearing: Before that you move the scraper blade in a circle about the size of a nickle.

1. Move sideways to get individual scrape marks. That means , Moving side ways so you have a scrape mark and then an opening of the same wwidth of the scrape mark..

2. Scrape individual lines behind the first line so they are separated by about 1/8" so you make many lines of individual lines and marks.

3. Scrape down hard so when you measure the scrape mach with a tenth indicator you get a minimum of .0002" to a Maximum depth of .001"

4. Hinge the part...meaning you check the rotation of points or the Airy points on each side of the part > 30% from each side.

6. Wipe your part your scraping and the surface plate or machine you have blued up with your hand before bluing as you can feel the dirt,
 
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