My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

Hey Mike,

Total noob here, thanking you for the wiring diagrams and all the other info and videos that you took the time to post/make.

I'm getting the same combo of machinery as you and really appreciate all the help I can get!! :)

Best wishes,

JP
 
Glad to hear the information was helpful JP.

Also congrats on the new machines. I think you will be happy with them.

Do you have an ETA on them?

Mike.
 
zmotorsports said:
Glad to hear the information was helpful JP.

Also congrats on the new machines. I think you will be happy with them.

Do you have an ETA on them?

Mike.
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Yeah, I'm sending the deposit tomorrow for the two machines plus fixtures and accessories for both. Pretty darned hard hit on my finances to do this all at once, from scratch, but it's only money, right? ;)

I have to say right up front that if it hadn't been for your videos and this thread, I would very likely have spent a bunch of money on inferior equipment that I'd have ultimately been seriously disappointed and frustrated with - so thanks!

They're about 6 weeks out, as of now.

One question, is there any good reason to go with the more expensive Hitachi brand VFD for the mill (one-phase only in my shop) or can I just as well go with a cheaper brand, since I'll only be using it as a three phase, 60 HZ power supply and not as a speed control?

Definitely going with your exact components for the lathe VFD.

Respect,

JP
 
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Glad you found this site and my videos helpful and informative JP.

As for the milling machine, I simply went single phase on mine and have been very pleased with the variable speed of the machine itself. I also used the Hitachi VFD on the lathe and to be honest if you get it from Matt the price is hard to beat. I think if I were to have ordered the mill in 3ph I personally would still use the Hitachi VFD.

Mike.
 
TFC said:
Mike,
By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt. Is that the case? I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected. Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions. There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions. Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order. BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements. I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine. QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time. Thanks.
Tim
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I also just purchased a Precision Mathews 1340GT lathe and experienced the exact same problem as Tim describes above. I replaced the belt with a 5L280W as suggested by "zmotorsports" (the original belt is a B-25/635, a 25" belt that is too short). The 28" belt however is too long. When the belt is in the high speed position the motor sits to low causing the motor drive pulley to impinge on cover plate such that you can't get it back on. I called PM support and got absolutely no help. According to Matt by email "Most people replace the belts with link belts, they run smoother, if youre having a problem with the belt they can check that out for you."

Why not put the proper size belt on the machine in the first place? This is touted as a Taiwanese precision lathe.

So now I will try another size belt, 27" by my estimate. Maybe 26". Why am I wasting my time with this?
 
The stock belt on my 1340GT did work on both the low and high speed pulleys, unfortunately it immediately started to disintegrate. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, I did find that I needed both a BX24 and BX25 size belts for both pulley ratios (although I currently use mine as a single speed on the low speed speed pulley combination). The stock belt is somewhere in between the two. As there are many variables as to how the belts are sized and sit in the pulley, not all belts are the same exact size, so there is some trial and error until one finds something that works. It has been recommended that link belts may not be the optimum solution in this application, from what I understand they are unidirectional. Fine for saws and drill presses running in a single direction, but not optimal for bidirectional belted machines. I have used the Gates for 3+ years, I have had almost no wear or sheading, they run very smooth and wrap very well around the smaller motor pulley without taking a set.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/education/manuals/accu-link-belt-instructions/
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts

If using a VFD with the stock motor, then I suggest using a single pulley ratio and using the VFD maximum frequency to achieve the same top speed. You can flip the motor pulley, so that the larger motor pulley lines up with the larger headstock pulley. You will need a longer belt. This with running the motor to 90Hz will give you the same top speed as before, no belt changes. If the motor is changed to an inverter type, then one can use a 2.5-2.7" motor pulley and run the motor to 120Hz, which is what I do.

20160121_161748.jpg
 
mksj said:
The stock belt on my 1340GT did work on both the low and high speed pulleys, unfortunately it immediately started to disintegrate. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, I did find that I needed both a BX24 and BX25 size belts for both pulley ratios (although I currently use mine as a single speed on the low speed speed pulley combination). The stock belt is somewhere in between the two. As there are many variables as to how the belts are sized and sit in the pulley, not all belts are the same exact size, so there is some trial and error until one finds something that works. It has been recommended that link belts may not be the optimum solution in this application, from what I understand they are unidirectional. Fine for saws and drill presses running in a single direction, but not optimal for bidirectional belted machines. I have used the Gates for 3+ years, I have had almost no wear or sheading, they run very smooth and wrap very well around the smaller motor pulley without taking a set.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/education/manuals/accu-link-belt-instructions/
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts

If using a VFD with the stock motor, then I suggest using a single pulley ratio and using the VFD maximum frequency to achieve the same top speed. You can flip the motor pulley, so that the larger motor pulley lines up with the larger headstock pulley. You will need a longer belt. This with running the motor to 90Hz will give you the same top speed as before, no belt changes. If the motor is changed to an inverter type, then one can use a 2.5-2.7" motor pulley and run the motor to 120Hz, which is what I do.

View attachment 244720
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That is excellent information. I do not use a VFD so require full use of both speed ranges. I just put the 27" Gates belt on and it fits fine. In low range there is a 1" gap between motor and headstock and in high range there is 1/2" gap between the motor pulley and cover. I did notice that the fan end of the motor is 1/4" lower than the output end on my unit so the pulleys will never be aligned. There is no motor mount alignment feature, pretty sad. I adjusted the motor pulley to split misalignment difference between the two. All I can do is shim between the motor feet and the bracket and I'm not ready to go there yet. Other than that, life is good.

IMG_1555.rotated.resized.JPG
 
Mike,

I am a complete lathe newbie wannabe have just started researching lathes. This thread has been gold! Your information is excellent and I, like many others here, have decided on a 1340GT three phase and I will set it up like yours. Thanks for posting!!

I have never even used a lathe or a mill, but my return to long range benchrest shooting has firmly convinced me I need both. Just about everything involving LR BR is one off or custom. After making a COL case and polishing a sizing die in a drill press, I decided it was time. Also I have always wanted to do my own chambering work anyway instead of waiting 6–12 months for a gunsmith to get to it.

I realize there is a significant learning curve to go from zero to making BR quality chambers, but step one is getting a lathe, which I expect to do in the next couple of months.

Thanks again for this thread!
 
INTJ said:
Mike,

I am a complete lathe newbie wannabe have just started researching lathes. This thread has been gold! Your information is excellent and I, like many others here, have decided on a 1340GT three phase and I will set it up like yours. Thanks for posting!!

I have never even used a lathe or a mill, but my return to long range benchrest shooting has firmly convinced me I need both. Just about everything involving LR BR is one off or custom. After making a COL case and polishing a sizing die in a drill press, I decided it was time. Also I have always wanted to do my own chambering work anyway instead of waiting 6–12 months for a gunsmith to get to it.

I realize there is a significant learning curve to go from zero to making BR quality chambers, but step one is getting a lathe, which I expect to do in the next couple of months.

Thanks again for this thread!
Click to expand...

Glad to hear. It's nice to hear that this thread has been helpful in your decision.

Mike
 
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