My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

[mattthemuppet2]

what an awesome journey Mike, I've enjoyed following every bit of it. I admire the professionalism involved and it's quite the inspiration. "One day all this too may be yours" Nothing like using tools to make tools for your other tools too!

 

[zmotorsports]

what an awesome journey Mike, I've enjoyed following every bit of it. I admire the professionalism involved and it's quite the inspiration. "One day all this too may be yours" Nothing like using tools to make tools for your other tools too!

Thank you. I appreciate that.

Although I am far from a machinist, I sure love machining pieces and parts.

Mike.

 

[george wilson]

I can't expect you youngsters to know words like "continental system". I learned them back in the 50's.

I just leave my threading dial engaged all the time. After all,with a separate feed rod,it does not rotate unless you're threading,except for the minute amount,comparatively,when you are moving the carriage sideways.

6 jaw chucks are cool,but they do not grip as firmly as a 3 jaw. They are,as you likely know,for tubular work where you want to spread out the clamping pressure,and not dent the tubing.

 

[dickda1]

I've owned a Precision Matthews milling machine for about 2 years and love it. Matt gave me a great deal. If you can deal with problems chasing him down for questions you will be very satisfied with PM. I also have a Hitachi VFD with 2hp 3 phase for my lathe.

 

[Havoc]

Mike,

I am having problem with my lathe maybe you can help; my lathe is single phase 220V, after I wire in the power, jog button does not work, neither does the forward / reverse lever, I also have a coolant pump and that motor come on, when I push the button on the back of the contactors themselves, the lathe will turn without any problem, and if I engage power feed everything work fine. I have look at the contact switches the the lever operate and they seem to be OK, I have also check out the jog switch.....that seem to be OK also. What could be wrong?are my contactors bad?
If so can I buy the your old ones?

danny

 

[Ray C]

Mike,

I am having problem with my lathe maybe you can help; my lathe is single phase 220V, after I wire in the power, jog button does not work, neither does the forward / reverse lever, I also have a coolant pump and that motor come on, when I push the button on the back of the contactors themselves, the lathe will turn without any problem, and if I engage power feed everything work fine. I have look at the contact switches the the lever operate and they seem to be OK, I have also check out the jog switch.....that seem to be OK also. What could be wrong?are my contactors bad?
If so can I buy the your old ones?

danny

These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly. A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand. A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit. I've encountered these issues on several occasions...

The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact. If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position. If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position. Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position. Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.

FWIW: All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...


Ray

 

[Havoc]

These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly. A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand. A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit. I've encountered these issues on several occasions...

The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact. If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position. If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position. Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position. Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.

FWIW: All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...


Ray

Ray,

Thanks for the quick response, can you tell me where all of the safety switches are on my lathe?


Danny

 

[zmotorsports]

Danny, Ray gave some good items to check, mainly do a visual and make certain the relay(s) are pushed all the way into their sockets/bases and make sure the safety devices are passing voltage through them.

Without being right there it is kind of hard to diagnose, but if you are comfortable with a VOM, the wiring schematic is not too bad and shows all connections. Being very careful because this is 220VAC you are working around, but test the incoming voltage and verify the voltage is coming into the contactors. Then there should be a step down transformer for the control wiring, verify you are getting voltage into the transformer and out at 24VAC. Then confirm that 24VAC is going through the E-stop switch, the light on the front control panel should also be a good indicator.

Once that is all confirmed check that power is going to the drum swithc. From there it should go to the control side of the contactors.

Hope that should be enough to get you through the control voltage. Seeing as how you can push a contactor in and it runs tells me that the issue lies in the control voltage side/safety device.

Mike.

 

[Havoc]

These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly. A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand. A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit. I've encountered these issues on several occasions...

The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact. If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position. If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position. Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position. Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.

FWIW: All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...


Ray

Ray,

That was it...... thanks alot.


Danny

 

[Havoc]

Danny, Ray gave some good items to check, mainly do a visual and make certain the relay(s) are pushed all the way into their sockets/bases and make sure the safety devices are passing voltage through them.

Without being right there it is kind of hard to diagnose, but if you are comfortable with a VOM, the wiring schematic is not too bad and shows all connections. Being very careful because this is 220VAC you are working around, but test the incoming voltage and verify the voltage is coming into the contactors. Then there should be a step down transformer for the control wiring, verify you are getting voltage into the transformer and out at 24VAC. Then confirm that 24VAC is going through the E-stop switch, the light on the front control panel should also be a good indicator.

Once that is all confirmed check that power is going to the drum swithc. From there it should go to the control side of the contactors.

Hope that should be enough to get you through the control voltage. Seeing as how you can push a contactor in and it runs tells me that the issue lies in the control voltage side/safety device.

Mike.

Mike,

Thanks for your help, I got it up and going now, I just didnt press the reset switch in far enough.


Danny