my sheldon 1946

Its to clean you need to make some chips and get it dirty.
Nice looking old lathe!

Paul
 
this was when i first got her and cleaned her up, gave her a good bath oiled her up replaced a few bushings and broke her in on some castiron she just loved that lol:biggrin:
 
i hear you there, i was lucky she was sitting is a scrap pile at a old sawmill that i came across while rabbit hunting, i talked to the land owner and got her for a little bit of nothing and brought her home, thinking about going squirrel hunting and seeing if i cant bring home a milling machine:lmao:
 
she has the keyway all the way down the lead screw and i can cut ackme threads too:biggrin:
 
Nice find. Looks like a bit longer version of my little Monarch JR. Really seems to be a nice little lathe. As soon as I finish getting the treadmill motor setup on my mill I have one ready to put on my Junior.

Topstrap
 
she runs like a dream, i still have a few things to do to her but she is in running condition, i put a quick change tool post on here and a new drum switch bought a mt3 drill chuck and a cple live centers for the tail , was going to get a 3 jaw chuck but a member had a post on how to center round bar and it worked great for me so no 3 jaw chuck. i had trouble when i first got her the belt would keep slipping i cleaned the paint off the pulley face and put some special oil on the leather belt and that fixed it:biggrin: neets foot oil for leather
 
Hello

Most professional machinists will use a four jaw rather than a three in most cases, as with practice it is easier to get a piece accurate with a four jaw than it is with a three, I find the four jaw grips better, the time taken in changing from three to four and back when doing jobbing work combined with the extra weight of larger chucks on professional machines means it is often much quicker to center using a four jaw, finally in a professional shop you tend to find at least one moron that will damage three jaw chucks by clamping irregular stock in them as they don't realise or don't care about accuracy, so they just cant be trusted (the chucks or the morons:rolleyes:).

To reduce the drama of setting up dial indicators all the time I made an adaptor out of 12mm key steel that holds a dial indicator in one of my quick change tool post holders that way I simply drop the dial onto the post and I have it right where it needs to be for centring, without picking up swarf on my magnetic bases.

Best Regards
Rick
that was one of the first jigs i made was for my dial indicator:biggrin:
 
Back
Top