My South Bend 9 compound !! - Wha......aaaaahh !!

graham-xrf

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On this lathe, I had left the square tool post in position until now. It worked OK.
Nobody can see it - but now I know it's there! :eek 2:
I heard that if you heat the whole shebang until it's not quite red, you can lay weld in there, but that would be advanced stuff for me.
Sigh! Maybe eBay..?

20201022_191846.jpg

[P.S.The days of that green colour are also numbered].
:(
 
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Ouch. I've seen similar breaks on vises where the jaws are. If you have a mill, you can square up the broken piece and machine a piece of steel to fit. Drill and thread it so you can screw (countersink) the new piece to the cross slide. Then braze it together, clean it up, and you should be good to go. I'm about to tackle this same issue on my Wilton vice. I haven't brazed before, but there's a first time for everything. Good luck with whichever route you take!
 
It's often the other side that breaks; I have seen many a repair of this type.
-Mark
 
@Gaffer : Thanks - I am open to any suggestions. My machine stuff is modest right now. Two lathes, one in pieces. I do surely intend to have a mill-drill, and maybe, a surface grinder, but that must wait while I construct the shop outbuilding. If I got adventurous, and built it up with weld, it would be a (careful) filing job. Milling a add-on repair? Love to - but no mill just yet. This is not the sort of thing that can be kissed and made better with some JB-Weld!

I guess for now, it can lurk under there with a lick, and a promise, and the possibility of a quick-change toolpost, which will also hide the ouch!
Definitely, in the spirit of all that is this place, I will not leave it like that - or I would not have posted the yuk picture!
 
Use a nickel based rod to fill cast iron. Heating the part to around 300º F helps with minimizing distortions.
I take it you don't have the missing piece?
OK - though I expected it to have to be hotter, like not-quite red. Soldering iron hot?
The missing piece was probably swept up into a disposal dumpster in street in Southampton, but interesting that you mention it because it teaches me that these sort of bust off chunks can be brazed back.!

The metal is the famous stable semi-steel. I remember from long ago, being shown that cracked cylinders on steam locomotives were fixed by grinding out the cracks, then heating the whole thing up until getting on red, and then laying in welds, before a re-bore. The mind boggles at the thought of it.

If there were a mill, is making up an entire new compound a worthy thought? (Please forgive that the question betrays inexperience).
 
With time...lots of it...

You can file or grind away to make it have a flat surface.

Die grinders are good for this.

If you want to get real creative you could make some sort of fixture to hold a die grinder above the part, imagine the lathe is a mill table and the die grinder is the mill part.

If you can borrow a bench top drill press then position it to do same.

Now you position the compound correctly and you can use the handwheels on the lathe to move the compound to act as a milling operation.

Once you have a squared out area you then can make a replacement filler to bolt into place.

Watch for replacement on eBay too, one will show up 2 days after you finish.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
@Ulma Doctor : Thanks for the great pictures!
There is a special word for feeling better when comparing one's situation to something (worse) that has befallen others, but it escapes me.
That was a honest repair to a hell of a war wound! Not a simple stress break, but a huge chew-up from collisions at speed!
OK then - a repair is shall be.
 
@tq60 : This suggests a combination of your approach, and the "fill it up with metal" method as in the pictures from @Ulma Doctor .
So make a metal fitted repair, bolt it on, then weld it up. Doc's pictures look as if it was set into a plaster dam, heated up, and new bronze metal "poured on".
[So far - eBay has struck out!] :(
 
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