NATURAL RUST BLUE?

Easy, great finish, great durability, but sloooow. The part should be prepped using progressively finer grits but don't go finer than 300. 1. degrease part 2. cover with rustblue chemical available on internet. 3. Leave in damp environment until it gets a fine coat of rust. ( 2 to 8 hrs depending on humidity) 3. boil in distilled water for 30 minutes until it turns blue/black. 4. card with carding brush (super fine wire brush available on internet). Using FRESH distilled water every time, repeat as required (it will get progressively darker with each cycle) until it will no longer rust with the chemical. I've done 2 rifles and both times it refused to rust any further on the fourth cycle. Both rifles have been out in all day rain without a spec of rust. This system is almost foolproof and is the way custom rifles costing many thousands of dollars were finished back in the day. The only thing that will spoil the finish is oil or grease on the parts or in the water tank. I made a sheet steel tank that looks like a 3 ft piece of rain gutter. Good Luck!

This process works very well, but you can also use degreased 0000 steel wool to card with. Also you can make a steam pipe instead of boiling, (easier, cheaper, faster). Google rust blue and rust blue steam pipe.

Chuck
PS Sorry, I didn't see Whimsnag's post above.
 
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I suppose a bit like the towball on my trailer hitch ......polished in places when the trailer is hooked up,rest of the time it rusts a bit,some grease here and there too.............In my experience ,rust starts to progress rapidly when the flaky form develops,and holds moisture,scabs of rust will then eat thru the whole piece.......this is the theory with ships.......keep chipping away any loose rust,and serious damage is averted......Some steel is very rust prone too,Caterpillar makes its earthmoving bolts and nuts from a very resistant steel,Chinese black finish bolts in the same place rust away,Cat bolts are good with just surface rust.
 
Penetrol oil based paint additive is an excellent rust preventative for tools. I’ve used it on vises on outside benches and it really does a good job. Not for moving parts such as screws/nuts.... but for rough castings and tools it works very good. Linseed oil also works good, but not quite as good as penetrol oil based. And of course Penetrol really makes oils based enamel flow beautifully. Really good stuff to keep around the shop.
 
Penetrol oil based paint additive is an excellent rust preventative

Interesting, never would have thought of that. I’ve got a litre of here from years ago and but it’s now almost impossible to get oil based paint. Will have to give it a try, thanks for the tip!

-frank
 
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