Need a longer parting tool

It was a joke that didn't go over very well. Drill a 2" hole then you wouldn't hav much to part off.
 
One thing that has been said above, but that I want to emphasize, is to use the tailstock.
Gripping large stock in the reverse jaws means that the chuck has less of a grip (ergo, the stock has more stickout).

A few months back, I had used an annular cutter to make a 3 1/2" OD, 1.5" ID ring from a solid aluminum round. All went well until about halfway through parting the ring off. I was using an HSS T-style blade instead of my usual carbide insert, due to the depth. The friction from the parting operation caused the part to slowly creep out of the chuck - not enough to fling the stock anywhere, but enough to bind and snap the parting blade I've got a nice pic of it on my phone somewhere.
Lesson learned: always use a tailstock center or drill pad when working with those reversed chuck jaws if there's stickout.
 
I wish I could make a bigger center hole, but 5/8 is the fab table hole diameter to bolt it down :)
I'm going to see how the 3/32 acts and change up the jaws then. I think I calculated 3" diameter gets me 150ish RPM for 4xxxx series steel, not sure if I messed that up.
 
Did you take that piece out of the chuck?
 
Not yet, I'm at work....
 
Doesn’t look too bad the way it is in the chuck. Especially since you won’t be spinning it fast. I’d just add the tailstock to be safe and go for it.

489b0ec575689a9985702e9ee64374ed.jpg


I had to part this and I just parted till I had 1/2 diameter left then hit it with a hacksaw.
 
Your assistance is greatly appreciated :encourage:
Hope I don't have to do that very often. LOL
 
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