need brake for wheel - help?

Dave, the 2 front wheels are moveable but do not steer. You need to loosen one of the big thumbscrews on each wheel and position the wheels for the radius you want to travel. I think that to make smaller turns and curves he just kind of kicks it to where it needs to be. The single back wheel is offcenter and is fixed. It travels just outside of the newly formed curb.
The wheels are not driven. The machine moves by pushing concrete out the back (the new curb). Like an octopus squirting a jet of water - only a lot slower! When he moves it from place to place he picks the front 2 wheels up and pushes it around like a wheelbarrow. It is very light.
 
To clarify, what I am calling the front is the end with 2 wheels and has the cranks and big thumbscrews, the electric motor end.
The back is the business end. The end where the concrete curb comes out. That is the hopper end.
Not evident in the picture is that the back end only has the single wheel on the one side. In operation the other side of the machine rides on the new concrete (or slip form).
 
What about using a length of channel that is mounted upside down on the horizontal part of the hook (frame) with a pivot pin out to the right (ref post 7).
The channel would rest on the center of the tire with some overhang. Run a length of all thread along the inside of the channel with a square nut that is captured between the channel and frame. The nut would act as a wedge pulling or pushing the channel away from the frame and exerting pressure on the tire. Without pressure the channel would only rub lightly on the tire but crank up the pressure and it should allow you to adjust the hold well.
Key issues are size of the channel and position of pivot point so the channel slopes away from the pivot point.
Sorry I'm not good at drawings.
 
Tozguy, If I understand you right what I plan (if I can't find anything else) is basically what you are proposing, only without the channel. I'll just use the all thread to push (more or less) directly in the tire.
McMaster has several types of all thread. I'm looking at some that is 1/2" x 10. That is 1/10 of an inch per turn.
 
My idea has the all thread running inside the channel, which would protect it. Both would be in a horizontal position running under the horizontal part of the hook. There would have to be enough room between tire and frame for a nut and the wall of the channel.

It is more complicated than your idea. If you add a shoe to do the rubbing on the tire with your plan it should work. Maybe install the all thread at an angle to the tire so you would get finer adjustment of the braking.
 
Tozguy, I think I understand your idea now and I like it. I've ordered some 1/2" -6 all thread, nuts, knobs, etc. I figured the coase threads would stay clean better and make for less cranking. Should be here tomorrow. Still not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it!
 
Here is a simple solution. Look at BMX brakes for Y unions. It stops a 200lb adult going downhill at 45mph. It should work for you. Three wheeled bikes have a locking brake lever.

20180417_133124.jpg
 
The BMX brakes could be made to work but would take some doing. First, I need individual braking at each wheel. I don't think the existing wheel/tire combo would adapt easily to BMX clamping type brakes. Adding discs would involve adapting the wheels and would have to be mounted onboard. Besides, there are no handles so no where to put the levers.
 
The BMX brakes could be made to work but would take some doing. First, I need individual braking at each wheel. I don't think the existing wheel/tire combo would adapt easily to BMX clamping type brakes. Adding discs would involve adapting the wheels and would have to be mounted onboard. Besides, there are no handles so no where to put the levers.

Groundhog look at the pic closer. This is a more of a drum than disk setup. There is not a typical C-clamp. Its a canterleaver type press. It is a mountain board so it uses a tether.
 
Back
Top