Need Help - Grizzly H5940 Rotary Table.

J

joe_m

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I screwed up and ordered one of those 4" rotary table with indexing plates from Grizzly. It arrived today. Made in India, some parts look decent and some look like what you'd find on a shelf at the dollar store.

No instructions. I asked the online chat if they had anything that would help me assemble it, or unlock it, or use it, or anything else that would make it less than a paperweight and they didn't have any but said the technical support people could help me. Rather than kill a cell phone battery getting instructions online I thought I'd ask here first.

It came with an indexing plate installed - or at least attached. I don't know if it's on correctly as there is a piece between the crank and the indexing wheel that just spins around. There are two little toggle locks - one on top and one on the side. If I loosen one I can turn the table by hand. If I loosen the other I can turn the handle on the indexing plate a few degrees. That wheel seems to be some sort of cam, or it's seriously out of whack. That's all I've figured out. Googling brought me an instruction sheet from LMS for a different style table. Can anyone walk me through how to use the indexing plates, and how to remove them and put the other regular handle on before I chuck it out the back door onto the growing pile of broken and misfit toys?

thanks
Joe
 
you might want to look up phase-II 4" rotary table instructions. the Grizz version might be a phase-II model.

Another alternative is to find a Vertex 4" instructions model. I am quite positive this is not the table you have from your description (Vertex products seem to be finished quite well, and come with a pretty OK user manual attached) but worth the shot, and might give you some ideas.
 
Can you post a picture of that rascal ,several would help, i have a couple different types here maybe we can figure it out before you send it back to them with a nice explanation !
 
I clicked a link somewhere in this forum, can't find it now to save my life. The link was to instruction for a Grizzly 6" and there was enough info there for me to figure out how to get the dividing plates off and put the regular crank on . I figured out then how to use it regularly (clamp a piece in it and turn in circles). That was the main reason I needed it. It doesn't feel like high quality but it's all I can afford. Maybe if I put some more oil in it it will be a little smoother and won't sound like a cat getting petted with a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper.

I also figured out how to turn with the dividing plates but closed the link before I understood the whole x # of turns in such and such hole does whatever thing. And it didn't explain the cheap looking part that was between the crank and the dividing plate. I know eventually I'll find the link again and when I do I'll check it out.

The graduations on the measuring ring are, to me, interesting. I don't know how much Grizzly paid the guy in New Delhi to make it, but I could probably have gotten better results by paying a local pre-schooler two of those small boxes of chocolate milk to make the markings with a sharpie.

Of course I may exaggerate just a skosh for effect. If you're really interesting in seeing the type of road-kill I drag home, here's a link to the page on Grizzly's site:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Rotary-Table-w-Indexing/H5940

Joe
 
View attachment UsingARotaryTable.pdf Presently using those 6 inch rotary tables Enco sells. Have a 4 inch also, but I do not have indexing plates for the 4 inch. I have seen that Grizzly, and its a good rotary table. Partner down the street uses it.

It seems to me you have never used a rotary table. Mount it on your mill, bolt something down, take some cuts...etc.

I do not use my rotary table to cut any gears. Mostly for accurate circular bolt hole patterns to mount motors. Have made
some nice adapters with accurate 6 sides. Made some 4 1/2 spiders for my lathe, spacers, posts. Those spiders I made sure
look nice.

Charl
 
Joe

The plastic parts between the indexing plate and the crank arm are the sector fingers. You will note that there are bevels on the fingers that face each other. You use these fingers when you have to turn the crank less than a whole turn. Example to get the number of divisions you need it is necessary to turn the crank 3 turn and 10 holes. You spread the fingers so the distance between them is 10 holes. With one finger on the back side of the plunger pin to the direction your are going to rotate the crank. You pull and lock the plunger in to out position and make your 3 turn. Then you go past the first finger and insert the plunger back in the hole that is 10 holes further on. The other finger should be set so you can get the plunger in at 10 holes. Lock the table down and make your cut. Next and this is important. Rotate the fingers around in the direction of crank rotation so the first finger is again against the plunger. Make sure the fingers do not change the number of holes between them. Repeat 3 turns and 10 holes, cut, move fingers repeat till done.

The two levers are for engaging and disengaging the worm in the wheel and setting the amount of back lash.

Hope this helps

Dave
 
Grizzly G1049 table is very similar and has a manual you can download.
 
I hate to say it, but I had the 3 inch one and had to send it back.

The whole thing would not turn.

Yep and I never bought another on since then.

Jeff
 
Video_man said:
Grizzly G1049 table is very similar and has a manual you can download.
Click to expand...

The G1049 worm gear ratio is 1:190 the H59040 is 1:72 the vernier scale on the G1049 reads in 20 seconds the H59040 reads in 10 seconds.

I tore mine apart last night with the intentions of making it better I received this as a gift and I am bound and determined to make it better. There are some flaws that are going to be easy to fix and some that may prove to be a bit of a challenge I will post some photos. I thought about building one but most of the parts are here they just need some re-engineering.. Ray
 
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