Need someone to solid rivet some bike sprockets together

[MrJof]

Hi again,

I have some bike sprockets I need attaching to an aluminium carrier with approx M3 x 6mm flat head steel rivets. I don't trust myself to do this without a rivet gun as the margin for error isn't huge.

See attached for example of what I mean.

Many thanks as always

 

[RJSakowski]

Riveting is a fairly simple process. The rivet should be proud of the joined parts by enough to provide a suitable head. To much excess will result in the rivet bending off side. The back side of the rivet should be firmly in contact with a massive piece of steel to prevent the rivet from backing out when heading. Use a ball peen hammer or a pinch with a ball end and relatively light blows to set the rivet. The rivet head will mushroom, locking the rivet in place. Work your way around the head of the rivet to form the rivet head into a dome. Once a proper head is formed, a heavier blow or two centered on the rivet head will firmly set the rivet.

Rivet can be obtained at a well supplied hardware store, a farm supply store, or yo can turn your own on a lathe.

 

[savarin]

The sprockets I built up on my custom recumbents were bolted back (not riveted) together in the ratios I wanted. Never had a problem with them.
I've also bolted disk brake adapters to the hubs with no problems.

The chopper had a dual set of cogs on the crank, bolted, a mid set intermediate in the drive, bolted, and a standard set on the rear wheel, the rear disk brake used a bolted adapter.
The trike had bolted disk brake adapters on the hubs and bolted clusters on the front cranks and rear wheel.
The long low rider had bolted oval cogs on the front and bolted cluster and disk brake on the rear.
The tall bike was standard gears.
Never in all their use did the bolted arrangement ever come loose.
I guess what I'm saying is just because the original is riveted it doesnt have to be that way.

 

[tq60]

Use the deformed nut as lock nut and good to go.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[MrJof]

The sprockets I built up on my custom recumbents were bolted back (not riveted) together in the ratios I wanted. Never had a problem with them.
I've also bolted disk brake adapters to the hubs with no problems.

The chopper had a dual set of cogs on the crank, bolted, a mid set intermediate in the drive, bolted, and a standard set on the rear wheel, the rear disk brake used a bolted adapter.
The trike had bolted disk brake adapters on the hubs and bolted clusters on the front cranks and rear wheel.
The long low rider had bolted oval cogs on the front and bolted cluster and disk brake on the rear.
The tall bike was standard gears.
Never in all their use did the bolted arrangement ever come loose.
I guess what I'm saying is just because the original is riveted it doesnt have to be that way.

That's really great to hear. Unfortunately in my case I'm not sure bolted is possible; the heads have to be very low profile on both sides due to the chain and the fact these have 11 speed spacing which leaves about 2.2mm to fit the bolt in.

 

[MrJof]

Use the deformed nut as lock nut and good to go.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

What do you mean?

 

[Liljoebrshooter]

How about something like this?
Joe

 

[tq60]

What do you mean?

The nut is slightly aquished sideways on one end making not exactly round in the center.

Needs 2 wrenches to assemble.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Dabbler]

@MrJof The photo that you displayed in post #1 is for a Torx threaded fastener. In 50+ years of doing bicycle work, chain rings are always attached using a threaded fastener. I've made custom chain rings from the cheapest to the most expensive available.

Please take your chain rings and hub to a competent bicycle mechanic in London, and have them built. The fasteners and methods are custom to chain rings, and any competent bicycle mechanic will stock the correct parts.

If you are mixing manufacturers (as it appears), then a good mechanic will accommodate this. The fee should be quite reasonable, as you have provided the expensive parts.

 

[MrJof]

@MrJof The photo that you displayed in post #1 is for a Torx threaded fastener. In 50+ years of doing bicycle work, chain rings are always attached using a threaded fastener. I've made custom chain rings from the cheapest to the most expensive available.

Please take your chain rings and hub to a competent bicycle mechanic in London, and have them built. The fasteners and methods are custom to chain rings, and any competent bicycle mechanic will stock the correct parts.

If you are mixing manufacturers (as it appears), then a good mechanic will accommodate this. The fee should be quite reasonable, as you have provided the expensive parts.

Thanks. Sorry, I didn't get a notification for this. There's no Torx head to be found here, although the little dents look like it. Is the socket for the Torx driver hidden somehow? They definitely look like steel pins but I could be mistaken.