Need Wiring Help - Enco Mill 100-1525

For $100 I'd probably just buy one but at $800 I'd use a video camera to unwind & learn to rewind one myself.
 
So the motor was actually miswired when you got the mill, so really YOU didn't smoke the motor, the previous owner did.
Shame on them. Dummies. Good reason to recheck wiring when you buy used machinery. Don't assume anything is correct.
Mark S.
 
Sorry to hear about the motor's demise. What I would do is get a standard 56C frame 3 phase motor off eBay and make an adapter plate to fit it to the machine. Then get a VFD and toss the RPC. I know the urge might be to get a single phase motor but resist. Knob controlled speed is too nice. On eBay, a good name-brand (sometimes even new) 3-phase motor can be under $100. Don't worry about getting one that's "inverter rated". Any modern 3-phase motor will be fine on a VFD in a home shop environment. For the VFD, I probably wouldn't bother with eBay because new ones are not that expensive. A nice Hitachi is around $200.


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Ya know, the thought crossed my mind. But how would I make an adapter with no mill?
 
You might be able to find an exact replacement motor on ebay. This motor might just drop in: http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT...ING-MACHINE-VSM3-SP-STEP-PULLEY-/401200615543

Mill motors are normally ''special'' in that they have a non-standard end bell for mounting and an odd shaft length (extra length) and diameter. Many are a roughly equivalent to a NEMA 145TC frame motor or the metric equivalent.

I suspect your motor is a 2HP. First measure the shaft then compare to a NEMA 145TC frame motor. It also may be a metric motor.

You absolutely need a reversing motor, when you shift into back gear, the spindle rotation reverses relative to the motor.

I would go with a 3 phase motor and a sensorless vector VFD, that way you get a very wide speed range.

This is good advice, I will follow up on this and see what I can find.
 
But how would I make an adapter with no mill?


Pull the motor off of your lawn mower and lash it up to your mill. :grin::grin:

Sorry, I just couldn't resist that one.:p
 
I found a motor dimensional chart on Grainger, that'll be a good reference to look over. I'll post it up along with the wiring schematic I drew up today for the switch and motor from my experience with this mill. As soon as the photos are accepted I'll post em up
 
Arg. Arg, I say. Got the motor off, but the step pulley is stuck on the shaft and won't come off. It is blind on the end so I can't use a gear puller. Using a lever and sledge hammer didn't get it off. I guess I can try heating it up with a propane torch and then hitting a pry bar with the hammer again...
 
These little 8x36 mills are 1.5HP, not 2. My motor plate says "1 kW". Here's a decent looking eBay motor example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/131666749226
Yes, you'd have make some adapter hardware, but it ain't $800.

Re the stuck pully. Can you drill the blind cap so you can then use a puller? Might be less destructive and risky than beating on it with a hammer. It's pretty easy to crack the pully since I think it's cast.


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Ya know...I could rough out a ring from 1/2" aluminum plate on my vertical bandsaw and drill/tap the two sets of holes needed for an adapter. After I get the mill running again I could make a decent adapter to replace the saw-cut one.

Things that make ya go "Hmmmmm."

I'm thinking about a propane torch and two ball-joint fork tools to pry the pulley off with, if that won't do it then yeah, I'll drill out the end of it and try a 3-leg puller, or a 20,000 # hydraulic bearing press that my buddy next door has in his auto shop. I'll get that sucker off one way or another.
 
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