NEW ACRA 1640TE

Maybe your “sand rubies” are the remains from the anode rod in the hot water tank. Just went through this at the girl friends place. Flushed the tank via the bottom drain and got a couple cups of sand!

Nah, These are tiny red granite sand looking spheres very consistent in shape and size.
I recently replaced the water heater, The well we're on is notorious for depositing these tiny sandy red spheres. I often have to flush the main inlet strainer as well as the aerators on the facets. First time the washer got plugged. What I probably need is a main inlet filter. I suspect the water level has dropped in the aquifer and is stirring up sediment, or the inlet filter/strainer on the well pump needs replacement. The "PE" code (clothes washer) indicated a water level pressure sensor/switch error. I opted to check the solenoid valves first and found the issue on the cold side. I'm sure some technician would have remove and replace the pressure switch charge us a stupid price then called it good only to throw the code again.
I got seventeen years out of the last water heater by flushing it quarterly. Definitely need to flush this appliance as the occluded solenoid valve was the cold supply so the water heater is trapping the rest.
Tip of the day (TOTD)
Like pdentrem states fellas, flush your water heaters!
 
Will you please hurry up and put a big greasy paw print on that thing already...

Chips! Now...

;)

Ray
 
Haha, trust me Ray, I'm chomping at the bit to do so.

Paco
 
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My memory is beter than I thought, remembered to get some photo's .
You need enough slack in the cable to swing the compound.
IMG_3951.jpg


They added a spacer at the end of the scale to keep it back of the t-slot.
IMG_3952.jpg


IMG_3954.jpg


The readout sums the compound and the carriage or displays either, with that Zs button, The DRO Pro's one I had on the Colchester read the sum all the time but you could unplug one and read the other by itself.
IMG_3953.jpg


Hope that helps, can get more detail if you need it.

Greg
 
Thanks Greg,
That helps, man that Summits a beast, nice ! Appreciate you sharing. The EL 700 can turn off the summing feature so thats cool. Gonna study different options tomorrow when I get off work. Probably post up efferent options and request opinions from you all.
Paco
 
Thanks Paco. Its been a great lathe. Made in Poland. Nice fit and finish as yours. Weighs 6400 pounds, 15 3/4 wide bed, 20 - 2000 rpm so it will do the big and small stuff. 10 hp motor, loves to eat metal though I rarely work it to its capacity. 60 - 1/4 tpi or .5 to 200 mm thread pitch. Even has a rapid feed motor on the carriage , good thing its heavy to crank, the scale on the compound is essential when working to a shoulder.

Greg
 
Here you go. The letters L and H represent Low and High speed position followed by the gear selection combinations.
View attachment 258364
The QCGB.
View attachment 258365
The lead screw threading dial rotates to to disengage when not in use.
View attachment 258366
Rotated in position for use.
View attachment 258367

Paco

Hi Paco
That sure is a nice lathe. Would love to own a Taiwanese machine of that quality.

One particular thing that caught my eye was the layout of threading and feed chart. Why don't all lathes set it out like this. So easy to choose and set up a required pitch. I am going to make a similar chart for my lathe.
I am enjoying your journey setting up your new lathe
Cheers
Ron ( from Downunder)
 
Hi Ron,

Thanks man,
This chart is laid out different than my 1440 which I have gotten use to over the years.
The vertical chart on the Arca does seem less busy.

Paco
 
Just got home from work and mocked up the scale on the compound. I wanted to get some outside observations and feed back.
Fist off, the scale will need to be cut to size, no big deal. I will need to cut the aluminum extrusion 25/32" shorter the the overall length if the compound. Once the end cap is screwed back on the scale will run end to end with just a slight setback. The gib is located on the headstock side when the scale is perpendicular to the spindle so the scale will be mounted on the right side or farthest from the chuck in this position.
The other consideration is the large tool post T nut. I want to have enough clearance for the shield/cover (installed) to remove slide the said T out from either side. The reader head cabling will also come from the front of the machine like Greg's (f350ca) lathes. This should provide better cable management when the compound is used parallel (0º) to the spindle and keep the cable from harms way.
Here are some photos. I hope I'm making sense to you guys. Please opine any and all pros/cons.
I'm not in a hurry to start drilling/tapping and cutting but would like to get started by noon.

Besides the tool post T nut, I also need clearance for the 14mm box wrench to loosen/tighten compound seen here.
In this photo, I have room to lower the scale to make way for the cover/shield.
IMG_2985.JPG

I rotated the compound parallel to the bed and used two 1.5" parallels to set the scale on. This put the top of the scale a solid .125" below the T-nut but the bottom of the scale closer to the 14mm nut (still useable). The gaol here; I want the maximum amount of access to the 14mm nut and still have clearance to remove the tool post. The cover measures .053" thick and mounts to the top of the scale so a pair of feeler gauges set with .063" where used between the parallels and the scale, clamped and a reference line marked on the compound. The scales end caps mounting holes are slotted for final adjustment during install. I think I will remove the compound and drill/tap on the mill. The depth of the hole to be tapped is critical as the dove tail is within .450-.500" (eyeballing).
IMG_2988.JPG

The read head mounting bracket will be designed once the scale is mounted and should rest solid to the fixed lower portion of the compound.
Let me know what you good folks think. I believe I'm on the right track, but the more eyes to better.

Thank you in advance for any opinions.

Paco

IMG_2986.JPG
 
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