New G4003G Owner, have questions......

Thanks for letting me know on the taper attachment! Glad you got your lathe, I remember when I first got mine, for the price these lathes are great! Again like I said in another post be CAREFUL around the paint, when doing the clean up! Mine was real fresh, and I took a little off, on the tread shift levers in front! I was using petrolem based cleaner, I see in the manual Grizzly lists the orenge based cleaner, probably close to like ZEP ID Orange?

Enjoy Bob in Oregon

One more thing, I was wondering if anyone has found a good touch up paint for these machines? I am almost completely color blind, so it's hard for me to match colors! Its a real pain, The op manual lists epoxy paint, on these for paint, My GF says the krylon almond matches pretty good, but who would I be to tell if it does! If it does match, I was kind of running it thru my head, if the appliance, almond epoxy might also be close, you also can get that, it in the small brush type touch up bottles? Thanks

Bob,

I had some paint that came off during set up and cleaning as well. Someone (can't remember who) advised that Grizzly will send OEM paint if requested. I did so and had the green in two days. The almond/beige is on backorder but will ship when it comes in stock. Oh, and no charge for the paint or shipping. Fantastic service after the sale!

I couldn't be more pleased with their customer service. I wish all companies were like that.
 
With the time it takes to ship these machines over here,I can see no reason why the paint should still be so tender it comes off ! Something not right there. I bought 2 Taiwan made Grizzly 16x40" lathes in 1986 and did not have some of these issues that I keep seeing pop up in posts about new Grizzly lathes.
 
With the time it takes to ship these machines over here,I can see no reason why the paint should still be so tender it comes off ! Something not right there. I bought 2 Taiwan made Grizzly 16x40" lathes in 1986 and did not have some of these issues that I keep seeing pop up in posts about new Grizzly lathes.

George,

Yes I thought the same thing, by the time it gets here from the boat ride, it should be cured! I have also noticed the same thing on some of the HF stuff! When you open the box it has a heavy paint smell, and finger nail will dig into the paint, also noticed like on my HF engine stand after a year, the paint has that dull chalk type look, not very inherent of "Epoxy Paint". Bob in Oregon
 
It's garbage paint... The quality of paint is another option you pay for when you contract to have machines built. If you just specify a pantone shade number, they will use whatever paint they can get their hands on as long as it matches the color. Some of the better importers will specify exactly what paint to use and even setup the supply chain to make sure all components are coming from the importers preferred supplier.

I had to do this for medical device equipment (in this case, they were just simple plastic covers and housings for electronic oral and rectal thermometers). They were produced 1/4 million quantity at a time. My company had all components of our choice drop-shipped to the assembler in China. Our suppliers sent directly to my company any change notifications if raw materials changed and we would instruct the factory (after we tested the changed components) that they were allowed to use the different components when they arrived.

It's all about what you arrange and pay for at the factory. If you want it and are willing to pay for it, you'll get it. Otherwise, you'll get none more -and possibly less on any component that is not exactly specified.

EDIT: In my example, I'm not saying this is exactly how all shop equipment is built but, it's an example of how you arrange to do manufacturing in China in-general... Everything is negotiable.

Ray


George,

Yes I thought the same thing, by the time it gets here from the boat ride, it should be cured! I have also noticed the same thing on some of the HF stuff! When you open the box it has a heavy paint smell, and finger nail will dig into the paint, also noticed like on my HF engine stand after a year, the paint has that dull chalk type look, not very inherent of "Epoxy Paint". Bob in Oregon
 
Bob,

I had some paint that came off during set up and cleaning as well. Someone (can't remember who) advised that Grizzly will send OEM paint if requested. I did so and had the green in two days. The almond/beige is on backorder but will ship when it comes in stock. Oh, and no charge for the paint or shipping. Fantastic service after the sale!

I couldn't be more pleased with their customer service. I wish all companies were like that.


Thanks for that advise, and yes I have to say, Grizzly has been very helpful whenever I have a problem. I did e-mail them Friday, asking them about getting a regular electrical schematic, and not the block diagram, or pictures, that are in the book. They said they did not have one, when I removed my electrical cover plate there was a sticker inside the door, with a regular electrical schematic on it, I took a jpg picture of it and converted it to a PDF for "future use" should I ever need it! I also just wanted to make sure everyone knows this, even with the lathe turned OFF the Power Transformer inside the lathe, it creates the 24 VAC for the work lamp, and the 110 VAC for the control power for the relays, from the 220 VAC, is always ON. That is why your work lamp will always operate, no matter what position the control panel is it! When I put my mill and lathe in, I came out of my wall with the power and went right to a fused handle type disconnect switch. That way when I am done with my machines I can turn the disconnect off, and even lock it should I need to! the transformer in the control panel is NOT drawing much power just being connected to the line, but it is still making a little heat, I know some of these electrical components are not "military spec" or anything so I figured why have it powered if I don't need to. You do not have to have this disconnect to meet code here, but its a nice way to kill or lock the power off. And pulling the plug on the cord out of the wall every time is a pain! Also I have a 18 month old grandson, named Dexter and he is all over out here some times, and I have seen him eyeing the thing so a lock in the future will probably be in order!

Bob in Oregon


 


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It's garbage paint... The quality of paint is another option you pay for when you contract to have machines built. If you just specify a pantone shade number, they will use whatever paint they can get their hands on as long as it matches the color. Some of the better importers will specify exactly what paint to use and even setup the supply chain to make sure all components are coming from the importers preferred supplier.

I had to do this for medical device equipment (in this case, they were just simple plastic covers and housings for electronic oral and rectal thermometers). They were produced 1/4 million quantity at a time. My company had all components of our choice drop-shipped to the assembler in China. Our suppliers sent directly to my company any change notifications if raw materials changed and we would instruct the factory (after we tested the changed components) that they were allowed to use the different components when they arrived.

It's all about what you arrange and pay for at the factory. If you want it and are willing to pay for it, you'll get it. Otherwise, you'll get none more -and possibly less on any component that is not exactly specified.

EDIT: In my example, I'm not saying this is exactly how all shop equipment is built but, it's an example of how you arrange to do manufacturing in China in-general... Everything is negotiable.

Ray

Thanks for the information, I sure would be curious to see the factory, where they actually build these import machine’s like the lathe’s, mill’s, etc, at? I wonder how many they produce per year in a factory? I think the Shop Fox and the Grizzly have to be made at the same factory! The G4003G Grizzly, and the M1112 Shop Fox look very close to the same, a few minor differences. I also have seen a couple of lathes, that look like, they are very close to the, Precision Mathews, PM1236 that Matt sells. It would be interesting to see the level of tools, either hand or automated, they use to make these machines? Maybe we would not want to see the casting's being poured, and finished, there! Bob in Oregon
 
How many per year... thousands. Automation?... things are semi-automated except for stuff like gears, leadscrews etc and those are not made at the factory. There are dedicated suppliers for stuff like that. The motors come from different suppliers -have no idea how automated that is.

All importers know who else's equipment are made in the same factory. You'd be surprised at how much "intermix" is going on. In many cases, the base chassis components are (or virtually so) the same. Maybe some holes are drilled in different places, some have higher requirements for grinding, heat treating, gears and gear-ratio options, spindle bore diameters and motor options... Also, there are a couple tiers of equpment such as hobbyist + light industrial and then there's professional industrial stuff. Similar "intermix" happens with the professional stuff but not as much.

It's highly inappropriate to name names and for the most part, a given importer does not know exactly what another importer is paying for but, when an importer looks at another's machine, they can tell exactly. -And BTW, this whole business of what I'm discussing is not some deep, dark secret... Any one of thousands of people in the US who have overseas manufacturing knows the score.

Finally, I would never, ever talk about the specifics of what "I think" other companies are paying for but rather, only talk about what I know about for one given manufacturer. And finally, I can't stress enough that what really matters is how much pre-delivery inspection the importer does before sending to their customer. When I did medical devices, depending on what it was, we did between 5% and 100% QC checks. The little black funnels for nasal and ear canal inspection -big deal... easy to make, low risk -only 5%. Neonatal heart monitor enclosures, darn right, 100% inspection before we shipped them.

I'll talk to Matt to see if I can share some pictures of his factories.

EDIT: In case it's not clear... yes Lathe from company A, could come from the same factory and be the same base model as from company B -but the two lathes might have totally different quality levels.


Ray



Thanks for the information, I sure would be curious to see the factory, where they actually build these import machine’s like the lathe’s, mill’s, etc, at? I wonder how many they produce per year in a factory? I think the Shop Fox and the Grizzly have to be made at the same factory! The G4003G Grizzly, and the M1112 Shop Fox look very close to the same, a few minor differences. I also have seen a couple of lathes, that look like, they are very close to the, Precision Mathews, PM1236 that Matt sells. It would be interesting to see the level of tools, either hand or automated, they use to make these machines? Maybe we would not want to see the casting's being poured, and finished, there! Bob in Oregon
 
How many per year... thousands. Automation?... things are semi-automated except for stuff like gears, leadscrews etc and those are not made at the factory. There are dedicated suppliers for stuff like that. The motors come from different suppliers -have no idea how automated that is.

All importers know who else's equipment are made in the same factory. You'd be surprised at how much "intermix" is going on. In many cases, the base chassis components are (or virtually so) the same. Maybe some holes are drilled in different places, some have higher requirements for grinding, heat treating, gears and gear-ratio options, spindle bore diameters and motor options... Also, there are a couple tiers of equpment such as hobbyist + light industrial and then there's professional industrial stuff. Similar "intermix" happens with the professional stuff but not as much.

It's highly inappropriate to name names and for the most part, a given importer does not know exactly what another importer is paying for but, when an importer looks at another's machine, they can tell exactly. -And BTW, this whole business of what I'm discussing is not some deep, dark secret... Any one of thousands of people in the US who have overseas manufacturing knows the score.

Finally, I would never, ever talk about the specifics of what "I think" other companies are paying for but rather, only talk about what I know about for one given manufacturer. And finally, I can't stress enough that what really matters is how much pre-delivery inspection the importer does before sending to their customer. When I did medical devices, depending on what it was, we did between 5% and 100% QC checks. The little black funnels for nasal and ear canal inspection -big deal... easy to make, low risk -only 5%. Neonatal heart monitor enclosures, darn right, 100% inspection before we shipped them.

I'll talk to Matt to see if I can share some pictures of his factories.

EDIT: In case it's not clear... yes Lathe from company A, could come from the same factory and be the same base model as from company B -but the two lathes might have totally different quality levels.


Ray

Yes thanks for all that info, makes more since now, Just looking at the lathe sales picture, pretty much means O, if you haven't had the chance to inspect the machines, or get the imformation from someone who has the machine then!

Bob in Oregon
 
That sums it up pretty well.

Track record says a lot too... "swings" in quality over the long term is meaningful. -And this does not apply to just machine equipment but to all manufactured products.

Ray



Yes thanks for all that info, makes more since now, Just looking at the lathe sales picture, pretty much means O, if you haven't had the chance to inspect the machines, or get the imformation from someone who has the machine then!

Bob in Oregon
 
About electrical schematics: They CAN be totally BOGUS!!!! I had a mill drill probably made in Taiwan even,because I got it about 1980. The electrician wanted to run it on 220 for better performance(I hadn't noticed less performance on the 110 I'd been using for over 2 years),but I'm no electrician,so said o.k.. He went by the schematic and couldn't get the thing to work. There were 6 wires. He kept changing wiring,flicking the switch on and off to see if it was working. Half the time the mill ran backwards. Finally,he gave up. Somehow,in a moment of I still don't know what,I said to wire it thus and so,because it was the only combination he hadn't tried. He raised his eyebrows at me and wired it as I suggested. The mill ran properly!!! I still don't know how I'd kept track of all those changes!! I can only do simple wiring,like light switches,reversing motors,etc.. Anyway,the final solution had NOTHING to do with the wiring diagram.

I THINK those Chinese might just sometimes grab the closest wiring diagram and stick it in your machine. (I doubt most of them have any knowledge beyond the little task they do.) And THIS was in a TAIWAN made machine!! A good machine I never had any problems with other than the bogus diagram.

My advice to you is: LOOK AT THE ORIGINAL DIAGRAM before you alter it to change to another voltage. This way,you can at least put it back to what it was if needed. These lathes have much more complex diagrams than my mill drill did,so be extra careful.

I say most of them have little knowledge beyond their assigned task not without reason: There was a bench lathe posted somewhere,which had the rear foot put on sideways,so that the 2 mounting holes were in line with the bed of the lathe,instead of being front and back!! The foot pattern apparently was separate from the bed,and would still "fit" turned sideways. They sold it like that!
 
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