new lathe won't start

[MikeWi]

I have my PM1236 set and ready to go, but ran into a snag. The safety switch for the cover was broken, so of course it didn't know the cover was on. it separated on a seam, so I was able to glue it and tape it together, and the switch guts are pretty robust so this works until a replacement is found. Only trouble is it still won't turn on. I have power at the machine, and the on light glows, and the work light turns on, but that's it. The foot brake has been adjusted so that it's switch is engaged until the brake is operated, so that looks good. The lathe was shipped with it's cover loose and it wore a hole in the cover of the E-switch, but that's really just a cover for the wiring, not the switch it's self so that doesn't seem likely to be the trouble. Anybody know the schematic for the panel so I can hunt around with a meter?

 

[Richard King]

I want to first say, if the switch is broken, better safe the sorry to replace it.

I have no idea how old your machine is, but many (I'm generalizing) of the new machines built today have several interlocking safety switches on doors, The safety cover that goes over the chuck, some have low oil switches. Some of the new emergency off buttons have to be turned and pulled out, You could check the transformer and see if all the leads coming out have 110V, check and see if there is a reset on the motor starter that is out. If your careful and have a non metalic round dowel you could try to push in the motor starter and see if it starts....Hopefully someone else has an answer. Might have to wail until Monday and call the dealer service desk. Happy hunting. Rich

 

[Ray C]

First, the red front panel switch must be pulled-out. The side cover switch must be depressed and the ebrake switch must be adjusted properly. That covers all the basics.

Does the indicator light on the panel light-up? When you try to turn it on with the op-rod, do you hear relays clicking? If so, either the cover switch or ebrake is not right. For the operating condition, the ebrake switch must have no pressure pushing-up on the roller. When you press the ebrake, it pushes up on the roller and you can hear the switch click. I do not know if it's electrically normally open or closed in the operating position.

Also, once the ebrake or front panel switch has been tripped, you need to operate the op-rod a second time to reset all the relays.

FWIW, I had to fiddle with my ebrake switch for a while when I first got mine. Sadly, I do not have a schematic.

Ray

 

[MikeWi]

When you try to turn it on with the op-rod, do you hear relays clicking? If so, either the cover switch or ebrake is not right. For the operating condition, the ebrake switch must have no pressure pushing-up on the roller. When you press the ebrake, it pushes up on the roller and you can hear the switch click. I do not know if it's electrically normally open or closed in the operating position.
Also, once the ebrake or front panel switch has been tripped, you need to operate the op-rod a second time to reset all the relays.
Ray

Oops I didn't mention the panic button, but it's set correctly. everything else was already covered. Interesting what you say about the ebrake though! That's the kind of thing I was wondering about. On my lathe, pressing the pedal draws the bar away from the switch, but you're saying it should be the opposite. Could have just been assembled wrong I guess. All I had to do was flip the bar up through the table and connect it. I'll look at that. No sound at all when I move the op-rod up or down or to neutral.

 

[Ray C]

One other thing to look for...

The switch for the op-rod is visible under the lathe directly below and between the 4 leadscrew selector dials on the front panel. It's a collar switch that goes around the op-rod and I believe it has 4 wires with one neutral and the other three carry the neutral, forward and reverse signal. It's possible something snagged those wires during shipping. Check e'm out.

Ray

- - - Updated - - -

Ouch, it's possible I may have mislead you. I have VFD on mine and I also re-rigged the ebrake lever to work with a different bench. Given that, I may have changed the orientation of how mine works. BTW: The brake pads will operate either by tugging or pushing on the lever. There's a cam in there. Center position is no-brakes. Either other way spreads the brake shoes apart.

Ray

Oops I didn't mention the panic button, but it's set correctly. everything else was already covered. Interesting what you say about the ebrake though! That's the kind of thing I was wondering about. On my lathe, pressing the pedal draws the bar away from the switch, but you're saying it should be the opposite. Could have just been assembled wrong I guess. All I had to do was flip the bar up through the table and connect it. I'll look at that. No sound at all when I move the op-rod up or down or to neutral.

 

[MikeWi]

Found the problem! It was the cover safety switch after all. It was easy to reattach the plunger and you would never suspect the switch itself if you saw it, but neither the N/O or the N/C contacts work. Bypassed it and now it's running. Already emailed PM for a replacement.

 

[Ray C]

Yaaaa! OK, so it was 2AM when you informed us? You still up cutting metal or did you finally drop?

Found the problem! It was the cover safety switch after all. It was easy to reattach the plunger and you would never suspect the switch itself if you saw it, but neither the N/O or the N/C contacts work. Bypassed it and now it's running. Already emailed PM for a replacement.

 

[MikeWi]

No, that was sent from bed actually lol. Found it earlier but I was up late reading and decided I may as well post an update as long as I was up. Smart phones are handy little toys.

 

[Ray C]

OK, glad you're up & running. So, did you cut some metal? How'd it go?

No, that was sent from bed actually lol. Found it earlier but I was up late reading and decided I may as well post an update as long as I was up. Smart phones are handy little toys.

 

[slingshot]

Hey mike

I'll have to confess that the very first thing that I done to my lathe before even running or cleaning it was to by pass the cover switch by tying the two wires together. I know that I am going to here it from other safety concerned people lol.

I will have to admit there are some safety switches on some things that are important, most are with kids in mind.I am only speaking of myself and for myself, but to me safety switches are for idiots to help the manufactures against law suits. That's just my two cents and by the way if you feel more comfortable with a safety switch by all means......

I bought a jd riding lawn more a few years ago that was loaded with safety switches,I just could not stand hitting a bump and the motor stalling because the seat bounced up a little and not being able to crank w/o the brake being depressed ect ect...Basically Safety switches have there place on some things and others well that's up to the individual.


JB