Yes I understand good intentions, and bigger bigger bigger. I have a all in budget, and it’s a max 10G. Was basically wondering if the two machine were a good starting point or not ( I know there’s better ). Still haven’t seen any comments on vise or rotary. Thanks everyone.
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New Mill and Lathe
- Thread starter BigCasino
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,063
I have two PM machines (I've had 3 total), the 1340GT and 935TS and love them. PM is great to deal with if a issue ever arises. And I don't know of another vendor who offers warranties like PM does.
I do pistolsmithing and general hobby stuff and if the PM30 had been available when I decided to upgrade my bench mill, I'd have bought it in a heartbeat. I believe it to be a good compromise of cost/size/capability for what I do. The 935 knee mill is easier to do some operations on, but I could have saved a bunch of money that could have gone for other things had the PM30 been available. I know of custom pistolsmiths building $4-6k 1911s on bench mills. And while I can think of a few things that I'd find easier to set up on a mill with a larger table, I manage OK with what I have.
I don't need a 1340 lathe for pistolsmithing from a size perspective, but I wanted a quality Taiwan-made lathe as I have need of sub-thou dimensions on some things so I 'bit the bullet' so to speak and went for the best lathe I could afford.
I run a 5" mill vise on my 9x35 table and find it to be a good size for what I do. I have been told that the Homge vise that Matt sells is pretty good stuff, so that is what I'd get if I was shoping for a vise for a PM30.
I also have a 6" rotary table that can be a bit small for some things, but again I manage. Every time I think I want a larger rotary table I go pick up my BS-1 dividing head and quickly change my mind. I'm pretty sure I could have gotten by with a BS-0. Same thing happens when I swap my 8" PBA set-rite chuck for my 5" collet chuck. Should have bought a 6" set-tru...
Sometimes bigger isn't better IMO, but those who assume you can't determine what work envelope you need/want will try to tell you differently. Oh, and let us know when you get your machines, as we love pics of everybody's new toys.
I do pistolsmithing and general hobby stuff and if the PM30 had been available when I decided to upgrade my bench mill, I'd have bought it in a heartbeat. I believe it to be a good compromise of cost/size/capability for what I do. The 935 knee mill is easier to do some operations on, but I could have saved a bunch of money that could have gone for other things had the PM30 been available. I know of custom pistolsmiths building $4-6k 1911s on bench mills. And while I can think of a few things that I'd find easier to set up on a mill with a larger table, I manage OK with what I have.
I don't need a 1340 lathe for pistolsmithing from a size perspective, but I wanted a quality Taiwan-made lathe as I have need of sub-thou dimensions on some things so I 'bit the bullet' so to speak and went for the best lathe I could afford.
I run a 5" mill vise on my 9x35 table and find it to be a good size for what I do. I have been told that the Homge vise that Matt sells is pretty good stuff, so that is what I'd get if I was shoping for a vise for a PM30.
I also have a 6" rotary table that can be a bit small for some things, but again I manage. Every time I think I want a larger rotary table I go pick up my BS-1 dividing head and quickly change my mind. I'm pretty sure I could have gotten by with a BS-0. Same thing happens when I swap my 8" PBA set-rite chuck for my 5" collet chuck. Should have bought a 6" set-tru...
Sometimes bigger isn't better IMO, but those who assume you can't determine what work envelope you need/want will try to tell you differently. Oh, and let us know when you get your machines, as we love pics of everybody's new toys.
Good choice of machines. I have the PM-30MV with DRO and love it. Have 4" Kurt vise and it is OK for 90 percent of what I do. The rest of the time I wish it was a 6". Keeping my eye out for one. you will need a good rotary table. I went with Grizzly H7527 with dividing plates. I like the 4 slot table better than 3.
Before you lock in the 1236 Look at the PM 1228VF-LB. It is around the same price and size. Only weighs 1/2 the weight, which may be a consideration and is variable speed. I got that instead of the 1236 along with 4 jaw chuck and drill chuck and Quick Change Tool Post. Love it. Skipped the DRO on the lathe and used money for tooling. Going old school with Dial Indicators. Google Frank Hoose on you tube for a multi part series on the 1228. Some good ideas that applies to either lathe.
You set a budget, but that will only get you machines that spin around. The tooling will add several thousand dollars. I retired 3 monthes ago and started my shop over the last couple of years. Probably around $15K all together and I am looking for a surface grinder. The machines will only turn out work as good as the tooling, indicators and material you use. Right off the bat you will need a really good machinist level. I got a Starrett 6" for $45 on EBAY. The lathe MUST be straight, level and not twisted or you will be cutting all sorts of weird things if you go over several inches long. The mill will run pretty good right until it falls over on it's side. It has to be trammed and that will cost you at least $50 for a cheapo indicator and collet to hold it. And that is before you cut your first piece of metal. You need collet sets, end mills, HSS bits (and a grinder to sharpen them), fly cutter, 123 blocks, parallels, dial indicators, micrometers, drills, reams, Jo Blocks,and the list goes on.
Bought a lot of Shars tooling. Pretty decent stuff for price. But the Mic's are Brown and Sharp, Starrett and Mitutoyo. Go with HSS mills and bits. Carbide Insert is much easier but EXPENSIVE. EBAY is your new best friend. Reserch everything 3 times and check the blogs. Let it sit there untill you absolutly need it or it shows up at a price you can't turn down. Don't throw ANY metal away. Let it sit there for awhile. You will be surprised what you can make with it.
Think of it like a welder. You get a good quality machine for $3-4K and you burn $300 in rods each month.
Happy Chip Making!!!!
Before you lock in the 1236 Look at the PM 1228VF-LB. It is around the same price and size. Only weighs 1/2 the weight, which may be a consideration and is variable speed. I got that instead of the 1236 along with 4 jaw chuck and drill chuck and Quick Change Tool Post. Love it. Skipped the DRO on the lathe and used money for tooling. Going old school with Dial Indicators. Google Frank Hoose on you tube for a multi part series on the 1228. Some good ideas that applies to either lathe.
You set a budget, but that will only get you machines that spin around. The tooling will add several thousand dollars. I retired 3 monthes ago and started my shop over the last couple of years. Probably around $15K all together and I am looking for a surface grinder. The machines will only turn out work as good as the tooling, indicators and material you use. Right off the bat you will need a really good machinist level. I got a Starrett 6" for $45 on EBAY. The lathe MUST be straight, level and not twisted or you will be cutting all sorts of weird things if you go over several inches long. The mill will run pretty good right until it falls over on it's side. It has to be trammed and that will cost you at least $50 for a cheapo indicator and collet to hold it. And that is before you cut your first piece of metal. You need collet sets, end mills, HSS bits (and a grinder to sharpen them), fly cutter, 123 blocks, parallels, dial indicators, micrometers, drills, reams, Jo Blocks,and the list goes on.
Bought a lot of Shars tooling. Pretty decent stuff for price. But the Mic's are Brown and Sharp, Starrett and Mitutoyo. Go with HSS mills and bits. Carbide Insert is much easier but EXPENSIVE. EBAY is your new best friend. Reserch everything 3 times and check the blogs. Let it sit there untill you absolutly need it or it shows up at a price you can't turn down. Don't throw ANY metal away. Let it sit there for awhile. You will be surprised what you can make with it.
Think of it like a welder. You get a good quality machine for $3-4K and you burn $300 in rods each month.
Happy Chip Making!!!!
I’d second the mill comment. My first mill was a PM 25. The service I received from PM was
outstanding. However I out grew the mill. Really looked into the biggest bench mill. After figuring up the cost I decided to hunt a used knee mill. My Lagun fully equipped after I set it up was a bit over 6k but I’m am satisfied with it.
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outstanding. However I out grew the mill. Really looked into the biggest bench mill. After figuring up the cost I decided to hunt a used knee mill. My Lagun fully equipped after I set it up was a bit over 6k but I’m am satisfied with it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just a thought, being you do not have specific ideas what you will be doing on the machines you mentioned might be a thought to cut out a cardboard model of the mill table and do the same with the lathe bed then sit down and think about possible work you have done or may do and see how it fits the machines. Its what I did just to see the size prospective of the machines. I guess it made me get familiar with them because I had to look up the sizes of the parts and there travels. Kind of gave me a hands on idea of what to expect without trying to find someone with like equipment. Better you would be to visit someone that had that size or there about machines.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,422
I would take a Taiwanese lathe over a Chinese lathe any day. The 1236T has a thicker walled spindle running in precision Nachi bearings; this will tell over the years. @Titanium Knurler and @wildo have this lathe; maybe they'll chime in.
While you are thinking over your options, consider spending $50-100 on relevant books, and browse this forum of course. Read a couple of instruction manuals. For instance, you can learn the best way (for you) to move in and level machinery. Consider whether you might prefer a 3-phase lathe, and the reason why. Do you know what collets are and what your options for using them are? Do you know the difference between drilling, boring and reaming? Do you know why the compound is set to 29.5-30 degrees when turning threads? Your machinery won't be as smart as you, it's going to expect you to tell it what to do! : ) If your budget allows, you'll probably be more pleased if you buy Taiwanese instead of Chinese. I'm only about 6 months ahead of you on this "adventure", but I'm growing more sophisticated in it by the week, as you will (if your statement that you have 0-experience in this area is true). Enjoy..
Bill_729
BC, Machines look nice in catalogs. Mikey has a good point. Try and visit a machine machine shop in your area. There are a lot of friendly machinists that will show you around their shop. This can give you a better idea of what to purchase. Al
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 602
I think I agree mostly, though the part about not buying a 14" lathe when you generally turn under 1.5" diameter and 12" in length seemed like slightly flawed logic. By applying that, the only thing people really need is a 7x14" lathe because it will fit both of those dimensions. The difference is a 14" will be heavier, stronger, and more rigid, allowing you to cut those smaller pieces faster and more accurately, and when that task that comes up needing 13" diameter, a 2" spindle bore, or 36" between centers, you are already equipped to handle it.
I have one of the smaller machines (1030) and even though it is rare that I turn something more than 1.5" OD, there are several things I wanted to do but couldn't because they needed something a bit larger to fit.